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DrGull

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Posts posted by DrGull

  6. Posted · Edited by DrGull · Report reply

    Every Tandy video by any of their instructors contains a line like: "the ceramic blades never need sharpening, but they should be stropped."

    Why?

    The ceramic making up those blades is an order of magnitude harder than white jeweler's rouge. Rubbing the ceramic blade with white rouge can have no impact on the ceramic blade.

    Is it just some kind of ritualistic thing?

  8. Posted · Report reply

    At Katsass' recommendation, I've been using Mop-n-glo. I think the two are nearly the same thing as Acrylic Resolene, but in bigger, cheaper, and probably less concentrated bottles.

    ***A note about acrylic waxes: There has been a good bit of discussion about them in saddle making, and the general consensus ( first hand reports from saddle makers) is that you can't oil through it. Other finishes allow a person to periodically condition the leather as needed, but once it's sealed with the acrylic, it's sealed. For carvings, this doesn't have much consequence, but for working items that need to be maintained, it could mean a shortened overall life of the product. I'm not saying don't use it, but be aware of what it does.***

    I believe Mop n Glow has a soap component. . . .. .

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I wanted to do a resist finish with the flower an scroll work with Fiebings British Tan followed by Eco-Flow Mahogany Antique gel. I figured it would give the carved portion a nice burnished look against a darker background. So I paitnted the flower and scrollwork British Tan followed by Super Sheen as a resist. The results were less than impresive: (see Wrong.jpg).

    post-11336-051325600 1345728968_thumb.jp

    Only the tip of the flower came out as it should. Super Sheen didn't resist anything.

    So what to do? I went online to Springfield to buy a product specifically for resist dying. I figured the problem with super sheen was that it was water soluable and so is the gel antique which must have simply pushed the super sheen out of the way. I was all ready to purchase the resist product when an idea occured. I make models as well as doing leathercraft. Modelers use Future floor finish for all sorts of things. Turns out a bottle of Future is simply a huge bottle of pure acrylic.

    Would Future make a good resist? It dries a hard acrylic gloss the gel antique should not be able to get through. So I gave it a try on another practice piece. First the british tan onver the flower and scrollwork, followed by a coat of Future. It worked perfectly (see Right.jpg):

    post-11336-034433200 1345729988_thumb.jp

    It also worked as an overall finish. I bent the leather severly and there was no cracking or "whiteing."

    So, give future a try. Like I said before, it's just a big bottle of pure acrylic gloss -- no soap or other ingredients. It is a good resist and a good overall coat -- its flexible and strong.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I would like to set some Pyarmid spots - the kind with two prongs. I have the pyramid rivet tool, but I don't know if that will help set the spots. Basically, I've never set spots before, do you have to punch the two holes? If that's the case I give up, no way I could ever punch that many holes at just the right spacing, etc. Thanks for any help on this.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    The Chaylor Fenelli inners from Springfield can be laced, I lay out the lacing slits with a thonging chisel. They can be laced or sewn by hand, below are pictures of one I made with a Chaylor Fenelli inner.

    Ken

    Ken:

    That's Quite Impressive, I don't know whaere you found the room. Maybe it varies from insert to insert, because the one I ordered didn't have any room for stiching, it would have cut off the cradit card slots.

    Thanks again for the pictures,

    ---Todd

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I still cut them from patterns I got somewhere in the 70's. Made to suit the standard wallet back. I usually cut them from 2 oz calf or goat. I'm including a photo of one of these 'installed'. This particular style is in brown goatskin with the removable photo case. Inexpensive to make. I usually just take a day every so often to cut and glue 10-20 of them so they're ready to go when needed. Send me a message if this is the style you were considering, and I'll send you the pattern.

    Oh, yeah .. it fits this type of wallet ...

    JLSLeather:

    I would Very Much like to have a copy of your pattern Dr.WWGull@GMail.com

    Thanks

    You did not list where you live. Chan Geer is going to be teaching in Portland Oregon next month. One of the things he will be teaching is wallet interiors design and construction.

    Contact me if interested.

    Aaron

    Aaron:

    Alas, I live in Denver. That sounds like a class I would like to attend.

    ---Todd

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I can tool wallet backs for practice for months, but there's nothing to put in them. I don't have a sweing machine so the Chaylor Finielli inserts are not a possibility. Idealy, I'd like to make my own from calfskin. So, does anyone know of a book that covers the making of the insides, or a source for "Tandy-like" insides that have encough room for hand sewing or lacing.

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