Bob A
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Posts posted by Bob A
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Where is this located? The add says "Waco-movable". If it's in or near Waco, I'd love to be able to look at what you have. Also, is the Juki a walking foot machine? Thanks
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I think your talking about T-nuts, pics in link below. I get mine from the hardware store.
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That look very nice.
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Thanks guys. I'll try sandwiching the t-nuts next time.
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Hey Bob, why not sandwich the t nuts between the wings?..
I've seen several done that way and it looks cleaner with the t-nut sandwiched. I just thought if the t-nut got damaged it would be easy to change this way. I don't know if there's any real need to worry about that or not, I never had it happen. Have you had any trouble with t-nuts getting damaged and needing to be changed?
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I made this one for a guy at work. It's an IWB for a 4" XD. I haven't posted anything in a long time and thought I would share. It's built with 8oz Wickett & Craig with Angelus light brown A.
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It looks pretty good, definitely better than my first holster. How does your belt attachment work, hard to tell from the pic? Is it just loops or do you have snaps?
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I use Angelus Satin acrylic finisher sprayed on with an airbrush and have had good luck with it. I usually make two light coats.
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I have been using the Angelus Satin acrylic finisher sprayed with an airbrush and it does very well for me, i don't like the very shiny look of others I've tried. I usually spray 2 light coats. I don't think it will be waterproof though. Here's a picture of a holster with the Angelus Satin.
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Bob,
Here's a picture showing how the chains cross and another showing the backside of my roller. I may switch the pedals around at some point so the big one is the motor control. It was made with stuff I had laying around, I'm sure there's a bunch of other ways the same thing could be done. I also could have bent the metal a little better but I didn't have a good way of bending it and it should be cut a little shorter but I wasn't too concerned. Maybe some day Ill pull it off and paint it and make it a little more finished (yea right).
I hope that helps.
Thanks. I think I'm going to try switch mine also. Seems like it would work better for me as the current set up just doesn't feel right.
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I'd be interested in seeing some more pictures of your set-up. Thanks for sharing.
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The holster looks good. I like the color and have been thinking about give the Tandy Pro Waterstain a try also. Do you cut it with something or just use it strait out of the bottle?
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http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44825#entry281907
This is a thread he has going in the suppliers section. It says he is still having issues and I think it also gave contact info if you need to get in touch. Hope this helps.
Bob
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Hi Bob,
For the majority of my black items I use Wickett & Craig drum dyed saddle skirting. Some of the sides I get from them are light on the back after being split so I use Fiebings Pro Oil Dye on the interior and the edges. After wetforming I use neetsfoot oil, and then after a day or so for it to absorb, a nice buffing with wool shearling and then my sealant is applied inside and out.
Hope that helps.
Dan
Thanks for the info.
Bob
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Shooter, Very nice work. If you don't mind me asking, what black dye are you using and how do you keep it from rubbing off onto guns on the interior? Thanks
Bob
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Thanks for the info Josh. Nice looking work by the way.
Bob
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I use Aussie on the outter/rough side of my pocket mags....
Does this tend to smooth the leather when you do this, or does it just absorb and keep the same texture?
Bob
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Thanks Guys. Most I've seen looked like there was no finish on them, but thought I would ask.
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I'm in the process of making a flesh out pocket holster and wondering what is the preferred method of finishing on a holster of this type. I want to keep the flesh side a little rough to help grab in the pocket, but should I use a finish of some sort? Thanks.
Bob
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I just recently pick one up too and it is much better than a utility knife for me. Now I just have to get good at sharpening it.
Bob
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If I were you, I would call Steve and ask what he recommends for what you want to do, he has been very helpful when I've called. I received my Class 4 in February and don't have experience with different thread and needle sizes yet, I've just been working with the white 277 I got with the machine to learn, so I can't make any suggestions about that at this point. I would recommend getting extra bobbins and the small LED light that he is selling that attaches to the machine with a magnet. I got the light last week after reading about it on here and I really like the way it puts light right where I'm sewing and it's only about $20. Also, I got 4 bobbins with the machine and I think if you plan on swapping around sizes and colors often having several extras on hand would be essential. One thing you will hear repeated on here a lot for new machine operators is to practice a lot and I'm finding that to be solid advise. Good luck.
Bob
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Bob A:
How are you breaking needles ? Just rec'd mine as well with no problems. 207 & 277.
The light is my only concern and Steve has the problem solved with a small LED light that has magnets that can be placed under the arm.
I broke one and bent one. Both caused by me pulling the thread to the side. Rookie mistakes on my part.
I'm thinking about getting the LED light, Do you have a picture of it?
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I got my Cobra 4 last wednesday but because I was away i couldn't unpack it until today. It looks great and was in perfect condition. Here is the but part. I am missing some accessories, the DVD and the extra needles. I started to check it out but broke a needle and now it is sitting silently until I hear back from Steve or David on monday. What size thread is that they used to sew the example that came with the machine anyhoo? I would like to order some thread like that. It is perfect for what I want to do first. I have to say that I am really dissappointed but I know that they have always made things right and will this time too.
I pretty sure the thread in the example they sent with mine was 277. I also broke a couple of needles when first trying it out. I'm sure Steve will take care of you.
Looking For A Better Knife
in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
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Don't know if you've tried hooked blades in your utility knife or not, but they've worked very well for me. I started using them after getting some Herman Oak leather due to the difficulty of cutting it and it helped me out a lot. It's something inexpensive to try if you haven't already. The link below is the style I'm talking about.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-5-Heavy-Duty-Hook-Utility-Knife-Blades-RWK16V/204156401