brettra

Hello again community, I know someone can steer me in the right direction. If I'm unclear in my description please let me know. Right now I 'm thinking that a pattern making forum or sewing forum may be the best resource. Does anyone here have some tricks/tips they find useful in making their custom bags containers etc. Thanks again, Scott

There seems to be many versions of the "round tuit" they do tend to bring out a smile (and sometimes a bit of work) when used at the right time.

I'm certain most know the story behind "Round Tuits". Here is my go at one. This was done up with a circular cutter then a vinyl template was made with a cricut cutter. Kept the negative template of the letters. Adhered the template on the dyed coaster and used acrylic paint for the lettering. Finished with a super sheen. Just one of the fun projects with no real purpose:thumbsup: Scott

Here is a website that shows a bag with two pieces that must mate up perfectly. http://bighousedaddy.com/a_multipurpose_bag.htm For reference, I bought the pattern pack so this project itself is not an issue. Here is the bag I made: I'm thinking of a bigger project so I want to ensure the two pieces I use come together properly in the same fashion. As you can see the dimensions of the two pieces are different but the perimeter measurements match up to bring the pieces together perfectly. This is what I am trying to replicate on a bigger project. Again, thanks for taking the time to assist

I'm looking for any advise on how to obtain an accurate measurement for two pieces that are of different sizes that will be joined. The best example I can think of is a toiletry bag that has two oblong circular patterns that will mate up. The sizing must be perfect to prevent any pinching and make the bag look complete. I know I can wrap a fabric tape around the perimeter but, I am thinking this still leaves enough room for error on a finished piece. I 'm also certain there is an easy answer to this but my brain is not fining it :D. Thanks for any advise, Scott

I also did a 50/50 blend of Tandy's Bee's Wax with general paraffin wax. Simply used an aluminum baking tin to melt, gently stir and then poured into Bathroom Dixie Cups. Once hardened, simply peeled the cups apart and had a 3 oz size bar of wax. I think the mix really would become personal preference to what each person feels works best. Hope this is of some use

How are you burnishing the chrome tan? Extra steps or differences in burnishing veggie? My understanding is that it is extremely difficult. Thanks, Scott

I'm sewing the inside of the bag with a whip stitch right now..... about as relaxed as I can get I've rushed few projects so now when I get frustrated or tired. The work stops. I've been finding things coming out better that way. Lots of practice in the works. Great having people to bounce ideas and questions off of though.. .it's really made a difference in actually completing some projects. Thanks all, Scott

Rick, Thank you. I had seen this before but could not find it. This was the idea I had in mind bout would not have figured it out without reference. I'm not sure how well I'd manage this with hand stitching so I'm starting to gear towards some lace but I think I'll try my practice piece. Again, great help and assistance. Thank you both for taking the time to respond. Scott

Thanks Ferg, Are there any particular tricks that work well for edging with calf skin and the line-up of the stitches. I'm thinking that an oversized piece trimmed after stitching may be best. Also, I'm guessing a sewing awl and reel may be the best to work in a lock-stitch. I had a brain fart moment also and figured a double loop lacing may be a nice finish. Brain fart moment as I just finished lacing a belt this way I'll try a test on a strip with some 2oz calf and see if I can achieve the clean stitching needed. I appreciate the input

Hello everyone. I am making a bag out of Stoned Oiled cowhide. I have tried skiving and folding and don't believe I will have much luck with this method . Of course burnishing is out. Looking for some tips on what people believe would be the best method of finishing the edges. The majority of the bag will be sewn inside so mode the edges will not be exposed except the flap and the inside edge. Anyway, I'm thinking a strip of 2oz calfskin wrapped over the edge and sewn on would make a nice edge. Is this the best way? Any other thoughts or ideas. Once again, thanks to the community for any support or ideas. Scott

Thanks Kevin, Didn't think of that.... I've watched the leather stress a bit sometimes when trying to get the needles through and missed the hole on the other side. Actually didn't think of using it to my advantage! Some great ideas to get me going. Appreciate all the input!

