ArtD
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Now I’m really confused. I checked both the feed cam timing and the top feed cam timing against the engineers manual that I downloaded from here and my machine isn’t even close to either standard setting. I didn’t actually make the adjustments but was able to make as assessment based on the manual indicating the position of certain screws when properly adjusted. And yet it works, although I still have the pitch problem. Is it possible the engineers manual from Juki has changed in recent years. What am I getting wrong here? Thanks. Art https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=123068
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I’m set at a 4mm stitch. I read the engineering manual and compare the 1341 to the 1508 sitting next to it and have the following observations. 1. the feed dog sits below the needle plate when the walking foot makes contact. 2. The top feed would seem to be out of adjustment. The needle, walking foot and top of the needle plate are all supposed to meet at the same point when certain pre-conditions are set. They meet, sort of, when the walking shoe makes contact with the feed dog below the needle plate. If I align the walking foot and the outside feet at the needle plate, the needle is nearly 3/16” above this. My question for anyone who knows, if I adjust the top feed, do I need to also adjust the timing? Thanks. Art
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I’m using the standard feed dog and a smooth walking foot, the same as on the 1508.
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I’m using a 19 round point needle with 92 thread. Let me add that I’m also disappointed with how it climbs compared to my 1508 flatbed. Maybe my expectations are too high.
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I recently purchased a Juki 1341 from a highly regarded dealer who advertises here, and the machine runs exceptionally well except in the case of sewing waxed canvas. Although I get an even pitch with all other materials (including a single sheet of copier paper) in all thickness and at all stitch lengths, the stitches in waxed 12 ounce canvas vary on an irregular basis. This happens whether I am using thread or not and whether I am sewing multiple layers or a single layer. I’ve check adjustments and they all seem spot on. Hoping someone here might have a suggestion of how to address this. I know I’m not sewing leather, although waxed canvas is often compared to leather. My apologies if this is an inappropriate post. Art yy
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Let me ask the question another way. Is it the balancer’s job to reduce vibration, or is it meant as a counterweight in the cycle of producing a stitch. In other words, if I position it to minimize vibration, and this position is different than what is spelled out in the engineering manual, am I introducing a problem?
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I’m looking to buy a bell skiver. The Atlas Levy model is $685 less than the Techsew model, shipping included. Any reason I shouldn’t save $685? Does Techsew add any value to the machine worth noting? Thanks, Art
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I’ve been running my Juki 1508 at higher speeds lately and me it seemed to me to have quite a bit of shake at the upper end. So I checked out the engineer’s manual for this machine. It calls for the balancer screw to be in line with the top cam screw (page 26). These weren’t aligned on my machine, so I made the adjustment but it only got rougher. So I kept moving the balance weight in small increments until the machine seemed to smooth out. It’s better now although not perfect, and I imagine there will always be some vibration in a walking foot machine. My question is this: Is there a proven methodology for determining the best position for the balance cam, or is it really just make incremental adjustments until it feels good? I bought this machine new, so it’s not like someone was in the machine and set it up differently than the engineer’s manual. Is it possible the engineer’s manual is wrong? Thanks, Art
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I purchased the 750SL several weeks ago and have been running it hard since then. It easily handles three layers of 9 ounce Latigo, even when I just tap the pedal to advance it one stitch. My 1 hp Consew motor struggled with this and often just stopped. The real challenge for me is sewing relatively slowly through 7 layers of 21 ounce duck canvas. The Consew always bogged down, but the Kinedyne handles it without any sign of struggle, even with a 23 needle. By the way, this is on a Juli 1508NS. What I really like about it is that the needle stops pretty much on a dime when I take my foot off the pedal when sewing fast. My other motors seem to give way to momentum and allow the machine to sew up to three stitches before coming to a halt. It’s as if there is a brake in the motor. I can’t speak to durability since I’ve had it such a short time, but based on the first few weeks of use, I highly recommend this an an alternative to a speed reducer, especially given how well the needle positioner works.