Australian saddle

[Onsite Tack]

I have my first Australian saddle in for repair. It has a pommel and cantle, so I guess I would call it a western type. There are two billets - one goes over the saddle and can be pulled back and forth. The other is made of 2 separate straps that disappear up into the saddle (I haven't opened it up yet). If anyone is familiar with these saddles, please let me know any particular challenges I might face.

Also, what leather should I use to make a replacement billet for the straps that run up under the saddle? It is a black saddle, by the way.

Many thanks.

Kathy

[barra]

Kathy. The strap going over the top and probably going thru slots in the flap is for a Bates rig (somehow called a tackleberry in some circles). The straps disappearing into the saddle are the girth points/billets/straps. From your description it is sounding to me that the saddle is serge wool lined and not shearling. If this is correct the padding is called the panel. there should be a row of stitches that stitch the panel to the front edge of the flap (fender) going from one side, around the pommel and finishing on the othe side of the flap. Snip these stitches and the front will drop down. the front of the tree should sit in little pockets on the top of the panel (pull the panel free). This should give you access to where the girth points/straps/billets are stitched to webbing cross straps that forms the seat foundation. The old straps can be snipped off and new ones made and stitched on with good stout thread. Normally a roll your own thread about 6 ply number 2 common hemp is made. You can get by with stout nylon cord (not thread). These straps need to be good and strong as it is the lifeline between saddle and girth.

Use good harness/bridle or saddle skirting I guess to make new straps from along the back of the hide. If you can get it you can use chrome tanned buffalo. Two other alternatives.

1. use the heaviest leather you can get and if not as heavy as the old straps, line the straps with nylon webbing like seat belt webbing that is already the width of the straps. punch holes in the straps before lining and when stitched use a hot poker to go thru the nylon webbibg, a fine tipped soldering iron will do but watch those fumes.

2. forget the girth straps all together and just use a tackleberry.

This is actually a relatively easy job.

I will try and put together some more info for you.

Barra

Edited January 13, 2008 by barra

[wolvenstien]

i dont know anything about saddles, but welcome to the board.

[Onsite Tack]

Barra, thank you very much.

On the Tackleberry rig - is it really safe enough to use just that? Could I recommend this to the client?

Kathy

[barra]

Kathy. The tackleberry would be safe enough. With the popularity of hybrid style western/Aussie stock saddles here in Oz the bates/tackleberry style rig is fairly common. The rigging style was developed here so that in outback cattle camps, a stockman could continue to ride even when the girth points had progressed to the point of no return. Most cattle stations are so remote that it would be a long time until a stockman could visit a saddler. Unless the stockman was adept at saddle repair, once the girth points were shot and without a bates rig that saddle was useless.

Again if the client wants the points replaced it is a fairly easy job. One other point. I was taught to stitch on girth points so that the flesh side of the point was facing the flesh side of the flap (I know this seems upside down). The reasoning behind this is so that the stronger grain side of the point/stral is against the buckle bar. The same with stirrup leathers, the buckle is stitched on by turning the grain over the buckle. This is not done on dressage leathers tho as they want the grain side visible for arty farty effect.

The girth points were more than likely machine stitched onto the webbing cross strap before assembly. To re machine stitch is now impossible. When we attached new girth points, the holes for stitching were pre punched out with a tiny (number 1 round punch) instead of using an awl for each stitch. About 5 holes each side were punched about 1/4 inch apart and the strap was back stitched to the webbing.

If you could post a pic it would be most useful.

Barra