sepulverture

Paul, Thanks for the compliments on my work. I didn't actually make the curved awl until I was nigh on finished with my first attempt at the holdfast. Up until that point I was using a straight awl (saddlers awl?). This second time around I used the curved awl that I made (pictured in last post) and a shorter curved awl which has a much more accelerated curve. Both of them glided right through the leather when I used a little bees wax as a lubricant. They do still catch and could be a lot smoother, so I've taken them to the sanding paper and done what I can with what I have. The result is satisfactory for the time being. I think I more or less got a handle on the holdfast, not perfect but that will come with practice. Now I am moving on towards getting ideas and whatnot for making patterns. I am at the point where I am mostly wondering how to go about taking measurements, and deciding on sizes and everything for my patterns. The boot I have in mind is a fairly simple one, basically just four pieces each for the uppers linings and covers. Vamp and counter cover being one continuous piece that is stitched together behind the heel, and stiffened with a counter, and something like another cover sewn up the heel and spine of the boot to seal the rear of the shaft and counter cover seam. The shaft will be divided into two halves and they'll meet in the front on the instep/high instep where they will be laced/belted together. I plan to have a zipper running up the side on the inside, although I'm not totally sure about this because it would compromise water proofing a little bit, although the quick on/off is something I have enjoyed in all the boots I've purchased in the last few years. Considering that these will be fully hand-sewn, since I don't have a machine (and want to develop a reputation as doing fully hand-stitched work) I am thinking a lot about how the patter should be arrange, how much seam allowance to give, and the construction of the lining. I am also giving your stitched-in counter suggestion serious though. I think that the pocket counter would be easier, and I am not expecting a whole lot out of these since they are after all only my first pair of boots made in this style, but I am also thinking I ought to be establishing as many good habits as I can from the get-go. Here are a few photos of my second attempt at a holdfast. I am not sure about the spacing, I was just eye-balling it, and the lack of rulers that are demarcated with standard American inches makes it more difficult. Knowing that an inch is roughly 2.5cm though I checked it out with my cm based rulers and it seems to work out to roughly 3 to the inch, although around the toe and heel the spacing becomes kind of uneven. Even so it ought to work out ok.

This reply is a bit late in coming, but I've been rather busy this past week. It has been the Chinese "National Day" here, kind of like our independence day back in the States, and I was busy with obligatory things here and there, and went camping over the weekend. (incidentally the Chinese countryside is very beautiful and clean, unlike the cities, perfect place to recharge the batteries of a small towner who somewhat homesick) I watched the videos made by Marcell over at the Crispin Colloquy on the HCC, and they were very insightful. Also after observing the photos you posted at the beginning of this page demonstrating what a holdfast ought to look like I tried sculpting my own. For lacking a lot of information on exactly how one is made I think it turned out ok for just a tester, and I learned a lot from it. I also watched just about all of the other videos (except one talking about metal plates on the last, since my last is all plastic I didn't think it was relevant right now). It really was an extremely worthwhile endeavor to join and nav the forums. Unfortunately when I made this holdfast I was using just a straight awl, since I was lacking the curved spade-headed awls commonly demonstrated in all the videos. Because of this it created a lot of upward tension while holing the holdfast, and the awl tore right through a few of them. After I finished holing though I realized this just isn't going to work, so I set about making more proper awls (since they aren't available in any of the leather stores that I'm aware of here). I did this by taking an appropriately sized Allen wrench, and cold hammering it flat, and then cold hammering one end of the wrench into a rough spade shape, then using a rotary drill with a small metal grinding attachment and shaped it as well as I could then used the handle of a pair of steel dumb bells that I have to make the curve shape. Then I just used a retractable awl haft that I have been using for other things. It's a bit rough at the moment, so it catches a little bit when holing with it, but I found that applying a layer of bees wax, and a layer of dubbin on top of the bees wax it glides through alright.

