wnkleather
-
Content Count
18 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by wnkleather
-
-
Since seeing the method in one of Stohlman's books, I've been using a rawhide strip molded around d-rings (and other hardware), the rawhide being inside (and hidden by) the tab/strap/whatever is attaching hardware to item. Found it to be incredibly strong and durable. Does anybody still use this technique?
-
I am also in Chicago and saw 2 year old web page - must be disbanded, right? Some nice work in the gallery, though.
-
I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.
I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.
I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.
Thanks!
When my projects got too large and hands too weak to continue hand stitching I researched (as you are) all I could before purchasing my first machine. My initial confusion came from wanting one machine to sew all of my projects, from 3oz to 20oz. No single machine can do it all. I now have three and and am looking for # 4, mainly because I prefer to leave a machine set up to sew a certain needle/thread, without having to take time to make adjustments (I guess I'm lazy).
If you will not be making saddles/harness you will never sew 1" of leather. Even 1/2" is alot of leather. That being said, you probably want a machine that is capable of sewing 1/2". Try a cylinder arm with a flat bed attachment - it gives you more flexibility.
Call the dealers from this website. Super people that will help you through every step. Their knowledge is worth $. Try Ron at FERDCO, also fabulous service before and after the sale. I am a big fan of used machines from REPUTABLE dealers - they will not sell you something not built to do what you want, and have "sewn off" (i.e. tested and adjusted) the machine. If you can travel to one of these dealers, they will give you a terrific lesson before you leave with your new (or used) machine. If your machine comes in a box, you're limited to phone support.
I love hand stitching. It is therapeutic, makes you part of the leather, and can look fabulous, I just can't do much of it anymore. You can PM me if you have any questions.
-
The n/p in the description means they are nickel-plated, so there should be no problem with rusting. If in doubt, drop Le Prevo an email.
Nickle plated steel will eventually rust in outdoor environs. Nickle plated brass will eventually tarnish when nickle wears off, but still won't rust. Stainless steel holds up. I will definitely check with them as the Brits know their leather, harness, and hardware. Thanks again.
-
Le Prevo in the UK have them. See 'Loops' at http://www.leprevo.c...o%27s_steel.htm
Awesome. All I had to do was ask!! Thank you. Are you sure they're stainless?
-
Anyone know of source for quality 1-1/4" stainless steel loops or keepers? Have searched all relevant threads on this and other forums. Have searched the internet extensively. Lots of 1", 1-1/2". It figures that I find a 1" strap too narrow and 1-1/2" too wide for my bags. I get nice buckles in 1-1/4" stainless, can find no keepers. I prefer the look of a metal keeper to leather. I guess I would settle for nickle/brass if 1-1/4". No rust allowed.
-
On which machine?
I read all the time about first time sewers buying a 441 clone and they learn to sew on the first day after setting it up. Others take longer to overcome newbie issues.
The medium duty 227 type machines are equally easy to learn to operate and are more flexible due to the large number of different presser feet and attachments available for them, which are not made for the 441s..
With any of these machines the most important lesson is to firmly hold back both threads before you begin to stitch. Don't let go until you either cross back over the first stitch, or have moved on about 3 stitches. The second most important lesson is to learn where every oil hole is and keep oil in them at all times. The third most important lesson is to not sew your fingers!
stitch
If you were asking about my Union Lockstitch Machine, I will gladly teach you how to operate and adjust it when you come to pick it up. A video camera that records audio would be a big help to you.
Some day I'm hoping to own a needle/awl as I see your stitch quality on top and bottom. I've also read that since they are square feed, stitch length does not change with thickness, among other benefits. Right now my shop is in my basement, and it seems a daunting task to get ANY needle/awl down there, much less someday get it back UP !!
Another issue is space - 3 sewing machines, bell skiver, hydraulic press, arbor press, cutting table, work tables......not a lot of room left down there. When my adult son wanted to move back home I said he could throw his mattress on the cutting table every night ! (just kidding) I have family in Brighton, MI., when I get over there (now that lake effect snow is done), I would love to see your Union in action.
-
Here is a medium duty cylinder arm walking foot machine that sews up to 3/8 inch, with #138 thread.
I have been able to sew with 1/8 inch with both a Cobra Class 4 and a Cowboy CB4500. I changed to a #19 needle and used #92 thread.
