Holster Presses:

[Pounder]

Recently been thinking of adding a holster press as the need is rising. But what to choose? Space is limited in the shop so a 20 ton jack press is out of the question and not sure why anyone would need one but to each his own. Is there a significant difference between the "taco" style verses the "flat press" style holster presses currently available. They appear to accomplish the same principal but what about sight channel preparation, etc.?

Really looking for some of you holster makers to chime in on this one.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

[Red Cent]

What is a taco or a flat press? I have some mental pictures.

[Pounder]

A taco press as I have been told it is called basically folds like a book trapping the weapon and leather between the bookends. A flat press is a small horizontal table with a plate on the top and bottom that can be pressed together and clamped trapping the weapon and leather between the two plates. The Blue

Gun Store offers these different styles and I was wondering if one has any better qualities than the other.

[Shooter McGavin]

I bought a 6 ton A-frame press from Harbor freight, a couple of pieces of 1" 40 duro gum rubber from Grainger, and a couple of 1/4" tool steel plates from a local metal supplier and made my own. Total investment around $150 and worth every penny.

[Oldtoolsniper]

I built mine all from scrap steel. Added a 20 ton jack and it's one of the most used tools I have. That press solves a lot of problems and I can emboss about any size stamp that's out there plus I can use it as a clicker. The taco is pretty limited in scope.

[JLSleather]

Yeah, I have one of those 20-ton HF things. I like the space usage, actually -- 3 square feet of floor space is better than losing ANY counter / bench space. No, you don't need 20 tons, but at one point the 20 ton was $50 LESS than the 12-ton, so ....

[Pounder]

Thanks for the insight, appears I have a trip to HF in the near future.

[Oldtoolsniper]

I have not pressed holsters with mine since I use a vacuum bag for veneering for that. For leather working a veneer vacuum press is even more limited, however in my case I already have it for veneer work.

[Oldtoolsniper]

Here is a picture of my junkyard press. Above the two by four is the top tube welded solid, the bar below the two by four moves. I did this so I could get a feel for the amount of pressure I am applying. When I crushing the 2x4 I figure I've pretty much pressed into the leather whatever I'm pressing. The 2x4 is sort of a redneck safety valve, before I break a die the wood should crush.

The springs attach to nuts welded on the uprights, the springs were 50 cents each at a garage sale.

The square tube is 2" and fits inside a 2" trailer hitch socket. The socket that you weld on costs $9.99 for the tube at Fleet Farm. I sawed it in half that's why you see the big lip on one side, it's the flange on the back of the hitch receptacle. I used this because it was available local and it fits over the 2" square tube. That is the part directly above and below the jack that moves up and down.

I did not know if it would work or not when I built it. Took about two hours to stick together and it was worth it. I keep thinking I'll sandblast it and paint it but then I just keep on using it so I never get around to making it pretty. I have access to welders so that part was simple. It's still not finish welded as it was only a test. My point it that it only has to work it does not need to be perfect and it is by no means a precision tool.

I used a twenty ton jack because it was on clearance for $20.00. With the top bar under the 2x4 movable I can fit whatever size jack I want in there, just drill a hole and bolt the bar in place or in my case rip a 2x whatever down to the size of safety block I need. The jack is held in place by friction or spring pressure, it's not welded or mounted in place. I can take it out to jack up the pickup if need be.

If you can make a rectangle or square frame you can make a press.

[Pounder]

Great picture and advice Oldtoolsniper, definitely something to consider especially since it appears to not take a lot of space.

[Oldtoolsniper]

Here was the dumb thing I did. It's 11 7/8" wide. I was not thinking about dimensions as much as the steel I had in the scrap pile. So you go down to the local steel boutique and guess what. A 12" chunk of steel in whatever thickness you want is there to buy pre cut. Yeah that 1/8" makes a big difference in making things simple. I know better too! I'm to lazy to make another one right yet but it would be faster than grinding that 1/8" off my plates.

I also bought some corion (not sure on the spelling) trivets from the pots and pans section. It's the hard plastic countertop stuff. It's super smooth on one side so I can smoosh leather down nice and smooth after I case it. It's fun to play with, I even do my 1" critter stamps with it. Need a round cutter? Exhaust pipe comes in lots of round sizes as does electrical conduit. Twenty tons of pressure will make it cut. Need to laminate some exotic skin to a pice of leather prior to doing an inlay, this tool is your friend.

Beware I have a chocolate lab hair producing machine. The hair will imprint the leather on those flat corion plates.

Edited August 4, 2015 by Oldtoolsniper