KB8UVM
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Posts posted by KB8UVM
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Hang it up in front of a fan or during the summer outside.... usually takes about twenty four hours....
I do the same thing. I put it in front of a fan over night for a couple nights. It still has a faint smell but only if you put it up to your nose.
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It's working now, everything is going black:)
Glad to hear it. What did you do to get it to work?
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Looks good and the color came out looking great.
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I'm no expert -- only on my first batch of vinegaroon and made just a few items with it, but the reason I use it is because once it is in the leather, it's there to stay. It won't wear off like a dye will. There are difficulties in using vinegaroon, but once you get the process down it's not too bad.
I agree with RobDude30 plus I've had as much problems with store bought dyes as I have had with Vinegaroon and the problems I've had with Vinegaroon was the leather being real old and abused and I was experimenting with it. The one big draw for me with Vinegaroon is it brings another level of homemade/handmade to my projects.
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I'm not expert but I have made a couple jars of Vinegaroon and it seems to work well for me. My first jar was as clear as water and my second jar was brown. They both seemed to work well so I mixed them together and so far so good.
On one project the leather wasn't turning as black as I wanted, more of a grey black so I gave the leather a bath in strong black coffee and then added the Vinegaroon again. That seemed to help for me. The leather needed more tanis (SP?) for the Vinegaroon to react.
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Looks really good for a rookie.
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I like the 2nd one. I'm looking to make one for my Cobra derringer, too and what you have is nearly perfect.
If I make one, I'd like to stitch 2 loops on the front to hold 2 additional shots.
Do yourself a favor and make the belt loop a lot wider then mine. Mine is to narrow and it allows the holster to flop to much.
As for the extra loops on the front, that sounds like a good idea. I'm planing on making a clip on ammo holder that will carry 6 extra rounds, I'll post pics if I ever get a chance to make it.
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Actually BillyMac I've seen this holster for a full size 1911. I don't think a heavier gun matters with this holster as long as it is longer. I'm guessing that a longer gun will have more friction and will handle the heavier gun.
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That looks great! How did you attach the snap loop... T-nut? Did you use a screw through the snap base? What size?
I'm trying to figure out the best hardware solution for that style of loop.
Thanks for the compliments.
I used a T-nut with a screw through the snap base and a star lock washer between the leather loop and the holster to help keep it from spinning. The T-nut and screw that I used was a 6-32x3/8 and I had to cut about 1/8" off of the end of the screw.
I've been wanting to try this hardware and finally had a chance.
Very nice looking. I don't usually like the look of rough out but that looks very clean and classy.
I make a holster with a belt loop like that and I sew it on, mainly because it's over the gun so I don't want hardware touching the pistol. I've used T nuts before for those when it won't touch the weapon. I use either size 10-24 I think. Maybe it was 8-32?
I have a question: When wearing that holster and during the draw is it very stable? I've thought about making something similar but have always been nervous about the weapon pushing down therefore pushing the belt up. Maybe I should just make one and try it for myself. It would make it a little thinner than having the strap center on the gun and easier than putting one on each side.
Thank you for your compliments.
When I have a loop over the gun I will either sew it on like you mentioned or I'll add another piece of leather over the face and sew it on and put the snap base between the leather and sometimes I'll glue a piece on the inside to cover the snap/T-nut base and shave it down very thin.
I've had the same concerns as you with this holster but with the rough out and the belt snug that single belt loop is holding great. I've been wearing it for the last 3 days with no problems. I've practiced drawing and re-holstering and I've had no problems. The draw is very clean and the holster stays in place. When re-holstering if I jam the gun in I will have to reposition the holster but it doesn't move much. If I have to jam it in a hurry I can leave it where it moves to because it's not that big of a deal. If I pay attention when holstering it doesn't move at all.
I was very surprised with this holster, it carries the pistol a lot better then I expected.
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Nice.
Can't possibly be a FIRST TRY, though. I'm throwing a B.S. flag on that play.
(My first holster was as ugly as homemade soap)
Does it have a channel for the front sight?
