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suem

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About suem

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Tampa Bay area, Florida
  • Interests
    Computers, Leather Craft, Tent making, SCA, making money (lol),

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    SCA Armor
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Stumbled upon, Google
  1. Poked around in the holes beneath the bobbin case with a pin last night, nothing popped out. Took the magnet too (pretty strong magnet too) fished around, didn't get anything. So next it sounds like I start poking around under the arm. I think I've seen the screw you are talking about on the diagrams. Aggh I had to turn down a couple of patch sewing (on leather vests) jobs already. I hope this screw is readily available. But if there was a broken screw in the arm, would the case rotate if the wheel is turned the other direction? I know you're not supposed to do that (turn the wheel the wrong dirction) so I'm not doing that a lot.
  2. No spouse, just a big iguana who would probably just turn around and stare at me and the offending noise for a minute and go back to sleep. So is it hard to set these up or is it just a matter of popping in cams? I assume the parts are available as well?
  3. Right now it won't come out or go back in. Since it's in the upper arm of the 29k 72 (that holds the needle bar onto the arm) I'm terrified of stressing the metal in the arm if I bang it too hard. I'll probably need to investigate your idea of drilling it out, I have a good drill and some titanium bits. I don't suppose heating it a bit may help at this point? I did order some new ones after the original one got stuck of course. I'm also wondering if the pin not going in may have something to do with the parts involved, it's the pin that holds the needle bar to the "trapeze(?)" that goes up and down on top of the machine, it was tough to get everything in just the right position all lined up. All the parts are replaceable but stil.... Anyway thanks.
  4. but am I right in thinking I have to take that bottom plate off to access bottom of the shuttle compartment? I've got one of those pickup tools will try that tonight.
  5. I had the same problem on my 72, tap from back to front, reinstall front to back. Mine came right out a couple of whacks, but getting it back in .... now that was a different issue, I couldn't get it in all the way and I was afraid I'd break something or mushroom it so far so good nothing's gone south, I hope, and maybe I'm dumb to hope this that eventually vibration and use will loosen it up and it'll either come out or I'll be able to get it in position.
  6. I was pleasantly sewing along on my 29k 72 and something went "thunk," I pulled the bobbin case out and the screw was missing from the little spring on the side (tension spring?). After a little poking around with a pin, half the screw popped out the bottom of the arm but right now if I rotate the wheel towards me the shuttle/hook doesn't rotate, if I go backwards a little bit it does that but will not go forward (and yes I pulled the needle to be sure that wasn't just out of alignment). I'm thinking the other piece of the screw is still in there jamming up the works. From what I can see it looks like you have to take the bottom plate off to have any hope of removing the shuttle/hook from the machine. If this was on my modern machine I'd suspect I'd tripped the safety on the hook but I don't know if this thing even has such an animal. Ideas gratefully appreciated, going to have to unbolt it to get a screwdriver underneath since I don't have a proper stand for it (free hanging arm). My local industrial guy doesn't seem real thrilled to deal with it and I don't have 80.00 for him to try either if I can avoid it. I'll also need one of those dinky screws for the case and I'd like to get a second large bobbin case to for backups. Thanks for the help!!!!
  7. If this has been asked before I apologize. I'm doing quite a lot of sewing involving straps and handles, right now I do the x type box stitching to hold the strap on for strength manually on my patcher or my other leather machine. This takes a lot of time, I could get more done if it was a bit more automated and thus take on larger jobs with a more tight delivery schedule. Yes I've seen the 5000+ dollar computerized tackers, wish I could hit the lottery and buy one. Yes I've also seen used ones in the 2500.00 range, still a bit tight for the beer budget. I'm certain that someone had box x tackers before computers came about .... I've seen a few older singers advertised as box x machines but I'm not having luck findout what they can do etc. I've heard there are machines that use cams instead of a computer...that is ideal to me, no worries about sensitive electronics in the florida humidity (not to mention static electricity in the winter). So I need the advice of the experienced on what sort of box x machines are out there that are not computerized and what their capabilities are and some idea of what I may be able to buy one for. I am doing primarily one and two inch strap material, heavy nylon and leather, may have a need for 4 inch straps in the future. So what's out there? Can I please get some manufacturer names and model numbers...I just have no clue what search words to use in google not finding much under box x, or box tacker. All help appreciated.
  8. If anyone comes across one of the original metal treadle/motor tables for the singer 29k series (I think they're all the same base I have a 29k 72) i would love to buy it from you. I live in Florida, if it's up the east coast anywhere I'll come pick it up..west coast we'd have to discuss shipping or freight options. Just want my baby to be complete. Thanks for looking! I'm not rolling in cash but I'm willing to pay a fair price.
  9. This is a little off topic but relevant to the machine. I take it this is not made anymore? What a fantastic idea, a pneumatic sewing machine. I guess if I want one it's going to be used, are parts still pretty available? Thanks.
  10. I'm in Florida too, guess I never considered a sail shop but now that you mention it..... Aren't the industrial tables for this designed to be stood up for use? I.e. these aren't made for a sitting operator are they? At least the ones sold with it aren't designed for a sitting operator......
  11. that looks yummy. I'd love to have a treadle for my 29k 72 just because sometimes I am in places with no AC available to plug into. The industrial stands are rare alone probably since they were usually sold with the head and not separate. I saw one on ebay a couple months ago he wanted two hundred for it as a opening bid... don't know what he got. Your idea looks a lot more practical and the treadle base you used is a ton more available too. I found one online place that wanted 70 for each side piece, 70 for the top and then more for the pedal and the mechanism...they're freaking nuts in my book but I guess if you want it bad enough you'd cough it up. Your flat bed adapter table piece is great too, some of the new ones made by consew have that feature, does make em more versatile.
  12. I just use reverse on the machine if machine sewn. If hand sewn I run the thread between two holes several times and knot as close to one hole as a I can...of course find the most inconspicuous place you can for this method.
  13. Finally got the screws out!!!!! Yeah, gonna pour me a rum and coke!!! The "put the flatblade in the slot (or what's left of it) and hit it with a hammer" to hopefully cut the slot more deeply method finally worked. Of course the torching and the pb probably all helped too and it wasn't just one thing. All my nice jewelers screwdrivers didn't do it, it was the dollar tree cheapie set that finally did it in addition to the hammer...I can see why the last owner didn't bother, it was a PITA; or maybe they didn't think the parts were available, their loss. I'm considering getting the bearing assembly on the top of the machine for the butterfly. I know bearings can get flat spots on them and might as well change it now if that's even a remote possibility. The butterfly "was" turning smoothly when I pulled the needle bar now it's back to binding again...thus suspicion of bearing. I didn't find any pieces of the spring which I "assume" would have popped out with the needle bar (at least I hope). Any thoughts on how to tell if that bearing is bad? THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT SUGGESTIONS AND THE GREAT HELP!!!!
  14. Back on the stiff butterfly matter When I pulled the needle bar it moves freely, played a bit with it today oiling it and it's moving stiff again. I don't see anything down inside..I suppose it could just be gunky in there but I've dropped so much oil and pb blaster in there I can't see a speck of gunk surviving all that I noticed a "revolving head bearing" that is the funky shaped structure on the top of the machine where the tension discs etc are located on diagrams in the parts manual I have. Any chance the bearing in there could have a flat spot or be gunked up inside that? I've always wondered how sealed bearings got lubricated?
  15. Lowes carries, Bostitch (stanley) Pin punch set 1.5,3,4,5,6,8 mm flat tipped punches, 12.95 for the set, seemed to work great.
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