Paul, I have been going through the Crispin Colloquy the last few days, checking out the gallery images and searching out book references, especially pdf or otherwise downloadable books or videos since shipping is rather prohibitive where I am. I have registered there and just waiting for my information to be processed before I may begin posting there. I did check out their open forum and you were absolutely right. There is a tremendous wealth of information to be found there, but it is a little on the unusual side for navigating, but nothing that can't be adjusted to. I understand what you mean about the pocket construction completely now. Basically that would be making the heel the same way the toe box is made, sandwiching the stiffener material between two other layers of material. This is what I intended to do when doing the heel construction. Before reading much up on the subject I had planned to make the heel by using a heavier leather, although I wasn't sure what weight (your suggestion on weight was helpful, thanks), and placing it between the liner and counter cover, but reading your description of what a stitched-in counter is it makes a lot of sense. My only question regarding that would be comfort. I suppose it wouldn't matter much since there isn't a lot of downward weight being applied to the counter while a person walks, but would a stitched in counter cradle the heel the same way a cushioned or padded heel would? Is it as comfortable to wear? I understand your comment regarding thinking into the future life of the boot to determine how plausible different patterns and schemes for linings might be. I don't have a sewing machine, and don't plan on stumping up for one until I am more certain of the direction I want to take my work in, so I will have to see about that. Therefore since all my work will be hand stitched I guess I need to think carefully about where and how to apply the lining. I have also tried my hand ad sculpting a holdfast, which i will post up later on.

Thanks Paul for the attached images. They have indeed fed my imagination a bit. Your example of the holdfast is considerably different from what I originally pictured, but it makes sense I think. Do you have any other photos of inseaming you could share? I think I have a good idea what you're talking about the whole lasting process, and in fact this morning I put together a fitters model to test part of my pattern (I haven't got the whole pattern worked out yet, because I don't quite understand the whole process of measuring and whatnot yet, kind of figuring that out as I go right now). I also used the toe box that I made the other day with this fitters model just to see how it feels. I think my last may actually be a bit too long, but will see when the fitter is done. I did check out the sites you recommended, and saw the books you suggested. They do look like something I ought to be getting and studying and I intend to do so. I am assuming that when you say "pocket construction" regarding the boots I intend to make that you are meaning the vamp and counter are in fact one piece stitched together along the back of the heel. This is what I'm currently intending, since it seems to be the easiest design to work with at the moment. Also i have a pair of Belleville Gore-Tex combat boots that have this construction, and I like their look and feel a lot. I have taken step-by-step photos of what I am currently trying out on my last, which I will post up probably tonight or tomorrow. Based on these pictures you may be able to have an idea of the direction I am intending to take with these boots. One question I have right off of my head is that when mentioning a 'stitched in' lining do you mean that each piece of the outter (shaft, vamp, counter pieces) each have their own piece of lining stitched directly to them, and the "pocket" lining refers to larger sheets of lining that would cover all the seams from the inside? If this is in fact your meaning I am currently planning to do a "stitched" lining.

