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I've just finished the stitching on my first messenger bag and am wanting to use this great big bottle of eco flo mahogany gel antique to color it. I've been reading a lot about issues with water getting to the color depending on finish, so I figured I'd run my planned process by you guys before jumping in. I've been making holsters for some time, using fiebings spirit dyes and leather sheen to finish with good results, but water based is a new game for me.

The plan is to use the antique, rub in real good, let dry for a day and then burnish the edges with saddle soap, then finish by rubbing in kiwi neutral shoe polish all over. Will this keep the color in place, so long as I occasionally do upkeep on the polish? I'm in Washington state, so the water resistance is pretty important.

Thanky,

-Dave

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Test it out first.

I know what you mean about the wet weather up here. Infact its raining right now lol.

I would try your technique out first on some scrap if you have it and see how it works out. The biggest concern I would have is the anitque is more of a stain I guess but they dont penetrate the leather like dye does. I would definatly think of some kind of sealer like tan kote or similer then once thats dry put your wax on top of that.

Im sure some others on here have experimented with this so hopefully they will chime in.

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Hello,

I am not an expert, but in my experience you need to die your leather (unless you want the natural look) and then seal it really good before using the eco flo gel antiques. From what I understand the traditional way to do "Sheridan" antique is to dye, oil, sealer/resist, antique, and seal/resist again. I'm in the middle of doing some experiments on some circle cutouts to test Bee Natural saddle oil and RTC finish over Eco Flo Dye. Unfortunately you have to wait a long time in between your experiments to let everything dry!

I've used the Eco Flo "Super Sheen" as a resist successfully, but I'm not sure I'd use it for outdoor gear. I think you are better off using a natural oil/wax based finish that will let some oils penetrate the leather for years of upkeep. The Eco flo super shene acts like an acrylic paint and (I'm guessing) will resist any additional oil later on.

When I have successfully used the gel antique has been with practice pieces (Keychains, drink coasters, etc). I've used dye, let it dry for 8 hours or so, applied super shene liberally, let that dry for 8 hours or so, then apply antique gel liberally. Usually a damp cloth is needed to wipe away all the gel and help it penetrate the tooling stamps/cuts. Let this dry for several hours and then hit it with the super shene again to seal in the antique.

~Ken

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One of the products that I have been experimenting with is a boot treatment that I used when I was a logger. I lived in Ketchikan, Alaska ( It rains A LOT ). Its called Huberd's shoe grease. www.huberds.com . I have had great success so far with it. It goes on thick but slowly absorbs into the leather, till there is no trace of it. One thing to be wary of is it will darken the leather depending on what stain or dye you are using. I have used it on my labs collar, and on service harness as well and the water just does not absorb into the leather. You will have to reapply, but that is dependent on how much use the item gets. My boots were every few weeks, but I also like to err on the side of caution, especially when my feet were at stake. Will keep you posted on how other items i use it on turn out.

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