Lee Jr

Thanks, I hadnot seen this before, i cut the sheepskin stitching pulled it back and it was a copper rivet. Torch and silver solder fixed it, it was easy, Lee Jr

Howdy, I have a front breast collar D that needs replacing, ( the rawhide strap that holds the D ring broke) what would normaly be a copper rivet has a silver floral cover I dont believe its a chicago screw ( I cant feel a screw cover under the fleece ). The rigging plate also has a silver cover on what would be a copper rivet that shows. I have lightly tried to unscrew it but i dont want to damage the cover. Could this be a silver cap glued onto the rivet? Lee Jr

Thanx guys, I cut up also but seen it cut down awhile back and was wondering if I were was a right or wrong or stronger way.

Saddlemakers do you bleed saddle strings up or down?

Howdy, I don't use a sewing machine much but a friend has a Ferco 2000 that he let me use to stitch shepp skin on saddle skirts and every once in a while it will break a needle, the machine will work fine on new leather but the repairs when going back in old hole become a problem. Does this happen with the other Juki look alikes. Thanks Lee Jr

Ben, thanks for the research & imput, Lee Jr

Thanks everyone for your imput, I have been around a old timer that does everthing the way he was taught, which was lacing or using Al-Ray ( I think thats what they were called & you can not find them any more) adjustable buckes to the sturrip leathers, so when he was asked to adjustable buckels he always used horizontal holes, ( Blevins now ) he always used the best leather & the thickest side was were the holes were punched for the stirrup leather. I would always see verticles on other saddles & some had a second strip of latigo sewed over the strip were the holes were punched. Thanks Lee Jr

How about some opinions of what you use for Blevins, Horizintal posts or Vertical posts and why and has anybody used the four post Blevins?

What I have done is use # 12 copper rivets, I like using the metal sliders and coveering them myself. I can put the rivet were I want and do not have to try to find the holes that are already there. Although just use a awl to find the holes, punch one side first and insert rivets. I use a 2" or so of metal flat stock the same thickness as the inside of the slider, this is the anvil for the rivets. The rivets, I trim so they are maybe a fraction longer than the leather and slider. Hammer rivets, there won't be much of a backing on the rivet but you don't need much. The leather should be a little wet for abit of a stretch. The leather shoould be log also so you can pull it and mark were you want the holes I use 3 rivets both sides. Punch the leather than mark the slide and drill the same size as the #12 rivets( I don't know what that is off the top of my head) I use barge cement on the flat side of the slider and the leather, let the cement dry. then lay the leather and put in the other side rivets and fassen, just like the first side, you can them trim the leather. Just like brand new with leather that will oil up the same as your sturip leathers. I hope this was not confusing. Lee Jr

Thanks John for that web sight, there is alot of thread info there that i did not know, Lee Jr

Thanks for all the help, I knew i could get some awnsers here, Thanks again, Lee Jr

I would like opinions on the best type of thread ( nylon, polyester,linen ect. ) for saddles , motorcycle seats - stuff that will be out in the weather for part of the time. I have been told that nylon will rot if out in the weather (rain, sun), Lee Jr.

Thanks Keith, I apreciate the reply, Lee Jr

Thanks for the tips, I will put it in my notes for the next cantle I do, many thanks, Lee Jr.

How about some help with cantle binding stamping or tooling. Before or after it is on? what thickness is the leather? were on the side is it cut from? i just covered a 2" cheyanne roll that I basket stamped before I put it on & it doesn't look so good after the stretch. Any helpful hints? Lee Jr