Paul, Thanks for the thoughtful reply, and yes the name is Nick, or Nicholas if you prefer (I have no qualms either way). First I need to point out that none of the images attached are showing up, I have no idea why so I'm afraid some of your points didn't quite come out. Perhaps reattaching the images will resolve that problem. To answer two of your questions in one go I decided not to go with the Russel Hunting boot for my first go. I can understand how you'd think it to be too ambitious a project to try right out of the gate (although to be quite frank I enjoy taking on overly ambitious first attempts on things. I think I learn a lot about myself in the process), but in the interest of saving time, headaches and money on wasted leather I decided to go with a comparatively simple British paratroopers boot with belted shaft cover (image attached at the end of message, black and white). I decided for the entire upper to be one large piece with a counter piece attached to the outside to reinforce the heel. And to be honest I'm not sure i know what a pattern makers model is. Unfortunately I'm working with relatively limited supplies, since cordwaining is not that hot of a trade here. It has a huge market in this city for shoe and boot makers, but not many people practice here so tools are not easy to come by. I made a crimping board the other day with a hack-saw and a bamboo kitchen cutting board that I picked up at a local farmers co-op, and it works alright for my purposes. But no pattern makers model. Without the attached pictures I can only assume what you mean by the fitters model, but just from what you've said I'm assuming it's a mock-up of the intended boot using scrap leather just to test the fit, so that any changes that need to be made to the patterns can be made without wasting good leather. Thinking about it I do believe I have a fitter in the works. I think this is ultimately what all these pieces are going towards. I used the toe-box to check the fit on my foot, and found it to be good as I type this I've cut a liner of soft pig skin that is mulling right now and waiting to be lasted. I have no qualms with the insole for the fitter being cemented. My only concern when it comes to the actual product is that Beijing's run off after rains can be mildly corrosive to cements and leather if it soaks in good, thanks to all the pollution, so I am adamant about good strong welting of some sort. I also need to practice pegging my heel stacks, for the same reason. Back to the fitter though. I am planning to last the liner tonight and let it sit overnight and tomorrow cut out an upper, get it mulled and stretch it over my crimping board, while that's curing I plan to do everything for the heel, and on sunday get it all lasted together, then when that's cured and dried to slip my foot in and check it out. If I'm pleased with that then move forward from there. Regarding the Norwegian welt, I am vaguely familiar with it. I have the method for doing the actual stitching down pat, I've used it a lot on other things I've made (bags, decorative items). I think I know the sequence for tacking down the drafts. If memory serves it should be a couple around the toe, then behind the ball then fill in the rest of the forepart, then proceed to the rear. I have had a little trouble with chasing the tunnels from the sides of the last down to the underside of the last, but I think I'm figuring that out a little as i go. As for the HCC, yes I have checked out the site several times. I even considered purchasing a membership, but before I do I need to make a few pairs of shoes and consider how far I want to take this. As things stand now this is shaping up to be something I want to take out of the realm of hobbying and take it to higher places and possibly make a living from it after a few more years of experience. As is there is a bit of demand for my bags being generated around the fashion circles in the city thanks to some tailor friends of mine helping advertise my work, but shoes and boots is a whole different ballpark. Once I've settled on a decision I'll decide on purchasing a membership or not. But yes, it is going to need patience as I didn't have a whole lot of luck navigating the site. I'll give you a chance to respond before this post turns into a novel. Thanks again, looking forward to your reply, Nick

These really are beautifully crafted boots.A lot could be learned from you, thanks for sharing.

Well, i figured out a bunch of the problems as I went along with this, and was very pleased with the results. I personally like deep toe boxes, so I made the inner portion of the toe box of a more rigid leather of a heavy-ish weight of about 6.5oz, and covered it with an equally weighted layer of leather that is naturally very pliable. I guess if I were to run the second layer of thick pliable leather around the whole vamp it would be called double vamp, which is great because that's why I want to do with this these boots. Next test I plan to do is with a full vamp+ counter, but no shaft panels or lining. The thing that is getting my goat a little bit now is when making the insole how to pull of a hold-fast and do the inseaming. I have done inseaming before, but of a totally different style. I am also wondering if anyone knows of any good tutorial on how to do a goodyear welt, or a Norwegian welt. I'm sure to the more experienced boot makers this job looks rather sloppy, but I think i'm pretty happy with it for having been the first toe-box I've ever made on a last. It turned out very well. If I were to put a vamp cover on over this I think it would look alright. Not perfect of course, that will come with practice, but I'm pleased for the moment.

