TXJhawk

I am looking for some better roller buckles. I am currently using 1 1/2" napa buckles and I like the syle but would like a different finish. I would like either a nickle plate or stainless if the price is right. Anyone have a good source for this type of buckle? thanks

I have been making holsters primarily for glocks and am now starting to get some requests for 1911's. Seems like everyone has a different brand 1911 so my question is in regards to 1911 molds. Do I have to buy a different 1911 mold for every brand or will one work for all of them? I know there are a few different sizes but for instance can I use Colts 1911 to make a holster for a Kimber? Thanks

I would be interested.

I have made a few belts now but only with poor quality leather. I have two side I Herman Oak on the way and was wondering if I should this leather for both sides. I have not been able to compare the difference in H.O. Leather vs Tandy but I do have high expectations. For those of you that make dual layered belts, do you buy cheaper leather for the the inside or just used your good leather for both sides? Thanks

I'm fairly new the leather work and learning on my own. I'm primarily making holsters and belts. For the belts I'm using two layers of 7-8 oz leaving the back side natural. I am having a few issues that I will list. Please give some suggestions that will help or give me the process you use. 1. My main issued is with the leather showing small cracks after dying and finishing. I have both rubbed and sprayed Fiebings dye and finish with Tan Coat or Resoline. What can I do to prevent the cracking? I have tried to add conditioner after dying but this seems to lift the dye, thus defeating the purpose of airbrushing and I still get the cracking. I have not purchased good leather yet and am using the best sides I can pick from Tandy. 2. When I try and contrast my stitching with the color I am staining, i dye first then stitch. Only bad part I am finding here is the marks left by the pressure foot and having the take these out from stained leather. Can I do this better? Not sure if my questions are clear but I hope to get some feedback. Thanks.

I recently purchased a boss and have been working with I for a week or so. My main frustration is when I double back to start and stop my stitch line. When I do this I am it getting a big mess on the back side and it loos terrible. I am sure it's a matter of havig the proper tension but the stitches look good once I get going. Any tips on how to improve the begining and ending would be greatly appreciated.

Michael, Thanks for help. What sealer do you prefer? Also do you find it worth the extra money to buy the higher grade Herman Oak? I think I'm just going to start with two sides so the cost difference isn't too much.

I have been looking for a while and found many answers already. Now is time to post a few questions of my own. Im new to leather working and learning much by trial an error (lots of errors). I'm now making primarily holsters and belts for guys at work. So far pretty pleased with my results but now that I am going to charge for some of my items I am expecting more out of myself. I'm getting ready to place an order from Hearman Oak and I'm excited to work with something other than Tandy products. Also just purchased a Boss and I will have it in two weeks. So my questions are as follows. 1. What weight should I order from Herman Oak? 2. Im expecting to get 8-9 oz and if that is the case should I line my belts with two layers of heavy weight or line with a lower weight? 3. What is the best way to finish without having dye come off on your clothes. I have tried Resoline but not too crazy about the high gloss. Also tried he Tan coat but still getting some bleeding from the belt. 4. Should I apply conditioner before or after the sealer? Thanks in advance and I'm sure I will have more to follow.