hosscomp

Welcome Aaron. I am relatively new at this leather work myself. I started this year with that very kit. I got my money's worth out of it in learning since it was my first exposure to leather working. I am actually using the belt and the wallet now. I am also still using most of the tools: the mallet, punch, swivel knife, dye, and some of the stamping tools. A word of advice if you are a total beginner like I was. This kit does not have what I would expect for step-by-step directions. The how-to's are all there with included patterns and general instructions, but there is no clear cut starting place. I had to read through material a few times and study it before I finally just dove into one of the projects. Also, it doesn't come with any scrap leather to practice on. So I suggest starting with the simplest items, like the coaster or key fob, and treat it all as a learning process. Expect to mess up a few times. Some things are hard to teach from books, like making sure your pattern is laid out correctly on the leather. Yep. I ended up with my pattern going from front to back on the checkbook cover rather than across the front. But I am learning to be more careful now. Anyway. I think that kit is worth the money, and welcome aboard. I am about to post some pics of my first real project on here. Ron

Thanks, Tooling, Since my last post I went to Tandy and bought a bunch of needles, two of which were the S curve type. I tried them and they work much better than the single curve ones I tried, but I switched to the blunt straight needles to finish that seam. The straight ones worked well since I was sewing it wrong anyway. But, thanks for that link. I will keep it handy. And good luck in your new hobby. I am a 60 year old learning this because I just love it and it will give me something to do when I retire from computer programming. Thanks again, Ron

Wow, Skye. This really helps. When I started, I was wondering if it should go all the way through or just channel to channel and even looked it up again, but I was seeing that picture as an angled shot rather than a cross section as it is clearly labeled. Any way, I have completed that seam the wrong way now and am going to make it work even if I have to cover it with something decorative. But I will know how to do the next one right. Thanks again, Ron

]I got about half of the 8" seem sewed. Broke a third needle pulling it through with pliers. I finally gave up on using the curved needles and straightened them back out, which probably weekend them. I I don't know how Al does it. Trying to angle a curved needle with the least amount of pressure flips it the opposite way. I also started using a small piece of leather to push the needles through and save my thumb. It doesn't look very good. Fingernail marks all over it and the lips are protruding instead of flush. But I have to go through the learning process. I am open to any and all suggestions on how to improve this other than lots of practice, which I am already aware of. Still haven't received a catalog from Sheridan and am still looking for good needles and awl blades.

I didn't see any blades to go with those nice awl handles?

Thanks, awl. For my first non-kit project I chose a tubular case, which is probably not the an easy project. I finally gave up on trying to follow Al's directions exactly because I just don't know enough to get them to work correctly. I couldn't poke a single hole with a curved awl blade. I could't find the right sized wood dowel for a form that I could use tacks on. Finally found a Lysol can that was the right size, but didn't want to cement it to the can because I had cemented a felt liner to the back of the leather. I couldn't get cement to hold it just on the edges and I don't see how I would ever be able to stitch it if I did. I used a three pronged chisel to go ahead and punch the holes, formed the leather into a roll and wrapped it in a towel so it would hold the tubular shape, started sewing it without a form with two curved needles from Tandy. I broke one of the needles on the first stitch trying to pull it through with pliers. I then took a Tandy straight needle and curved it with heat and pliers, and polished it. Replaced the broken needle with it then broke the second original curved needle on the second stitch. After spending as much as I have on these tools, books and leather I am determined to learn how to do this. So I bent a second straight needle into a curve, sharpened and stropped a straight awl blade to punch the holes larger as I go. Those curved needles are a pain to use. They keep turning the wrong way. Even punching a larger hole I still have to use pliers to pull the needles through. So after about four hours today I have the first four stitches. I hope it gets faster. I may have to take one of Tandy's classes. Any of you ever taken one? I looked for those Bob Douglas tools online, finally emailed Sheridan Leather and they said their tools are only sold from their store and not online. So they are sending me a catalog. I'm sure it is boring, but this venting does make me feel better. Thanks, Ron

Ah, the joys of learning. I am obviously using the wrong tools or don't know what I am doing. Probably both. I got an awl and a curved flat blade from Tandy, gouged and marked the holes on 9-10 oz leather for making a tube and tried to punch a hole. I couldn't even get it through one side, with bees wax on it. I then went to the three pronged chisel and started punching the holes. On the first one it took me 5 minutes to get the tool back out of the leather. I then poked the chisel in bees wax and overlapped one hole, punching two new ones and it got a little easier. I had to jerk hard and brisk to get it out each time. The curved, flat awl blade (the only curved one I could find at Tandy) seemed to have a shorter, steeper curve than the ones shown in the AS books. Looks like I might have to bend one myself to sew the tube. I also may need a larger handled awl. Where do I get an awl and blade of the quality you are talking about? Would the Tandy blades work if I sharpen them? Also, where is a good place to buy needles? The assorted set I got from Tandy had two curved needles, but were different sizes. No two of the straight ones were the same size either. Thanks, ron

