BConklin

Very cool holster - and a great design. I'm working on a hunting holster for my bull barrel Mark II now....been working on the design and template the past two nights. Last night I was toying with the idea of a mag pouch setup on the holster itself. Seeing how yours came out I might just go ahead with my plans if I can figure out a strap or flap setup that looks halfway decent and will secure the magazine so I don't lose it out in the woods. I'm sure glad I don't have a sight like that to figure out as well!

Mashed Potatoes and Beer: Breakfast of Champions Nice holster! Your edging in that shot looks perfect.

Thanks all - I did dye the edge - using the same dye I used on the rest of the holster. Actually - I see I did pretty much what Hidepounder describes. But I also agree with a poster later on in that thread who mentioned that much of this work can be done with a dremel. I used mine quite a bit and found it was very easy to control and shape the edge - to the point that I'm thinking I could leave my edger in the tool box next time and just shape with the dremel. The more I look at it - the more I like the effect I got on this holster. I think there's a potential in future projects for more visual interest in the edge that would be lost if I dyed it all a darker shade.

Thanks for all your help guys - I finished the project last night and posted pics here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29135 This is a fascinating hobby - I'm glad I decided to take it up.

My first attempt at leatherworking.... I've got a feeling the edge is supposed to have an evenly dark color - but I kind like the mottled look I got with spit, beeswax, a dremel with a felt wheel and an old, turned piece of ivory The leather is finished with a 50/50 spray of mop and glow - a gentle heating with a heat gun - a light coat of kiwi neutral and a buffing with flannel I'm calling it DONE!

I did take the time to dab a bit of barge glue into the gap in the seam with a cheapo stiff bristle artist brush doing one 3 inch section at a time. I clamped each section for a few minutes in my home made stitching pony. The seam closed up nicely and the excess glue came right off when I went to work on the edge with files and then with a sanding drum in the Dremel. Worked like a charm! Tomorrow I'll get a bar of that soap. Thanks again for the tips! I gotta finish this one before I start the next but I'm already champing at the bit....I've got some ideas I can't wait to try out.

Thanks for the tips and for the compliment. No belt sander but I have all sorts of wood files and sandpaper - do you think I should try to glue those gaps closed in the main seam before I finish the edging? The saddle soap treatment - do you rub the bar of soap on the seam? Or do you dissolve it with water then rub it in with the canvas?

and...as requested - the main seam. So far it's only been burnished with a light pass using a felt wheel charged with beeswax in a dremel tool. Next trip to Tandy I'll get some gum tragacanth I guess... Next time, I think I'll glue the lining in before I cut the pattern out and stamp the stitching holes. With this holster, fearing the stitching holes would not line up on the main seam, I marked the template for stitching, folding it over to punch through both the front and back at the same time on the main seam. Then I scribed through the holes in the template onto the holster - thus ensuring the stitch holes would be aligned. Then I wet formed the outside to induce that curve - then glued in the liner. The result was glue spots on the main seam that won't take dye or darken with burnishing. Question: next steps would be to finish the leather and then seal it? What products should I use? It's nice and stiff now and I don't want anything that will soften the leather but I'd like to use some home made preparation if possible.

Thanks folks! Here's a couple of photos of the backside. I designed the straps so that they can pivot on the rivets when you pull the holster off through the belt. I figured there'd be less stress on them that way - but the result is that from the lining side the rivets look like they were placed haphazardly. I don't have any strap end punches yet - these were all done with a draftman's compass and a nice sharp wood chisel. I misjudged where the hammer strap should be placed and had to cut a notch in the strap so it didn't bind against the sharp edge of the hammer. Even though it's a mistake - I kinda think it looks cool that way. I think next time I might groove the lining for the stitches as well - the stitches stand proud as they are.

I guess I muddled through on my own ...

I couldn't find a holster that I liked for my Ruger Old Army so I decided to make one.. Though I've never done any leatherworking before I figured it might be something I'd enjoy...I was right! I found there's a Tandy store not too far from me so I went up there, bought some leather and some tools et voila! a calfskin lined, custom fitted field holster for my favorite gun! The outer layer is 8 ounce veg tanned cowhide, the inside is 2 ounce veg tanned calf and the holster is hand stitched throughout except for two rivets on the rear flap to anchor those straps that come around the midriff and snap together. This setup enables me to take the holster off without undoing my belt. From tracing a template from the gun onto manila folder stock to burnishing the edges on the finished holster represents a whole bunch of hours of work but I thoroughly enjoyed the process. Though there are a few mistakes I'm quite happy with the outcome... especially since it's my first attempt. It's not bad looking at all. It's quite rigid and fits the gun perfectly and I think it'll do the job nicely. I went a little overboard buying leather so I plan to keep busy making several more holsters this winter. Come spring, maybe I'll have a custom holster for every pistol I own. :D Here's some pics.

Well - I came up with my own "solution". I went back to the template which was cut from heavy manila folder paper. I drew a line 3/16' inside of the edge alomost all the way around, then made marks 1/8" apart on that line with wing dividers. When I got to the welt ara on the back of the holster, I folded the template over and, from the front, punched the marks through the holse I'd already made there. Then I laid the template back onto the leather, pinned it to the leather with push pins at several of the marks, then with a scratch awl I transferred the marks to the leather. After that, I went all the way around punching each mark with the single diamond punch. After that, I cut my thread grooves and bevelled the edge. Hopefully - I will now have sttiching holes that line up perfectly pre-punched all the way around. Now it's time to figure out a good way to dye the leather...

Hello to all from a snowy Connecticut! For my very first leatherworking project I've chosen to make a lined field holster for my Ruger Old Army cap and ball revolver. I've patterned it much along the lines of the Hunter 1100 series holsters but with a hammer strap. I've made my template and cut my leather already (veg tanned 8 ounce for the front and veg tanned 2 oz calf for the liner) I plan to hand stitch the holster and I have fashioned a stitching pony from an old wooden woodworking clamp. I've purchased some tools on the advice of one of the salespersons at the local Tandy store but I'm not quite sure of the best way to proceed... My questions have to do with punching or stabbing the holes for the thread at the welt (if that's the correct term for the main seam) - I have a hand stitching awl, a saddler's groover, a four prong diamond punch (with tines separated by 1/8") a #6 overstitcher and a single diamond punch. As I understand the hand awl method - I'll groove the front of the holster and scribe the groove with the overstitcher, glue the edges of the holster, then clamp it in the pony and, at the welt, drive the awl through all 4 layers of leather (counting lining). It seems to me this method would not only be the most difficult and time-consuming but would most likely yield very amateur looking results at the welt as well. It seems to me that no matter how careful I am with the entrance hole placement, the exit holes will end up looking like a line of drunken sailors. Yes, I know that portion is on the rear of the holster - but I want to have a decent product. As I understand the diamond punch method - I'd groove where I want to stitch all the way around then lay the holster flat and punch through two layers of leather (counting lining). Then I'll clamp the holster in the pony and stitch away. This sounds much easier to me - BUT I'm wondering if I'll run into problems if the holes don't line up from front to back. It seems to me that if they're off, the welt would get pulled out of alignment. Another alternative I thought of would be to glue the welt together, groove and mark w/ overstitcher then make all my holes on the drill press. This sounds pretty simple - but it would yield round holes...I notice all the other methods yield diamond shaped holes and it seems it must be important for some reason I don't yet know... I'd appreciate feedback - even if it's to tell me I'm overthinking this.. Thanks in advance - Brian