I have lined a pair of small bracers for myself that I keep magnetic key-cards in and small change for paying bicycle park fares and whatnot. I lined these with the same leather, and considering that Beijing summer is just ending which is hot, and dry with some moisture from heavy rainfall every now and then, plus considering all the other odds and ends of leather accessory usage I'd say they have lasted great so far. I have been wearing these for about a year, by the way. They don't take rubber cement very well however. Any surface I've tacked them down to with rubber cement has seen the silk come unglued shortly after the cement has dried, so really the cement is only good for temp-tacking to hold in place for stitching. I have run into problems with test lasts of lining leather (pig skin) and toebox leather (6~7oz cow leather). I gave each piece a full skive to a feather point, except the toe box leather i skived to scant edges, about 1 inch allowance on the toe-box, and just on the edges for the lining (since they are so thin anyway). The problems I am having are that when nailing the pieces to the last wrinkles form along the upper part of the low instep and waist of the last. I have managed to work some of these out by hand, and by repositioning nails on the underside of the last to try to distribute the stretch more evenly. I think part of the problem may be that the stretching is inherently uneven because I don't have counter lining attached, only vamp lining (again, just experimental test lasts to get a feel for my lasts, and understand how to construct toe boxes). I also realized that I may need a crimp board to help set the shape of the vamp before attempting to last it, and this may help with wrinkling. Another problem I have is that when I have tried nailing the seam allowances down on the underside of the last that I have ended up with large and very visible creases and wrinkles along the front of the toe, leading to where the vamps are tacked down. The only thing I can figure is that I need to notch the leather before trying to last it and that may alleviate the problem, but I also remember going through picture tutorials on lasting and seeing that the vamps weren't notched before being lasted, and that the guy in the tutorial has no problems lasting without leaving large creases. I will provide pictures later to help demonstrate my points, I am at work now and don't have access to them. Hopefully some of you may have an idea already about what problems i am talking about and be able to provide some feedback.

sure thing. Here is a photo of a pair of decorative bracers I did for a friend of mine. Also included is a pair of moccasin boots I made for the same guy (I don't like the tassels much personally, but then again I'm not the one wearing them).

Just a little update on progress here. I went and bought materials I want to use for the boots. They didn't have all of what was suggested. Unfortunately I was finally able to confirm that most of the leather sold here is chrome tanned. I guess veg tan just isn't in high enough demand here to justify keeping much in stock. Also the selection wasn't ideal in terms of what was available in my budget. For the lining I ended up getting 1~1.5mm pig skin leather, which is roughly 3~4oz., and for the vamp/counter I ended up getting 5~6oz cowhide, and for the toe boxes and counter inners I have a good supply of 6.5~7oz cow hide left over from previous projects. for the soles I have a large sheet of 16~16.5 oz hardened cowhide, and rubber treads that can be cemented to the bottoms of the soles. For an additional layer of inner lining I have a bolt of fine Chinese silk that I have used to line some bags, and a pair of moccasins I made for a friend, and I also have a sheet of fur-on sheep skin for making a winter insert for the boots.

Norwegian - Thanks for the photos, they did kind of clear up some questions i had in mind. Pictures are worth a thousand words, right? Thanks for the e-book reference, I will check that out too!

