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Merlyn616

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About Merlyn616

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Utah
  • Interests
    All things leather. Mediaeval and Renaissance history. Gold and Silver smithing. Fine Carpentry. Blades. Shoemaking. Bootmaking. Costuming. Theatrical and Special Effects makeup.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    tooling and currently learning shoe and boots making
  • Interested in learning about
    shoe and boot making
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    search engines
  1. I've found that the best way to get a tool roll for anything is to make it in heavy linen/denim (for light tools) or heavy canvas (for large tools) before committing to leather as a way of coming up with your own pattern. You can get remnants or sometimes scrap pieces at most fabric stores or just buy a half yard for a couple of dollars and with some experimenting get the ideal spacing for the tools you are making the roll for. If you use a loose running stitch for your layout and then mark the stitch lines after they are where you like them with a washable marker the fabric can be reused, or with permanent marker it makes a permanent pattern. then again a lot of people like the fabric rolls. To finish off the edges you just have to either roll the edges or add a selvage tape. Folded over leather scrap strips work great for this. If you make a permanent fabric roll you will of course want to use a better stitch between compartments. As for closing, I usually put a grommet at one end and tie a long enough lace to wrap around three or four times with a tag end about 4 inches long to tie it off with. For lighter tools like punches and such overstitching at the end of the seams is adequate, but for heavy tools like wrenches and chisels I always add a rivet at the top of each stitch line to help reinforce the material. It really helps prevent tear outs. One added benefit of making a fabric pattern, while figuring out your pocket layout, you can use pins initially until you think you have a good fit, and then do a loose stitch to make sure. If it doesn't fit quite right, you can change it the fit without wasting the material. Just a little bit of thread. And this will work for any type of tool set you can think of that will fit in a roll.
  2. John, I have had this se problem with mine and found it can be as simple as missing one of the lower thread guides as the cause. Don't overlook the possibility of needing to use a different type of needle. I've also found that rotating the tension spring up to about a 70 degree angle (or higher if need be) instead of the 40 to 45 degrees they are usually at makes a world of difference in eliminating bottom loops. The fact that your material is slipping back toward you is definitely a presser foot issue as well as a contributing factor. I do a lot of historical costuming as well as leatherwork and deal with similar issues on most of my machines frequently. Try sewing silk and satin over buckram and heavy canvas to make a 17 th century dress mess jacket if you want headaches. Don't get me started on hats..... Good luck and Ihope you get this solved.
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