Yes, I did, Sandy. I even explained what I needed it for and that it was likely in crystal form. But the Bar Keeper's Friend does the job and costs less than $2. I went to their web site and the ingredients was listed as oxalic acid. It also works great on counter tops. Thanks, Ron

Hmm. How about a wood disk attached directly to the leather with upholstery tacks or something similar, since the sleeve is already cut and tooled? Do they make upholstery screws?

Nooj, How would you suggest connecting two cups together, by sewing a short sleeve, or what?

I am now trying to make the welt, but having trouble getting this doubled 9 oz leather to form into 2 1/2 inch diameter circle. That is the only weight leather I have on hand. Would soaking it, skiving it really thin, or cutting it in half down the length of the welt help? It doesn't matter how it looks since it will be out of site. Or will I have to get a more supple leather or other material?

Thanks, all. I went to the local Kroger today and found the Bar Keeper's Friend next to the Comet. Mixed a teaspoon in a pint of water and it seemed to do fine.

I read that I should clean my tooled leather with oxalic acid solution before dying it. My local CVS drugstore didn't know what I was talking about when I asked for it. Is there another name I should ask for it by? Or will something else work as well?

Thanks. I read that also. If it cost around $5 it may be worth it.

Thanks, ClayB. I suspected that. Before buying any more e-books I will try to be sure it will fit on letter sized paper.

I bought a couple of books (hard copy) by AS and found them to be excellent. Of course each of his books refers you to one or more of his other books for more details, so as soon as I started reading "Coloring Leather" I was referred to a couple of other books, and being in a hurry and wanting to save some money I bought the eBook version from Tandy's Leathercraft Library. One was "How to Color Leather." This was a surprise because that's why I bought "Coloring Leather," to learn how to color leather. The other one I bought was "How to Carve Leather," which I was referred to from "the Art of Making Leather Cases." The "How To Color" e-book was very easy to read with Adobe Reader and Adobe Digital Edition, but "How to Carve Leather" was terrible. I even printed out a copy but the detailed instruction in the captions were too small for reading. And, yes, I did print it landscaped, as it is laid out. I then tried using custom fit in Adobe Digital to blow it up, and could finally read it by laboriously panning around to different parts of the page. But even then it seems that they tried to place too much in too small a space to be very useful. It looks more like a pattern book than a how-to book. I would rather see large clear instructions on a few patterns than skimpy instructions on many patterns. Finally, my question is: If you have a hard copy of "How To Carve Leather," is it readable? Is it printed on larger than letter size paper? Do you find it useful or do you have some of the same problems I have with it?

Thanks. I just checked out their website. Are those prices per square foot?

Al S. recommends using unwaxed thread so the ends can be frayed easily. I never understood what he meant. Can someone explain?

Standard? Couldn't find it.

Thanks guys. Why couldn't I think of that. I think I can do either of those four methods, but will probably use the welt since that seems the easiest and will certainly keep the pucks from passing through. If I do a decent job I will post a picture. I still need a few more things before I start though. Thanks, Ron

Thanks for your replies. Together they answer my question. Since I am a beginner I will start with the chisel set and consider using the awl if I ever get close to being a professional. But, then on second thought, would it be advisable to start out with the awl?

In some of my earlier reading I saw the Thonging Chisel Set recommended for punching the sewing holes, so I ordered one. Now I am reading the Al Stohlman Art of Hand Sewing and he recommends using the diamond awl and punching one hole at a time. Does it make a big difference for a beginner? If I pre-punch the holes with the chisel set will the item be of less quality or look unprofessional?

I plan to make a tubular case that will be similar to two dice cups with the bottoms glued together. It could be one long tube with a separator in the center and lids on each end. It is to hold red shuffleboard weights on one side and blue ones on the other. So I either need to make two cups and connect them, or figure a way to sew the bottom in the center of one long tube. I am too new at this to get my head around a good way to do it.

Thanks. I was thinking the wood was necessary to put tacks in, but I was just reading in Al's hand sewing book that that you can use jars, pipes, and such, but will have to glue the seam for sewing. I am not quite ready to get into woodworking yet, so I'm sure I can find something the size I need or find someone with a lathe nearby that will make a dowel for me. Thanks again, Ron