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LMullins

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Everything posted by LMullins

  1. I just opened up half of it, and it appears to me that some of the gears are a little chewed up (although very accessible.) I gave it a decent cleaning and the previous grease was like tar.. but now it's oiled and running quite smooth. I'll be opening up the other half soon and doing the same thing, along with photos of the condition. As far as what I'll do with it, I'm not sure! I'm going to be driving 7 hours round trip today for a Landis 30 Splitter, so I will probably pass this machine on. No idea where to price, but let me know if you'd still be interested! It does work, and it splits quite nice. Just could use some more TLC
  2. Yessir, that is correct. I'm on very good terms with my local shops. I've helped them out and they've helped me. I'm a sucker for Landis stuff but if this works, it'd be a shame not to put it back in service once again. I will say, I'm surprised at how thin it split, usually I see these machines have a lot of trouble getting that low. Can't imagine what it will be like with a sharpened blade and oil.
  3. Just gave it a quick test with no oil, no adjustment, and it split 8oz right down to 1-2oz without marks. Now I'm even more excited to pop it open and see if you are correct in your hypothesis
  4. I haven't opened it up yet, but I kind of doubt his claim... the skiver does not spin with the crank, but it DOES spin by hand with mild friction. I'll be opening it up tomorrow.
  5. Hey Folks, Let's see some images first! anyway, I've been seeking a Landis Model 30 Splitter for sometime now and decided I'd go to my local shoe repair shops and find it in person; that's how I got my 5-in-1 after all. Well, one guy brought out this machine and said "This machine is missing the skiver gears but the splitter itself works." And gave it to me for free. There is a sticker that reads "Richard Hess - Magstadt Stuttgart" Only problem is that I don't know anything about it, and not much about it seems to come up on the internet. I'm hoping somebody who knows more than I can chime in and let me know. To be honest, I wouldn't be interested in keeping it around. thank you for your time. I'm still on the lookout for a decent Landis Splitter, but in the meantime maybe I'll clean it up
  6. Hey Folks, I'm really interested in picking up a Landis Splitter. Where could I find one? Thanks
  7. Thank you for your input once again Dwight! This seems like a really clever solution to this problem. I'll have to consider trying this out
  8. I am trying to get both sides even for a stitchline. The two wet-formed faces are for different projects. I'm attempting symmetry, but can't quite get them figured out. I'm looking to get even edges so I can come in with wing dividers lined up to the edge to get equal distance around the wet form. hope this makes some kind of sense, thank you
  9. Hey Folks I'm having a lot of trouble over here.. I've wet molded two sheathes and I just can't get them to line up correctly. I've taken them to the belt sander to try and line them up but I can't for the life of me get it right. I'd usually get wing dividers and run them along the side of the project for an accurate line but this object is round and there's no hard edge to follow.. and I don't want to leave scratch marks along the inside surface. what can I do here? Here is the project I'm working on
  10. I picked up 346 thread and I am having problems with it. Both have been trouble but once I dial it in, the knot shows visibly in the middle in an ugly fashion. Tension on the top stitch doesn't seem too great, so I assume it's the bottom?
  11. Hey everyone. Just picked up an older Tippmann Boss and been having trouble getting it where I want it. I cleaned and oiled it, and gave it a new needle as well as new thread (346 Tandy.) I just cannot get the tension where I want and as such, I am turning to the experienced for advice. I can get kinda close but I'm either getting loops up top, or below. Is it top tension? Or bottom? this is my first experience with a machine and I've been following the online guides to some success but can't quite iron it out. Photo Examples
  12. Just picked it up and yep! This is perfect. thank you for your suggestion. Now to just figure out how to get the tension correct for the backside..
  13. That stitching does look pretty nice. That is 346? I may have to try it out and see how it goes with my Tippmann. maybe a slight bit thicker. where do you get your thread from? I was thinking of running to Tandy today and just getting some test thread
  14. Any examples of those belts? Would love to see while I attempt to tension this machine correctly. it's an older cast model. Came with everything. Metal plate, 3 bobbins, VHS, Manual, all the different feet, needles, even a full spool of 277 thread. Pretty neat. I think I may want to go up in thread size though.
  15. This is my biggest concern. I'm usually doing my belts in 1mm thread but I will occasionally dip to 0.8mm. My usual belt style, so I'd have to see how the smaller thread would translate. I do appreciate the information. Although it does seem like a lot of people either really like them or completely disregard them.
  16. Hey folks, I'm new to the machinery side of leatherwork (as well as to this forum) and I'm looking for advice on a purchase. Nearby, someone is selling a complete, working used Tippmann Boss machine for $350. My main market is work belts and gunbelts in the 12-16oz range. I'm wondering if this would be a good purchase. I've been hand-stitching for years now and wondering if this may be a good decision to make a leap into the machine stitch side of leather. I'm not incredibly knowledgeable, so please inform me. Thanks
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