Thanks Norwegian and L.I. for the prompt reples! Basically I am trying to construct a toe-box. What I am attempting to make is a double vamped outdoors boot, but before trying to make the boot I need to work out the problems I've been having with lasting. I believe the leather is veg tanned, although I'm not sure. Unfortunately I live in China, and since Chinese is my second language I've had some trouble getting some of the related jargon down in Chinese. I think it's veg tanned though because if you take a nick out of the leather with a knife you can see that it is colored through all layers of the fiber, which I was told at one point is a characteristic of veg tanned leather, but I can't be sure. Basically I am teaching myself at the moment for lack of a mentor, although I have hung around some of the cordwainers shops (which are few and far between). Some of them have been gracious enough to let me hang around and look over their shoulder, but most of the shoes I have seen have been purely cemented constructions, which is not what I was wanting to do. Regardless of the method I have learned a lot, but have only been able to wander in and watch them at whatever stage of construction they happened to be at at that moment. With regards to lining leathers, basically i have none right now. I realized that I will need several layers of lighter weight leather, or a lighter weight leather combined with the heavier leather. The main goal of these experiments was to get a better grasp of the lasting process so that when I begin actual work on my boots the result will be better. I actually have no counter on the last, since I was only intending to practice stretch and hardening leather on the last, and didn't want to cut any new sheets until I was closer to being ready for a full undertaking. What I did was took a piece of scrap leather (I think veg tan 6~7oz) and stretched it over the last after soaking it in cool water for about 15 minutes, tacked it to the last starting under the tip of the toe, and pulled and tacked around the edges until it was taut and even over the last, and let it dry. When it was dry I poured two gallons (roughly) worth of near-boiling water over it following the method used for cuir bouilli leather hardening with boiling water which got me almost no results on this occasion, although I have achieved very good results on different items. After the boiled water treatment I let them sit overnight to dry and hopefully harden. The results were disappointing as they held shape well, but were soft and overall just not what I expected. After letting them sit for another afternoon they are more pliable and springy, but still not what I had expected. What I got from your suggestions is that I should be using a thinner veg tan liner and a heavier chrome tanned outer vamp. I am fuzzy on the process though. How do you case it? What do you mean by this? How exactly do you construct the toe box? Just from the brief description of your last post it sounds like I should first use a thin 3-ish oz inner liner tacked to the last and then encase that with a heavier leather similar to what I am currently using and cement it to the liner. Skiving the edges is no problem, I have some experience with that and have a good knife for doing so. What I"m not clear about is what is meant by lasting now. My understanding of lasting was using a pair of pliers/curved lasting pliers to pull the leather taut over the last and then tack the leather to prepare upper and sole to be attached. I guess basically I am wanting to know how to construct a toe box, and if there are preferred methods for lasting a shoe, and how to construct the upper. I have read a ton of tutorials and watched some videos about lasting the upper once it's made, but have seen very little information about actually putting the upper together and preparing it for lasting. I have other questions, but this is getting lengthy and perhaps it would be better to save them for when they are more relevant. Thanks for the help so far! Hope to hear back with more information.

I recently made some test attempts at lasting using some junk leather left over from past projects, and was fairly successful in getting them to shape properly, and whatnot. I had problems with the firmness of the leather though. The leather in question is roughly 6-7oz or so, full grain, and I am having trouble getting it to harden properly. I had read articles on hardening leather before, and have successfully hardened leather in the past using near-boiling water. I wet lasted the leather, stretching it over the last after dampening it with cool water, and then once the leather was in place I poured boiling water over it evenly and slowly to try to get it to harden. The shape held fine, but when pressure was applied to it after taking it off the last it immediately collapsed, and needed me to push it back out into shape. How can I successfully harden the leather to make a hard toed boot? I also tried tooling it with a hammer while on the last to compress the fibers and try to make it harder that way, but with little luck. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Alb!

Thanks a lot for the advice. Unfortunately I can't open that website, for some inexplicable reason it's blocked where I am. I figured these boots would be a fairly ambitious undertaking, but I am confident that with patience and calm I can achieve some good results with them. They won't be perfect, but they will be mine and they will be a stepping stone, so that's alright.

Hey everyone, First of all I'd like to introduce myself; My name is Nick/Nicholas, I am a U.S. expat currently living in the far east. I have been making leather bags for the last year and have begun to learn shoe making. I have made a few pairs of moccasins that were hand-stitched with no last for a decent commission, and a few pairs of sheepskin slippers for family, but now I want to get into making more rugged work-boots for myself, and see how I like the art. I have had a set of lasts custom made to my size and the style I want, but now comes the hard work. I have used these lasts to help re-shape some old boots, but I have yet to use them to make a pair of boots from scratch. I have read about a hundred tutorials on how to last the boot once the template is made, and pieces are cut out and pre-stitched together, but none of the tutorials I saw made mention of how to actually plan the cut-outs, and pre-stitch the uppers with reasonable accuracy, so that's why I am here. (See here for the style of boot I'm going to be trying to make: http://www.russellmoccasin.com/images/sheephunters_repair.jpg ) I am hoping that one of the talented boot/shoemakers on these boards would be kind enough to give me a brief run down on how to measure patterns and whatnot before blade touches tanned flesh. Thanks a lot, I hope to hear back from you all, and I'm glad to be a member of this community. Regards, Nick