Gregg From Keystone Sewing
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Posts posted by Gregg From Keystone Sewing
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That's not how it works. In some cases the reverse lever plate is worn away, or something else is off.
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See attached. If the needle bar is hitting the the feed, make sure that the needle bar does not have a guide that is below the needle bar itself, see one of the images in the book.
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Tenn. Attach. sells a 460B with 1/4" mouth opening. Nothing generic is going to work for this application that I can think of.
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System is 292, 292A and or 292-12B, 10B
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These pictures look fantastic. Here is a gif I made up using a light box and turntable. Something I've been playing with.
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Very sorry to hear.
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Most common is the feeder or feed dog carrier is bumping or hitting something. Also less likely is the linkage is cocked off to one side and is binding.
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Just drill the hole large enough as needed and keep going. I'd be lying if I said it was the 1st time I've done it. Other tensions don't have a lot of generic availability like this one and often we have to make do with what's available.
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People used to do this quite a bit back in the day, but it hasn't been cost effective for decades. That said, who cares if someone just wants to do it?
In my opinion, use or get an LU-563 hook saddle B1811563000. I never heard of using the existing LU-562 saddle or a Singer 111W. I'm not at all saying that it can't be done, but I've never seen it done that way. LU-563 machines are almost 30 years old or more, some parts have to be available. Take up lever, if you can get new genuine, I would do that if you are not sure. It's a real problem to change this take up up lever in and out if it does not fit or work properly. B19055630B0 is the part number for the take up lever. Same for the hook. You can get a made in Japan hook, if you want to go heavy thread like the LU-1508NH you can use B1830563BA0. You could have everything correct but if the hook is bad from the start, it could be trouble. Like needles, hooks are very rarely of poor quality from a good Japanese or Italian manufacture. You also are going to want the bobbin case opening lever, B1824563000.
This is how I would start this project, and I'm interested to see how it works out.
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20 hours ago, Constabulary said:ISO = In Search Of I guess
This is why I'm here, to learn things. Thanks for the explanation. I guess I'm reading too much into things!!
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I missed this post. Never seen or heard of a 108W until now. Beautiful machine and rebuild. It' really looks fantastic. I even studied the parts book. Pretty straight forward Singer design.
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20 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:Updated YouTube Video Link Try This One Thanks Wiz!
See attached, this is a good example of the Racing puller I'm speaking of.
Fixed.
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14 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:This link leads to a 404 Not Found error: Oops, something went wrong.I tested it again on my windows PC. Should take you to YouTube.
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YouTube Video Racing Puller Example
See attached, this is a good example of the Racing puller I'm speaking of.
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I've never heard of ISO sewing parts. They all may fall under one umbrella, but individual parts? Maybe I'm not understanding correctly.
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See below. Make sure Parameter N.4 is ON. Usually from the factory this needs to be setup 1st.
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On 2/7/2021 at 7:27 PM, Josacraw said:The puller is very straight forward, no pun intended, and has no reverse function since it is driven off the flywheel. In sail sewing there's not a lot of need to use reverse to lock a stitch but it does come up. So it would be nice to be able to lift the puller while leaving the foot down. Not sure if anyone has seen a modification to do this.
ld adjust the center screw on the flywheel to make the pitman arm more eccentric?
As always thanks. What you guys know could fill a warehouse.
Stitch length, yes you got it. The way pullers work in almost every case is that they are one way directional. You can either lift the puller manually and then reverse if the machine can do that. There are pullers from the factory like Racing that allow you to hook up either electronic solenoid or pneumatic cylinder to automate the process.
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On 2/4/2021 at 10:03 PM, nylonRigging said:I have never seen an on-line Consew serial#'s and date of manufacture archive to look that up, Like you can easy do with Singer manufactured machines with factory serial#'s cross reference open direct to the public.
Does your Consew machine have the serial# cast on the underside front of the machine ? . You might give call or email Consew, and ask if there is a way, or if they even do publish there date of manufacture info .
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Actually, this was a Stager, not Seiko machine. Stager, even though a Consew, did not not do the first two numbers thing with date of mfg.
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This is great thanks for sharing. I missed this one from before.
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First two numbers will give the date of manufacture. They starting coming in around 2003.
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Michael Joseph, or MJ. They were really good.
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Pfaff 438 and 418 Service Book Download PDF
Too large to attached, click link to download, this should help a lot in this case here.
Edited, uploaded PDF here in case the link goes away sometime in the future.
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That's it, you got it.
SOFT START for Servo Motors
in Leather Sewing Machines
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Many positioning motors have a soft start option. The idea is that the first couple of stitches are loose, and will give the machine time to catch up to prevent the needle thread from coming out. It's not just for comfort.