19th century bootmaker

Thanks, I will ty the right hand twist. It seems to work with the nylon thread, but still misses and gets tangles now and then. But I only use nylon for theatrical stuff, so not much.

Is there a repairman in Southern Ontario who can set up an ancient McKay stitcher. It is the type with 3 legs from the 1860's. Mostly the problem is lack of an original castoff spring. or if someone has a manual for this machine it would be great. Thanks, JesseLee

I have an old Gritzner sole stitcher, the type that all the moving parts can be seen. It seems the thread snags in the shuttle hook. Sometimes it won't do this when testing on Vibram. Could the needle groove be worn and it's not catching the thread? or perhaps the shuttle hook needs refaced? Or some other problem. Any advice is helpful. I mosly use Barbours linen cord. The manual says 'left' hand twist (which I have) but have never known a lock stitch machine to use left hand twist, only chain stitch machines. Thanks, JesseLee

She is a beauty. Now I want one for my working museum. My oldest machines are a McKay sole stitcher circa. 1862 and either a Columbia (1861) or International chain stitch machine. Do you ever come across pegging machines? Regards, JesseLee

Hi Ryan, where can I access this book, pictures and anything else about this machine? Regards, JesseLee

I am looking for old crimping screws, crimping boards and 19th century tin/brass boot patterns for my working 19th century boots museum.

What year is this machine/ Is there a year on the receipts. She's a beautiful piece of iron. JesseLee

Junker & Ruh is small and lever action and sews wonderfully. Try Greenman Leather Works on here. I got one from Stephen last year and was totally amazed and satisfied with it. JesseLee

Better late than never. Have you any pictures of your machine? I could send some of mine. I have searched the world for manuals and books. I was only able to identify mine by pictures of a collector in England. Only problem with mine is the walking foot won't walk. I need to find detailed pics of the interior of the cylinder, front, side and back of one which does in all the foot motions. It seems the shaft of the foot is driven by the arm (with the circle) at the top, and my walking foot top shaft may be worn. JesseLee

I was just looking at their site. What compound is best to replicate lasts? And can you nail into it like you do a last? Cheers, JesseLee

I have owned two Puritan low post machines in my life and they are amazing.

Have you got a picture of this machine? And how old is it. Was it ever treadle operated? Thanks

I am looking for a complete machine here. Perhaps the fore runner of the Puritan which had the removable table and was treadle operated. Looking for treadle, pedal or hand crank operation. Must be all there and sew a chain stitch with #4 to #7 Barbours linen.

Hey All, I posted before (actually my PA did) and got it wrong. She posted. I have 2 Bradbury machines. The 1878 sews perfectly. The 1885(?)is much larger with a smaller bobbin and its all there, but I can't get the walking foot to walk. I have played with the stitch length ajustment at the wheel and wondered if it was the cam or if the screw was too short from wear. Anyone know why this problem is happening? That machine is actually an 1860-61 Koch and Co. Bielfeld machine. Not sure how the later (same era) Durrkopp machines compare re. walking foot mechanism. Everything moves free. Seems that the lock nut/bolt for stitch length has a machined hole in it. Perhaps for a tip made of brass or copper to bear against the cam???? Putting a piece of copper in it did not affect anything (too short?) I would appreciate any help on figuring this out. Its the first sewing machine which has baffled me for more than a day.

The screw which adjusts the stitch length at the cam is fine, but the length stays the same ie. just punches the same hole over and over. The bar is fine. The 1878 which works has a cone which lifts the foot. The 1885 does not. Thanks for the input.

Foot treadle model preferred.

Looking for a bench model McKay with hand crank and foot operated treadle McKay machine or any similar chain stitch machines which will sew with up to a #7 Barbours linen cord. Any old heavy cord chain stitch machines considered. Also looking for a pegging machine.

I have 2 Bradbury machines. The 1878 sews perfectly. The 1885(?)is much larger with a smaller bobbin and its all there, but I can't get the walking foot to walk. I have played with the stitch length ajustment at the wheel and wondered if it was the cam or if the screw was too short from wear. Anyone know why this problem is happening?

Are they still around? I would love to meet them. I have a working museum of old machines. Do you have contact information?

Looking for old pedal/hand crank chain stitcher that sews with minimum #4 Barbours linen. Any old heavy cord stitchers, any condition. Old wooden cowboy boot lasts and square toed lasts. Pegging machine. Cheers, JesseLee Cantrell

Please see my introduction 'greetings from the 19th century'. I am currently living in Hamilton, Ontario just across the border from Niagara Falls NY and my shop is here. I am seeking a hard core Confederate reenactor/historian/old west enthusiast to apprentice and learn CW to 1890's boot making. This will be a traditional 19th century apprenticeship. Applicant would also be required to travel to reenactments to be a sutler. Also looking for a female stitching/sewing apprentice to make early to late females shoes and bootee's. Cheers, JesseLee

My name is JesseLee Cantrell. My specialty is 1850's to late 1890's boots and shoes. I started my apprenticeship in 1964 in WVa and was taught by John Henry Taylor (1877-1970). Having in my possession his hand written Trade secrets journal (started by his shop Master in 1856). I also inherited his shop with machines going back to the Civil War as well as hand tool, lasts etc. All of the work at Cantrell Boots is of the period from just before the Civil War to the gunfighter and old west era. It is not a Civil War/old west costume footwear shop, but one off pieces made to exacting standards of the period. Later this Summer/Fall I will be having an open house weekend meet and greet, displays, hands on etc. for those interested in 19th century boot and shoe making. It will be held at The Dom Studio, a huge vintage analog recording studio of which I am a partner, and where my shop is currently housed. see: cantrellboots.com and thedomstudio.com (under construction) Cheers, JesseLee Cantrell