Fiebings Oil Dye & Bag Kote
Posted 23 March 2009 - 12:56 PM
If I want the project to remain Light Brown what should I use as a final coat or will all of the final coat products darken. If I want Light Brown should I start out maybe using Saddle Tan?
Thanks for your input.
Certified Firearms Instructor
Posted 13 April 2009 - 05:37 AM
Personally, I have switched over to spirit-based dyes, and have been diluting those with isopropyl alcohol for a little better control in getting the shading that I want. I've also been dying by immersion rather than by surface application methods. I like the deeper color penetration that this provides.
On a recent project I was using several weights of veg-tanned leather (9-oz. belt, 7-8 oz holster with 3 oz. lining, 6 oz. pouch), all from different hides. Customer wanted a dark tan shade. After some experimentation on small pieces cut from the stock to be used, I ended up with a dye mixture made up using a single 4-oz. bottle of Fiebings British Tan diluted with about 1.5 pints of isopropyl alcohol. The pouch took one application, the holster took two, and the belt took three, at which point I had a good color match when dried. Final finish of neatsfoot oil, allowed to settle in overnight, followed by the Bag Kote, and the end result was a very nice dark tan right on the verge of a light brown. I still have that batch of dye, with enough left for several more similar projects, so the cost per piece is acceptable ($5 for small bottle of dye and about $3 worth of alcohol, $8 total for enough to dye a dozen pieces or more).
I seldom go to this much effort for any single project, but this customer has given me his business for a long time so I wanted to make him happy.
For my usual production I stick with classic oiled tan (undyed), dark cordovan brown, and black. These are easy to repeat, so it speeds up the whole process considerably for general production.
serious equipment for serious business, since 1972
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