While these machines sewed 8 ounces, they didn't do so without feeder issues. You see, the feed dog slots are very long and wide, to accommodate the equally huge feed dog. Soft, narrow leather straps may get pushed down into the slot in the throat plate, in front of the feed dog and sometimes, into the hole in the feed dog. The medium duty machine above has a much narrower feeder and plate cutout. It also has much shorter needles that don't flex as much as the long type 7x3 needles used in the 441 clones.
That said, I have learned that it really depends on what you are sewing on the 441, with small thread and needles, that can affect the outcome. I have no trouble hemming the cuffs on jeans, or leather coat sleeves, using #92 thread and a #19 needle on a big 441. But, trying to use it to sew the tip of a chap leather belt is a struggle.
You mentioned that you might look for a needle and awl machine. There is no Union Special needle and awl machine; they make garment sewing machines. There is a Union" Lockstitch" needle and awl machine. I happen to have my Union Lockstitch machine for sale.
BRAIN @#$%. How is the learning curve?
-
Say I'm convinced. How do I decide which clone? Must be cylinder arm. Rarely sew over 20oz total, 277 or 346 thread.
Say I'm convinced. How do I decide which clone? Must be cylinder arm. Rarely sew over 20oz total, 277 or 346 thread.
Since I have the 205 (and got it cheap), I'll probably want a machine for lighter work, say 138 or less, , still in cylinder arm, that way I have no real adjustments....do the machines built to sew 7/8" with 346 sew 8oz total chrome tan well?
I could even sell the 205 and look for a used, well maintained needle and awl, say a Union Special, if it were slow enough, and still get a lighter cylinder arm. Any suggestions?
-
Like I said in my original post. I have both a 205-370 and a Cowboy 4500. I've used both side by side, and do so every day. I actually use the Cowboy more, because I like sewing on it more, so it is setup for my higher volume items. The Adler is nice. It is finished better. The machining and polishing I would say are better in some areas. But as far as functionality goes, I prefer the Cowboy, so I use it more. I'm sure a Cobra Class 4 would be the same, since it's basically the same as a Cowboy. The Adler has some very nice features, but when I weigh them against the Cowboy, I prefer the Cowboy. They are both built like a tank and I can't imagine any part on either one being worn out in my lifetime. The lifetime warranty is worth a lot. You won't get that with the Adler. I'm not going to complain if my machine breaks down after 20 years and needs to be replaced. It paid for itself the first month I had it, so if it lasts 20 years I'm going to be very happy, and will gladly buy another or three if needed. Unless you find an Adler at a very good price, like I did, I would not recommend it over a Cowboy or Cobra.
Say I'm convinced. How do I decide which clone? Must be cylinder arm. Rarely sew over 20oz total, 277 or 346 thread.
Like I said in my original post. I have both a 205-370 and a Cowboy 4500. I've used both side by side, and do so every day. I actually use the Cowboy more, because I like sewing on it more, so it is setup for my higher volume items. The Adler is nice. It is finished better. The machining and polishing I would say are better in some areas. But as far as functionality goes, I prefer the Cowboy, so I use it more. I'm sure a Cobra Class 4 would be the same, since it's basically the same as a Cowboy. The Adler has some very nice features, but when I weigh them against the Cowboy, I prefer the Cowboy. They are both built like a tank and I can't imagine any part on either one being worn out in my lifetime. The lifetime warranty is worth a lot. You won't get that with the Adler. I'm not going to complain if my machine breaks down after 20 years and needs to be replaced. It paid for itself the first month I had it, so if it lasts 20 years I'm going to be very happy, and will gladly buy another or three if needed. Unless you find an Adler at a very good price, like I did, I would not recommend it over a Cowboy or Cobra.
Say I'm convinced. How do I decide which clone? Must be cylinder arm. Rarely sew over 20oz total, 277 or 346 thread.
-
As long as you get a machine from a good quality factory, and maintain the machine, it should last 30 years or more, even on a production floor, they just need proper maintenance. I have seen machines from the late '90s that run every bit as good as when new. I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability as the Chinese are careful to copy classic machines, where there are gazillions of them and parts will be available. If the manufacturer deviates from the norm, like bringing out a new arm length, then you will have to depend on that distributor until there are enough of them in service to get the notice of parts manufacturers. Today's clones are in some ways better then their ancestors, they are manufactured to tighter tolerance, and use robotics for drilling and milling.
