paddle holsters

[kagekeeper]

i am a big fan of the paddle holster since i don't always wear a belt and like to be able to remove my weapon depending where I'm going. i have a full sized Sig pro 2340 and would like any suggestions as to how to formulate a comfortable paddle that will still lock in place once inserted. also any help as to how to get the best molding on my weapon for a professional look. i am new to all this and am afraid i may be taking on more than i can chew, having VERY limited tools and NO presses or anything for the look i want to get.

[Randyc]

i am a big fan of the paddle holster since i don't always wear a belt and like to be able to remove my weapon depending where I'm going. i have a full sized Sig pro 2340 and would like any suggestions as to how to formulate a comfortable paddle that will still lock in place once inserted. also any help as to how to get the best molding on my weapon for a professional look. i am new to all this and am afraid i may be taking on more than i can chew, having VERY limited tools and NO presses or anything for the look i want to get.

Kagekeeper,

First off welcome to the forum!

In my humble opinion, designing and building a paddle holster is a pretty lofty undertaking for a first holster project. I guess the most difficult part would designing a paddle that would be both secure and comfortable. You could possibly obtain some kydex, then cover the kydex with leather. Another option may be to use spring steel covered with leather. Before I started building my own holsters and now building holsters for others, I've used a couple different paddle holsters made by different large commercial holster manufactors. I did not feel comfortably safe with either holster without wearing a a good stout belt. I don't believe going beltless will provide the comfort and and retention needed while carrying a full size weapon. Now my suggestions, build a simipler design holster ie. Belt Slide, Inside Waist Band. Either of these 2 designs can be designed and built with clips or snap retention loops. Of course you would need to wear a belt with either design. Another option would be to get yourself a smaller weapon ie. airweight .38 subnose, Kahr or Keltek , Beretta Tomcat ect. and build yourself a pocket holster. This way you could be armed and not worry about wearing a belt to support a holster.

You can build your holster with minimal tools/supplies

Sharp Knife

Harness Needles

207/277/or 346 Thread

Stitch Groover

Stitch Marker

Edge Bevelar

Awl or drill press to make your holes

6/7, 7/8 or 8/9 oz. leather to make the holster. (Your Preference)

Stolhman Book on making leather holsters available at Tandy

I'm sure your friend Frog can help you out with some design ideas and leather work basics.

Study the postings on this forum and check out the holster/belt section of pistolsmith.com

Good luck and happy holster building.

Randy

[kagekeeper]

Kagekeeper,

First off welcome to the forum!

In my humble opinion, designing and building a paddle holster is a pretty lofty undertaking for a first holster project. I guess the most difficult part would designing a paddle that would be both secure and comfortable. You could possibly obtain some kydex, then cover the kydex with leather. Another option may be to use spring steel covered with leather. Before I started building my own holsters and now building holsters for others, I've used a couple different paddle holsters made by different large commercial holster manufactors. I did not feel comfortably safe with either holster without wearing a a good stout belt. I don't believe going beltless will provide the comfort and and retention needed while carrying a full size weapon. Now my suggestions, build a simipler design holster ie. Belt Slide, Inside Waist Band. Either of these 2 designs can be designed and built with clips or snap retention loops. Of course you would need to wear a belt with either design. Another option would be to get yourself a smaller weapon ie. airweight .38 subnose, Kahr or Keltek , Beretta Tomcat ect. and build yourself a pocket holster. This way you could be armed and not worry about wearing a belt to support a holster.

You can build your holster with minimal tools/supplies

Sharp Knife

Harness Needles

207/277/or 346 Thread

Stitch Groover

Stitch Marker

Edge Bevelar

Awl or drill press to make your holes

6/7, 7/8 or 8/9 oz. leather to make the holster. (Your Preference)

Stolhman Book on making leather holsters available at Tandy

I'm sure your friend Frog can help you out with some design ideas and leather work basics.

Study the postings on this forum and check out the holster/belt section of pistolsmith.com

Good luck and happy holster building.

Randy

RANDY,

thanxs...i actually have an old kydex that i figured i could do something w/ the paddle, took it to the shop today already and frog suggested the same about wrapping it. i thought it was cheating but still an option for sure. thanks again for the suggestions and encouragement.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Howdy kagekeeper.

Randyc is right about not wearing a belt with a paddle holster. It's not a good idea, and if you're gonna carry for long periods of time it will get just down right uncomforatable. When I make paddle holsters, I use kydex for mine, and attached it with two t-nuts reinforced with rawhide inside the throat piece. It took me a while to come up with this design. Needless to say my first attempt didn't come out quite like I planned. If I were you I would buy some low grade leather and make three or four holsters before you decide to try the paddle design.

