ZARDOZ the GREAT

HOW-DEE... Question It's been a bit and I want to be sure that I am doing this right: For a cartridge belt (old west), we measure around where the belt will be worn, with the proper clothing, then add 9", correct? This means that for someone who measures 46", I would cut a 55" strip, with the 9" being the tongue that goes under the belt overlap. Or is there a better way? Thanks!

Thanks

Thanks. Good points.

Here's a question: I have a couple of big pieces of upholstery leather; the kind used for car seats. I was given it by an ex girlfriend who worked at a major car manufacturer. This has some kind of coating on it to protect it. Do you think this wold be suitable for a lining-especially for a belt, maybe with the rough side out? Or maybe not worth it, as the leather for the belts and holsters I am using is 9-10 oz.

Ah! Your idea of using two layers of thinner leather is a different thing. I was looking at two layers of 9 and that seemed too much, but two layer of 5 or 6 would different then. Maybe I can try a belt using what I already have : 9 oz leather, with like a 3 oz liner. I started making the belts in a slight crescent by wetting the blank and then putting it into a plywood "notch" sort of to dry. This has been only one so far, single layer, 9/10 oz and it has held up according to the wearer. I will continue doing it this way as it seems to work. On that belt I added the bullet loops afterwards using another narrower piece of leather and the loops were canvas. However, I will be making three belts soon for one person, and I think cutting the bullet loop holes and also adding the loops before the belt is wet shaped will be much easier and better. I think doing the shaping with empty cases in the loops will be best.

Good points. The belt is for Cowboy action shooting. And I see your point: when I have carried something like a 1911, a soft belt is just awful with the sagging. Makes it feel much heavier. But with a cowboy belt, a 9 oz, 2.5" belt seems to handle the load much better for me, especially with the holster and pistol riding lower than a 1911 (in a modern setup). I may have to make one line to see how it compares to unlined. Thank you!

How-DEE! I tried searching but no luck. Regarding western gun-belts (authentic style, not buscadero), How many of you line them and how many don't? Why/Why not? Is there a benefit to lining that outweighs the added thickness/expense/labor? If you line, do you use the same thickness leather? Smooth or rough side out? Anyone ever line with something like thick canvas, felt? Seems to me that lining adds thickness which can be good, but also stiffness, which seems to prevent the belt conforming to the wearer, not to mention adding weight, which is a negative, especially when you add one or two pistols and the ammunition. Lining with the smooth side out seems to contribute to the belt sliding down or up easier. Lining with the rough side out seems to be no different than not lining, and adds extra weight and stiffness. As nice as lined belts may look, it seems to me that there are more negatives than positives. Same with holsters. I would like to read the opinions of more experienced makers. Thank you.

What about just a mixture of bee's wax and olive oil, in a paste? There's also the Aussie stuff that seems to be the same, in a paste. Seems like this would be simple, smell good, and protect the leather. without any plastic feel etc. Yeah, maybe not as permanent as the other stuff, but what's so difficult about redoing it once a month or even once a week if there is bad weather?

The Bianchi method seems valid, though I have owned two Bianchi cartridge belts that had no curve. That being said... did Bianchi ever explain cutting the cartridge loops on a curved belt? Unless it' as simple as cutting and adding the loops and then giving the curve by wetting and forming the belt...

That would work. I do like the lighter stitching though. Seems like the pre-curve would be more for thick, stiff belts.

That seems like a helpful technique, but what about the curve? Seems this technique would be detrimental to a pre-added curve, and visa versa. A moneybelt wouldn't have a curve, so this seems to make a case against it. Any input on whether the curved belt really makes a difference? Also, adding the stain etc. at the end will affect the stitching color.

Hello! I have a question about cartridge belts for Victorian era/old West styles. I've heard some people say that the belts fit a lot better if they are pre-curved. Some people say it doesn't matter. I've done the pre-curve by making a sort of wooden template, wetting a straight cut blank, and letting it dry in the template… and it took the curve and it works fine. However, my concern is cutting the cartridge loops on a curved belt. I have a straight cartridge loophole template, and it seems overly complicated trying to get those loops cut on a curve. I figure another option could be making the belt straight and then doing the curve by wetting it after the loops are on there and leaving the cartridges in the loops to prevent any warping. However, this seems like it would create its own set of complications with the lining, etc. Has anybody done this? I also would like to make some money-belts or better said money cartridge belts, and I'm wondering if it's the same deal with that. I tend to think that making all of them straight is fine and then, maybe, wetting them and adding a curve after it's all done will work fine also, but I've never done that before and don't want to reinvent the wheel. Looking forward to your input. Thanks.

Very good. Makes sense! Thank you! Deus vult!

Just to be sure: please correct me if I am wrong or missing anything... When cutting/sizing the gun belt, what I understand is to add four inches to the regular belt/waist measurement, so a size 40 would be a 44. Is this correct? This measurement, from what I understand, is from the belt buckle, where the prong touches the frame of the buckle? Or is it from the center bar of the buckle? to the center hole of the belt billet? I figure there should be some overlap of the belt body. Please advise. As of now I cut a 3"x59" belt blank. Waiting to hear back so I can cut correctly. Thank you. PS. I am wondering if I should take off a 1/2" to make it a 2.5" instead of a 3". Concern is that the belt and holster already have a little play, and the holster may travel with the gun for an inch or so as it is drawn. Obviously, removing a half inch from the belt width will aggravate that. Although I imagine the friction against the body will likely prevent that. The belts in these photos seem to have a curve, and they also look "soft", flexible, especially the one on the right. I though it was a money belt but when zoomed in, as it goes through the holster, it looks like a regular thick leather belt.

Interesting. Thanks! I have a bullet belt that has no liner. I like that the inside is kind of rough because it seems to help in staying put. I'll have to see which way I go in that regard. Thank you!