This is my first try at an IWB. I have made a few other holsters before this one, you can see them at my profile page.
Yes I do have a sight channel, I used a small dowel rod taped to the slide from the front sight to just shy of the ejection port.
As for my first holster every, here's how it looked.
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A friend of mine wants me to make him and IWB for is baby Glock. Before I can do that I had to make one for myself. Here's my first try, it's for a Kel-Tec P-11.
Suggestions, comments?
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That's a nice looking holster. I like the amount of boning you did, not to much and not to little.
I like the way it's adjustable depth and cant.
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You've got some nice looking holsters.
How well does that derringer ride in the pocket?
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Hi KB8UVM,
there are no dumb questions !
This sheath is especially made for different opportunities to carry the knife and to protect it completely.
regards, Fritz
Well they look really good and it looks like they will hold the knife very securely, great job.
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It looks nice--you got a very rich black and the form looks good--but I'm concerned about the exposed trigger
Thanks.
As for the exposed trigger, it has a cross bar safety and it's never carried cocked and locked. It's always in the half cocked position with the safety on.
I always cover the triggers but I found this design on a western shooting page and it grabbed me. Figured I would give it a try.
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I'll start off by saying that I love this forum. I have learned so much from reading everyone else's post.
The other day I was working on a holster for my derringer and I decided to make a batch of Vinegaroon for it. I followed the directions listed on this forum. I love how black the leather came out.
I'm glad I stumbled across the topic of vinegaroon, it adds another level of homemade to my projects.
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I make my single-layer belts of 9-10 oz. Hermann Oak sides. Standard width is 1.5" around the body tapered to 1" at the front for better comfort and to be less conspicuous. These work very well for light to medium handguns.
For heavier applications I line the body area with 4-5 oz. leather, which provides very good support for most applications.
For the heaviest applications I offer the same belt with the body area lined with 7-8 oz. leather. This will carry the heaviest handguns easily.
Many years ago as a cop I found that a new single-layer Sam Browne duty belt would last about a year or so in daily use, while a two-layer Sam Browne would give 3 to 5 years of good service. Cops carry much more gear on the belt than most folks do.
Lobo,
What do you mean Body area? Body area as in your body or the holster body?
I hate if this sounds stupid but I'm just trying to figure it out.
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Can I be your son?
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Sorry for not being very clear, let's see if this helps.
1 thickness layer all the way around the waist with a second layer added at the location of the holster (extending past the holster a few inches). NoahL you may be correct with it still sagging but I wear jeans with the belt loops rather close together and sagging hasn't been an issue with a single layer belt. What I'm trying to prevent is the holster top rolling outward. With a single layer belt I find myself cranking my belt tight to hold the top of the gun in close to me. When I have worn a double layer belt I wear it a lot looser and the top of the gun stays in close. I'm in need of a new belt and was just thinking of different ideas of making a belt stiff without having the bulk and stiffness all the way around me, just at the holster location.
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I would like to make a belt for carrying a concealed weapon. I have read several debates about single layer or 2 layers of leather. I plan on using 2 layers but my question is, has anyone tried making the second layer only where the weapon will be riding?
I was thinking of skiving a peace of leather that would go from 2 o'clock to 5 o'clock and carry the weapon at 3-4 o'clock.
Any ideas if this would work properly?
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Looks great.
Now for a dumb question. I've notice a lot of sheaths on here, including yours, looks like the leather almost covers the entire handle. Is there a reason for that? Does it hinder getting a good grip on the the knife handle?
I'm asking not to criticize just to learn.
But it does look really good.
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Great looking scabbard. I really like the open top and the carbon fiber inlay.
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Very nice. What do you use to cut the belt slots? They are very clean.
Thanks.
I use an old punch and wood chisel to cut the rough shape and then I use a dremel with a small sanding drum to clean them up.
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From one southern ohio boy to another, welcome.
Nice looking combo, real nice looking.
How Much Oil To Be Applied?
in How Do I Do That?
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Nika, I own one of Dwight's belts and he knows what he's talking about. His belt came out very nice and was comfortable to wear from day 1.