For the needs you descibed, I would recommend an IWB to start with. It's easily removable, and when you're more comfortable making holsters and you want to build the paddle style, you can use the IWB as a basis for your pattern. You don't need a press to get good results on your holsters. I only use one to increase production. I know there are a lot of makers that still don't use them at all.if you don't want to use kydex for the design, leather is just fine, as long as you also add a snap loop to keep the holster in your pants when you draw. The paddle will give stability to the platform, and the loop will hold it in place.

Concerning the professional look, until you get a lot of experience, less is more. The more detail you try to add to the holster, the more you will add scars, marks and other imperfections to the project. When you're ready to mold your holster, dip it in warm water (with a drop of dish soap in it) just long enough to get damp. Leave it alone until it feels almost dry to the touch. Now use your fingers, thumbs, and knuckles to press the leather around the shape of your pistol. Step back for a few minute and do something else. When you come back to the project, take a look and decide where a few of the most destictive features are. Run a thin but smooth object along the edge of those features in only a few places to add some "sharpness to the look of the holster. Don't go overboard or you're probably gonna mess it up, and anyway less is more. Don't keep hitting the same spot for better definition either, or you will make multiple definition lines in one spot, making the project look messy. Just make one pass and leave it, good or bad. It doesn't have to look exactly like the gun, or even be a straight line. It just needs to look clean and simple and it will make a world of difference to the over all look of your holster.

[K-Man]

I've been using an adjustable kydex paddle on my holsters for a number of years. Was an easy adaptation IMO. Have made them for the small guns up to, and including, the larger/heavier style of guns. Kydex paddles do tend to push the holster out away from the body. An ideal choice of carry for women in most instances. They can be worn for short periods of time without a belt. Most folks I know use a paddle holster for either a quick trip somewhere near by or at the range. Beyond that, a belt would be recommended to use.

There are a number of ways to bone the holster and most use the way that's most comfortable for them and gives them the results they're satisfied with. The amount of definition desired is very subjective. You can often fix stray marks relatively easily with the use of a modeling tool.

[kagekeeper]

i will heed the advice of staying away from the paddle for now, since i used to carry my glock 27and was VERY light and comfortable. perhaps i will try for a belt holster. my next question is how to formulate a HIGH ride properly then? what thickness do i use and what if any concerns should i have putting the wet leather on my weapon?

thanks for all the great advice so far. LOVE Ur rigs!!!

Howdy kagekeeper.

Randyc is right about not wearing a belt with a paddle holster. It's not a good idea, and if you're gonna carry for long periods of time it will get just down right uncomforatable. When I make paddle holsters, I use kydex for mine, and attached it with two t-nuts reinforced with rawhide inside the throat piece. It took me a while to come up with this design. Needless to say my first attempt didn't come out quite like I planned. If I were you I would buy some low grade leather and make three or four holsters before you decide to try the paddle design.

For the needs you descibed, I would recommend an IWB to start with. It's easily removable, and when you're more comfortable making holsters and you want to build the paddle style, you can use the IWB as a basis for your pattern. You don't need a press to get good results on your holsters. I only use one to increase production. I know there are a lot of makers that still don't use them at all.if you don't want to use kydex for the design, leather is just fine, as long as you also add a snap loop to keep the holster in your pants when you draw. The paddle will give stability to the platform, and the loop will hold it in place.

Concerning the professional look, until you get a lot of experience, less is more. The more detail you try to add to the holster, the more you will add scars, marks and other imperfections to the project. When you're ready to mold your holster, dip it in warm water (with a drop of dish soap in it) just long enough to get damp. Leave it alone until it feels almost dry to the touch. Now use your fingers, thumbs, and knuckles to press the leather around the shape of your pistol. Step back for a few minute and do something else. When you come back to the project, take a look and decide where a few of the most destictive features are. Run a thin but smooth object along the edge of those features in only a few places to add some "sharpness to the look of the holster. Don't go overboard or you're probably gonna mess it up, and anyway less is more. Don't keep hitting the same spot for better definition either, or you will make multiple definition lines in one spot, making the project look messy. Just make one pass and leave it, good or bad. It doesn't have to look exactly like the gun, or even be a straight line. It just needs to look clean and simple and it will make a world of difference to the over all look of your holster.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

There are some good instructions on here by different folks on how to make a pattern, so first check that out. Next, try drawing a belt onto your pattern paper and putting the gun on top of it at the ride height you want. Then figure out a design that will make that happen. It's gonna take a while to figure out how to do stuff, but that's good. You might come up with a better way and tell us so we can improve .

Concerning the molding, a lot of people use saran wrap around their pistol before they mold it, and then they oil and clean it after the molding is finished. I would recommend going that route.

As forthe leather weight, I would start out using what you've already got and see how it performs. If you don't have anything yet, I would suggest some 7/8 oz leather as a starting point, or some 8/9 if you're really worried about stiffness (but you'll have a harder time working with this weight).