lairdstew

Very good craftsmanship!

Twin Oaks and Katsass, thanks for the input. This is the first time I made this exact pattern and I will be sure to include your input when I make it again. The right side of the holster does dip a little lower so that will be something to pay attention to next time. I can get a decent firing grip on the gun but I think it could be a little better. I will dip that side down a little and raise the other up to protect the rear sights. One of the more recent holsters I made was for a Kahr p380 and I had to make that thing three times to ensure ample grasping room. What a pain! Thanks again for the help. The members here have provided an invaluable resource for us enthusiasts! Laird

Thanks for the input. So, should I just cut out the sweat guard a little to not cover the mag release? Like a notch or something? As for the sights, should I make the holster flare up so that it hits right underneath the rear sights? Laird

I am hand sewing. I do not know what size awl I have but the needles I am using are #0. The thread does not have a size on it that I could see, its just waxed thread from Tandy. There is a pic I just posted on a thread started by me in the Holster section: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41693 Its not a very good picture but the batteries on my camera are dead. I will let them charge and post a better one later. How deep are the stitching grooves under the stitches? When I first started I was not making them deep enough and the thread was sitting above the leather a little. I started grooving deeper and I think they look better. I was told that the holes should be small enough that they close up after you are done sewing. I still need to work on that but its something to shoot for. Laird

I was thinking the holes were too big. Your pieces look really good otherwise. Just some constructive criticism. Laird

I am no expert, but what are you using to make holes for sewing with? That looks like the one area that could use improvement. I use an awl. It takes a lot of practice but the results are worth it. Make sure it is sharp too. Your cuts on the leather look really good. Laird

Finished the holster this evening. I think it turned out pretty well. Not perfect, but pretty good. Thanks for the tips! Wet molding the back did the trick. Laird

Thanks for all the help. I have it sitting in the basement right now waiting to be wet molded. I'll do that tomorrow and post the results. Laird

Thanks Mike and Twin Oaks! I understand that the stingray won't take a mold. Now that I have the inlay glued in, should I proceed as normal (i.e. glue, stitch, mold)? With the only diference is that I cannot bone the front of the holster. Sorry if I am not making myself clear or if I am too slow on the uptake but I don't want to waste a nice piece of stingray. Right now I have three panels, a thin top with inlay, a thin middle with nothing, and a thick back of the holster. Should I go ahead and glue all of those together, stitch, dye, then wet mold? Thanks again, Laird

Ok, thanks for the tip! So, should I glue and stitch everything together now like I normally would? Then I will wet mold the holster but only in the back.

I am working on a pancake holster for a 1911 with a stingray inlay and I need some help. I have cut out all three pieces that I will be using: 1 thick piece for the back; 1 thin piece for the middle; and 1 thin piece with a window cutout and stingray glued in. I already dyed the top piece and burnished the edges of the window before gluing in the stingray. Now I do not know what to do. I want to bone the holster for retention but when do I do it? Should I glue the back and middle together first, then wet mold, then glue the top piece with the inlay on, then stitch all three pieces together? Or should I glue all three pieces together, stitch, and then wet mold? Thanks in advance for your help! I have been lurking for quite some time and learning a lot, but this is the first time I couldn't find an answer to my question just by searching. Laird