RThompson

Yup, these loops were just thrown together to work out the kinks in the design - they're rough cut and not finished at all. The front loop has actually stretched to accomodate the belt, so it's not damaging the belt at all, but still pulls the holster tight into the body. I'm pretty sure the final belt attachments will be double loops to help stop the leather deforming and allow it to pull tight better.

Hi, This is my first post on leatherworker.net. My interest is in making my own holsters and bags. This is my first attempt at a holster. Actually, it's the first thing I've made from scratch (previously only made a rounder, keyfob and cell phone case from a Tandy kit). It's for my Ruger P95. Belt loops are attached via Chicago screws set at 1.5" centers. the holes on the wings are through and through to allow attachment on either the front or rear side of the holster. The t-nuts on the spine are encapsulated. I chose this system for two reasons: so I didn't have to worry about belt loop geometry so the carry method could be varied dependent on what you want to do It's currently set up for strong side carry (3:30), but with changes to attachments could be crossdraw, small of back or even attach to a shoulder rig, vest or thigh rig. The thumb break works in so far as it stops the safety from digging into my (somewhat substantial) sides, but the snap needs to be bigger (its a line 16 and needs to be a line 24). The sweat protector could also be slightly larger to allow easier disengagement on the draw. I'm considering making the sweatband/thumbstrap modular as well to allow them to be easily switched for weakside/left handed carry still allowing the main holster body to remain unchanged. it's unstained, wet molded and handstitched (must get a stitching pony...) Comments welcome! Rob