Art
I'm not sold but you make good points. I'm guessing that when I need another machine I'll try a Cobra, Cowboy, or ? because I do read good things about them.
-
No they don't. China could not have made a 441 clone 20 years ago. I do have a 27 year old Juki that will give it a run for it's money though, might be better too.
Art
I'm sure it's sweet. I have a couple old Consews that are tight. I'm not questioning stitch quality, just machine longevity. If I spend $5000 on an Adler and it last 30 years, does $3000 on a clone get me 20 years? (I'm not sure a brand new Adler gets you 30 years). I am just throwing the $/year out there. (I have no affiliation with Adler or any machine sales). What I do like is that the clones make it more affordable for the crafter - but is it only short term? Will the specs change such that parts become unavailable ? Do leatherworkers have the economic muscle to make sure parts are available? After all, building mediocre, even low end products, that need to be replaced, is how the Chinese have taken over the world's manufacturing. 'If it fails, they'll have to buy a new one".
-
Just wondering if anyone has a 20 year old Chinese machine that sews like my 30 year old Adler 205?
-
built my first briefcase. much harder than i thought, but well worth it.
Tony
WOW! That's the kind of bag I like to steal ideas from (sorry).
-
all hand made, stitched etc. she doesn't use it so I will. Great comments from strangers.
Shame on her - I would use it every day!!
-
Looks great!. What did you line it with? What was your source for the LDPE?
You've inspired me to make something similar. I was thinking a 5oz exterior with the LDPE sandwiched with a thick fabric on the interior. Thoughts?
LDPE is from McMaster Carr, a big supply house. It's only 5mi from me so I can pick up - not sure about shipping $. Lining is 1.5oz pig suede.
I call bag a 'Carry All' because I made an 'office liner' to fit inside. When I'm done with work I lift out office = empty bag. Drop in 'range liner' - holds 6 handguns, magazines, ammo, glasses, earmuffs, etc. Done at range, pull range liner and drop in insulated waterproof 'cooler liner' and go party. Monday morning drop in office liner.
Liners add weight but I'm mot carrying bag for any distance. When I get old I'll put wheels on it. Make sure your d-rings and hangers are STRONG. If you don't have one get a copy of 'The Art of Making Leather Cases' Vol 2. FULL of ideas how to not waste time and leather. I've also shamelessly stolen ideas from many excellent bag makers on this forum - thanks to all. I admit bag is larger than most require - damn near a suitcase - but if I can't carry my office on my bike, boss won't let me ride to work!!
-
i just noticed your reply to this, LTL. i'm sorry i missed it.
i haven't started yet. i'm still working on getting the doctor-bag-type frame for the briefcase. i have found one on the ohio travel bag site, but two problems: it is 16" long and i want it to be 18".
second problem is that it's actually a doctor bag PURSE frame. i'm afraid it won't be heavy enough for a real working briefcase. consequently, my progress for getting things together has stopped. i'm looking for suggestions, but since no one has answered this thread, i'm not hopeful.
i might look into getting a frame made for me. but i have nothing to compare it against.i also looked on fleabay to see if i could buy a case and deconstruct it, but they are going for too much money - even the beat up ones.
i'm not sure what to do now.
I could not find a frame for the size I was making so I bought a 4'x8' sheet of .060" (1/16") low density polyethylene (ldpe) for $35. It is great for thermoforming. I WARMED a piece of the size I needed for bag and molded around wood form. Practice on some small pieces - 175 deg F is good. Glue and sew between bag and liner - an awesome stiffener - makes 6oz bridle like 12oz skirting. My design may differ because I needed to account for rain as I use bag as mobile office complete w/laptop and strap it to my motorcycle. I also need to carry blueprints hence the 'roll bag' on top. Bag is 8"W x 20" L x 14"H. All the hardware is stainless or nickle/brass.
Support material for a case
in How Do I Do That?
Posted · Report reply
I wet form most of my bags/cases and can use lighter weight veg tan by thermoforming Kydex or Boltaron over mold, then wet form leather over Kydex and mold. Kydex can be sewn through by using one size larger needle than normal and the right machine. 0.060" or even 0.080" thickness makes 4 oz. leather very rigid.