Ferg, Does this impact the strength of the thread? My understanding that gouging is to protect the thread from damage. Rushing seems to be the constant theme of most of my errors. Taking a break from stamping right now because the wrist is sore and eyes are crossed Thanks also for taking the time to respond! Scott

Tree Reaper, I try not to also but have a few recent projects that I would like to be reversible.

Hello Dwight, Thank you for the information. I find it amazing how something seemingly so simple can cause me so much confusion I do not have a drill press so I will work with the manual process and work from straight above. I've been working from sitting so this is most likely a contributing factor. I've worked a lot slower on this project as I was making numerous mistakes by simply rushing through projects. I've not had a lot of input on the forum but the people in this community have been great Anyway, I will work on cementing my two pieces together and take the time to punch from straight above. I'm thinking I'll need to post some of my projects soon for some c & c to see where I need to take my projects next. Again, thank you for taking the time. Scott

Hello all, I'm looking for help on gouging a sewing channel on two sides of leather. I recently worked on a guitar strap that had two pieces of veg tan that were to be glued and sewed together. I carefully cut a gouged then used the thong chisel but when put together, ended up with an extra hole that of course threw the project off. How do I ensure that I get lined up holes? I figured that If I glued the pieces together first and then tried using the thonging chisel, I ran the risk of punching on the backside outside of the channel. Any practices that make this easier to manage? Thanks, Scott

Thank you Dwight and thank you for the ditution instruction. I will order in a bottle and give it a go. I appreciate the voice of experience. Regards, Scott

Hello everyone, I've made a belt for my daughter. It was dyed and then I applied glitter with a spray adhesive. I tried adding a few layers of adhesive over the glitter but she still managed to wear off some of the glitter simply from wearing. Can anyone advise what will make a good top coat that will keep the problem from reoccurring? I'm worried about flexibility and cracking.

Thank you everyone. Some great ideas for me to try out. I appreciate the time taken to assist. Scott

I live in the far north and local aboriginal people use "ulu's" which are similar to the round knife. Again, youtube and various sites have instruction on their use. It appears the round knife is a creation from this traditional ulu. Hope this is useful

Thank you for your reply. I was beginning to think this wasn't considered a serious question. The conchos are horseshoes and only have a center screw to mount. This almost seems to be a design flaw because as you state, it seems that a physical stop tab should be part of the hardware. Again, any ideas on a solid securing method is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Scott

All, I am looking to make a belt similar to this one: Tandy Site Belt Example Simply, should I look at using any adhesive to keep the conchos from spinning? I'm thinking that a well sized hole will prevent the conchos from moving initially but after wear, they will compress the leather enough to start spinning around. Any thoughts or comments on what would best keep them in position? Thanks,

Thanks BillN, When I get a chance I'll take a picture of it and post for confirmation. Appreciate the time and knowledge... Scott

Thanks all, Part of the problem is that I inherited a tonne of tools and likely have a bit too much choice in what to use. I know my bevelling needs work and will continue to go on that route of practising. I have a multitude of swivel knife blades and think I need to spend some time getting to know them all before switching to another swivel knife. I like the way the ceramic cuts but seem to be stumbling on the really tight corners. I think I need to try the filigree blade. I have another swivel knife blade that is steel and has a red piece of glass or ceramic for the tip. Have not been able to find any info on this blade but it seems to cut in a similar fashion to the ceramic. So back to my original questions: Should I bevel one side or both sides on this bunny? Cutting: Obviously from the answers, simply more practice and trial & error with various blades. (I will try this) Again, thanks for taking the time to assist. Scott

Hello Everyone, Well, my first real post. I carved a bunny from a craft aid. The total size of this project is about 2 1/2 X 1 1/2 inches so it was a challenge to do the cuts with my ceramic swivel knife. I spent a bit more time on the face (top right side) and pretty much rushed the rest just to try and get a general feel for the project so, I know the main project is really rough. I found the cutting to be a challenge. Any advice for swivel knife on the small cuts? The bevelling was also tough. Should it still only be on the one side or both? The face didn't seem to come out right so cutting advice for here is appreciated also. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. Scott Rabbit