rockinjleatherwork

Thank you Sandy, I will try them. It wouldn't be a big concern if this wasn't a western pleasure show piece.

Does anyone know where I can purchase the persumed silver nails or pins that go into silver tips? These are used to attach the tip to the leather.

Yes Grey, it is tar like and a pain the *** to get out. Big Souix your are exactly right. Most cowboys just throw some oil on it and keep riding it. However they don't realize that oil just makes the grime bond to leather. Almost like adding glue to it. I did purchase two sets of fine picks Friday. Similiar to dental picks. Took one and cut the tip off, heated it and hammered out a small flat curved pick. I used the curved pointed one (similiar to the one that the dentist use) and the custom made one to clean the saddle groove. However, if I tell you a price I stick to it and didn't charge the owner any more for the extra 4 hrs of picking. Needless to say learned my lesson to inspect saddles in detail before I set a price. Thanks all for the help and suggestions.

Chief, I have used the Leather Balm alot with saddles in the past, and had great results. However the depth of the tooling will not allow for a tooth brush brissels to get deep enough to remove the yellow residue. This is not ordinary dirt or mold that I'm dealing with. I always use compressed air before cleaning just to help break up and build up in tight areas. I've cleaned probably around 200 trophy saddles and this is first one that I've had this problem with. It's all most as if a pick is needed to get it out of the grooves. I think alot of it has to do with how the owner is storing the saddle and the fact that its used to go catch cattle every day (used like a borrowed mule). Chris

I have recently taken my leatherwork from a hobby to a second business and need some tips on cleaning saddles. I know all the basic steps to cleaning, oiling and conditioning leather. It seems that roping saddles use alot of meander and basket weave stamping. The problem I have is fully cleaning each and every groove of the stamping pattern. These saddles haven't ever been properly clean, so there is yellow residue deep in the grooves of the stamping. Any help or tips for cleaving this residue would be greatly appreciated.

Of course the first step is to find a patter or make your own. Making your own is the best way to get the best fit on the horse. Usually 4 to 6 oz leather is great for this. First, determine the size of halter that your horse requires. Second, measure the length of the nose band that is already on the halter, the lengths range from 8 to 10 inches. After you have the halter and size desired for the nose piece, I use microsoft word to draw my templates. Just insert an oval shape onto the landscaped page and size the oval to the desired length and height, normally 3 to 4 inches for the height is what I use. Print the page out and mask the front and back with scotch tape. Cut the figure out. Note this template is still flexible, so you may need to practice tracing the shape onto regular paper, before tracing to leather. Now that you have your shape, you need to trace a front and back piece out of the leather. Note: the back piece will need to have tabs so that you will be able to secure the nose piece to the halter with conchos. The next step is to stamp or carve or ink the design onto the front piece. After that use tanners bond to secure the back piece to the front piece. Note: the back piece should have the finished surface of the leather towards the horse's skin. After bonding both pieces, stitch the two pieces together. Next finish the edges by burnishing them and punch out the holes for the conchos, and then you have finished your bronc halter. I'm sorry it's such a lengthy post, but its not worth posting unless its right. Good luck with making your bronc halter! I have plenty of pics of ones I have made, if you would like examples of different designs I can email them to you. Chris rockinjleatherwork@gmail.com Long Live Cowboys!