JoshDuvall

I had noticed this too in my tooling once before. Mine mainly showed up after I applied antique and there was a definate line around my beveling. Another thing that can cause this besides everything that has already been said is your leather could be too wet. When your leather is too wet it seems like beveling seems to "sponge" back out a bit after you strike your stamp leaving your knife line a little deeper than your beveling too. Try letting your leather sit just a bit longer before beveling. Atleast that worked for me when I was having problems.

I'm sorry I should have been more clear. I had used the search function and came up with plenty of posts on how to strop and to strop often throughout a project but none that really covered my particular question on how often to strop. I apologize for any inconvenience.

Thanks for the responses. It's wickett and Craig 8oz skirting. I have some horsebutt from Springfield leather. The 6-7oz, would this be too thick for the strop? I know it definitely would be in cowhide but didn't know in horse since it seems to be "more dense". I only strop when I start to feel the blade drag I just didn't know if 5-7 short cuts seemed like it was "dulling" out rather quickly and maybe I was doing something wrong when stropping.

Forgive me if this has been asked already (I did a search but came up with nothing). I know people say they strop their swivel knife blades often throughout a carving but how often. I find myself stropping about every 5-7 cuts. This seems too often to me but I'm also still new to carving. So about how often do you strop yours throughout a project? Also I'm using a piece of card stock and white jewelery rouge. Am I doing something wrong or does this sound about right? It's a Barry King knife and after stropping it cuts beautifully. Smooth as silk. It just doesn't seem to last that long before I feel I need to strop again.

I'm building my first sprung solo seat and had a question about making a pattern for the "top" of the seat and lining up the holes for lacing. I know the pattern for the top will be slightly different than the pattern that covers the bottom of the seat pan but how do I make sure I have the same amount of holes w/ the same spacing? How do you make your pattern for your top cover that covers the foam? Thank in advance, Josh

That would be perfect. Thank you

I was wondering if anybody had a XDm 9mm magazine that they could give me the measurements off of?

I tried the dipping thing and it helped to an extent. I tried baking at a little higher temp and that made a huge difference. But I think the majority of it was this hide. This hide is also a little more pale in color compared to what I usually get from wickett and Craig. But the higher temp made a huge difference. Also when I get a side in I start with the back and start working my way down toward the belly from there. Usually using the belly for attempts at new designs.

I've been using 50/50 resolene water mix but just brushing on about 3 coats. I mIght try dunking in the finish. I haven't had any problems but with this last hide my holsters have been losing alot of their stiffness after about a week or two. I'm thinking it might be the hide but it doesn't really seem flanky when I'm working with it.

Did I say something that I shouldn't have or asked a stupid question or is the joke just going way over my head? Sorry.

I was wondering how long before your holsters start softening up? And what method do y'all use to "bake" your holsters? Or do you at all? So far I've been dunking my holster in cool water for about 8 seconds, then moulding, then baking at about 125 degrees for 25 minutes and then letting the holster dry under a fan until completely dry. And it has worked good so far but this last hide I got from wickett and craig doesn't seem to be holding it's stiffness as long. Maybe it's just the hide but I'm still curious to know your process. Thanks in advance.

Have to give credit to Bruce for the design on this one. I thought I had a good design going only to look around at pictures and notice Bruce has been doing it for quite some time. Just a plain boned pancake. I have been doing so many exotics for customers lately it was nice to just do a plain holster. As always critiques are welcome. I'm thinking of using this picture for some new business cards.

I don't think I would see it as being cost effective when it came to guns that have an dummy gun available either. But, I could see it working for some guns that don't currently have dummies available. Although I don't get many requests for those yet.

I recently had a customer request a retention screw in his holster. I dont normally do retention screws because I dont really believe that a well formed holster needs one (other than maybe a shoulder holster or something). My question is where would you place it? Right behind the trigger guard or at the curve between the trigger guard and duster? Its an avenger type holster for a 1911 if that helps any. Also what exactly do yall use to make the actual retention screw? p.s. - I know this has been covered before but couldn't find it in the search feature

I was just curious as to what size edgers y'all use? I'm currently using a #1 from Weaver but just got a #3 and I'm not sure if I like how big it is. I know different companies size their edgers different but do you guys like the look of a more rounded edge or squared? p.s. - I'm using 7/8 oz leather