MCM Ranch

I would rather risk sounding like an idiot and get this machine running... It is a pretty standard 220 plug. I wired my exhaust fans in my paint booth, my welder, my dryer, and my range- all of which are 220 and work fine. For the sewing machine, I was a little lazy and pulled a pig tail off my dryer outlet, and installed another 220 outlet in my utility room. The machine then plugs directly into the wall.

It is possible I have some sort of sewing machine curse... Every sewing machine (of any type) I've ever owned to date has been such an unending source of headaches, that I hand sew - everything. Then I learned to tool. And saw the lack of attention to detail (and frankly lack of care...) that was going into the tack repairs I was sending out locally... Which left me unwilling to let someone else assemble the chaps, belts, bridles, belt, and other miscellaneous tack items I am building. Hand sewing zippers into chaps is just not on my to do list! So, I picked up a singer 31-15, cheap, supposedly just serviced and with a sample piece the tech had supposedly sewn...but no power in the shop where it was located. Yes, I learned my lesson... A year of fussing with trying to get it to stop missing stitches (and not be wanton to take off if it actually will pick up all the stitches) as I continue to hand sew.... I had finally had enough and went back to CL I found a Japanese built industrial leather cylinder arm machine with a 1/2 hp, 220v, three phase motor for a song. Motor date is 1978, very low hours, very smooth action, super clean. It supposedly had been purchased new and wharehoused until last year, when it was purchased and used for one specific project. The only complaint I had was marking from the roller feed foot even on 5-6 oz leather, but I knew that can be taken care of a few different ways and it has other feet. It sewed as slow as non machine sewing me needed, through over 1/2" of veg tan with almost no hesitation on the most thick portions (tho the machine did think I COULD go a little bit faster on the heavier section and it would have been more happy...but a little help with the pulley and it was fine) Brought it home. Wiring is not a problem, so I pulled a 220 leg, threw in an outlet, replaced the plug end to match the available outlet configuration, plugged it in. Motor came on, but hung (no rotational sound) and then burned a fuse in the switch box (on the machine). Spent days trying to FIND the 2.5x220 slow burn fuses, did, also found a loose screw on a negative connection within the motor as I was waiting to get the fuses (figured it must have gotten jostled in the move?). Ran thru everything logical w my voltmeter, everything looks good all the way through, fired it up... Again with the sound of the motor trying to turn without actually going.... So I am back to disengaging to clutch and turning the wheel by hand...which is at least easier on the hands than saddle stitching the chaps I've had on order for WAY too long! Is there anything else I might be missing with the motor that worked -perfectly- (and it was so quiet!) less than a week ago? I am so frustrated and just want to get to work in the finite amount of time I can dedicate to this... I'd much rather be up half the night working on my PROJECTS and not my machines Thank you in advance for your time-

What I am trying to avoid is that stiff, almost plastic like feel to the surface of the leather. Using thin coats of reduced resolene, buffing, then adding a final top coat of glycerine has helped, and the finished pieces are flexible, but the surface does not feel soft & supple...it feels like it has been clear coated. I suppose the difference is the way a new set of cheap, imported, stamped spur straps from the local tack shop feel, in comparison to a nice set of buckaroo leather reins, or a good, well used set of saddle bags.... The leather surface feels more like a piece of leather that was drum dyed with an oil dye. Just to try to be clear, it is not 'floppy' from too much neetsfoot oil that I am looking for, just a more natural feeling surface than one coated with acrylic. I am not sure there is an answer that still leaves good protection from weather....that is precisely why I am asking Thanks again!

Hi everyone, I need to first say I am from Oregon, so my finished pieces are all likely to see some amount of rain / weather, even if something simple like a belt or checkbook cover.... I do a lot of carving and embossing, and need the waterproofing to last, and to really get down into all the deeper recesses of my designs. I have typically been tooling, forming if needed, stitching, oiling, and then using 50/50 resolene and water, 2 light coats, and, while it does seal well, it leaves the final product just not feeling...like leather. I am just thinking the acrylics are not necessarily the way to go... I have had some success taking a bar of glycerine & working it in after the resolene applications, but, the finished feel still isn't what I am really looking for. I have also tried super sheen, with similar results. I have not tried bag cote or tan cote, and would appreciate hearing your thoughts on how these 2 products compare both on protection and feel. I am sure the 50/50 neetsfoot and beeswax suggestion I have seen on the forum would give a nice feel, but would not really protect the leather over the long term... I also have blackrocks, and pure carnuba cream on hand....but my concern about the waxes alone is again that I don't want rain drop staining on a 6 month old set of spur straps! I am thinking saddle butter, or (i suppose followed by as my homework seems to say) dri-boot, may be better but don't know whether they will have the lasting protection I am looking for. I would really appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience with these Ray Holes products, as well as anyone else who has faced & resolved...or compromised on...this issue. Thank you in advance for your willingness to share your thoughts & experience! Kate