mitkomont

Hi everybody, I am currently working on a combined project - woodworking and leather. I am making a folding stool, similar to the one on the photo. Any ideas on how to attach the leather seat? I want to make it 2 layers, so it is stronger. Do you think it will be OK to just fold the leather around the bearing wooden elements and then sew it. Will I be able to fold 2 layers of thick leather so it is even and can be stitched? Will the stitching make it weaker? Any other ideas, maybe small nails or screws to attach the leather? I am still working on the wooden part and the leather comes last, so I am open for any suggestions.

Can someone be helpful with some info about these machines cons and pros and the type of work they are best at?

Hi CowboyBob, thanks for the prompt answer! Seems like you know your way around those things. I can currently choose between this one (Singer Class 7) and a Singer 132k6. I know that probably neither of those is on the same level as modern machines, neither functionally, nor precision-wise, but they are cheap. I would probably be paying $300 - $400 dollars for each of them and the owners claim them to be in good working condition. And extra bobbins, pedals, thread etc. will follow. This is much cheaper than paying $1000+ for something more contemporary. Regarding parts, I have Germany close by and I have not researched it, but I speculate that if I need parts, this will be the place to go. I am looking for a machine which I can learn sewing on, I am inexperienced, I have an old Adler 30-1, which I got for a penny and bought it for fun, but it doesn't really do the job with solid vegetable-tanned leather, it's more suitable for thinner skin, like pigskin or similar. I want to use my new machine for stuff like sewing along the edges of belts (3mm - 5mm thickness), sewing strong tote bags and leather cases (2.5mm + 2.5mm = 5mm thickness or more), but also the occasional wallet or clutch purse with thinner leather, but not paper-thin. In any case we are talking vegetable-tanned leather. I do dye, finish and buff my leather carefully, so rough marks from feeding mechanisms are frowned upon, but they can be tolerated to a certain extend. If we have to compare the two - (Singer Class 7) and a singer 132k6. Which one is better?

Hey everyone, I want to buy a machine, which I can use to sew leather (have some experience with hand stitching). I have found one for sale, but the guy doesn't even know what model it is, he says it is some kind of "Singer". Can any of you recognize it and tell me what model that is, so I can research it and see whether it fits my needs, before I drive out to see it. It looks intimidating, I think it is for very thick leather.

Hi Horseshoe, I give the edges some "Edge Kote" Fiebling's and then use the edge slicker. I want the edges to have the right look, how do you think is the best way to do it? Thanks

Really nice tutorial. I especially like how you attach the buckle and the D-rings on the back - very neat and good looking. The whole process is quite time-consuming, but the results are worth it I guess.

I made my banner myself using Adobe Illustrator. My logic was maybe a bit the opposite - let the things I make speak for themselves. No need for a professional logo, which also costs a lot. But I guess it depends on what scale you are trying to succeed, a skillfully made logo can probably make a world of difference.

I've got an Etsy shop as well https://www.etsy.com/shop/TeLeather What do you think about my stuff, the items I make? How about the quality and the setup of the photos? I wish I had some more sales