JoshLSTV

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to try it out.

I like that color. Did you just oil the natural leather and then put a finish over it? Also, the rig looks great. That is one huge gun!

Could you please add me as well. Thanks.

I've already ordered one from there, but all their BlueGuns are backordered, and according to the website it says it'll be at least a 2 week wait.

Anyone have a blue gun for an S&W M&P Shield that they're looking to sell? I have a returning client looking who wants me to make a holster for their gun, and need a blue gun ASAP. Thanks!

My parents got me this set of chisels for Christmas this year. They easily cut my time spent stitching in half. I've never had any trouble stitching with an awl, but I've been looking for something to speed up the process and these chisels are well worth the money IMO. Especially at the price they're at right now.

All the holsters I've made the guns click into place and can be held upside down while shaking. However, the gun shifts around a little bit in the holster. Is that normal?

McMaster-Carr sells them in packs of 100 for just over $7. I'm going to order some next week.

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll probably do another holster for my Sig P229 in the near future. I'll apply these suggestions as well as a few things I noticed that should've been done differently the first time. I started a flashlight pouch today to bring in the stitch lines a bit and see if I can straighten them up. Hopefully I didn't bring the stitch line in too much. It's looking like it's going to be a tight fit.

Here are my first leather projects. My Dad and I worked together on the holster as it was made for his Sig P6. We made it a crossdraw holster because that's what he found to be most comfortable. I'm pretty happy with how both of these came out considering these are the first things I've ever done using leather. The molding on the holster could be better, but I need to get some tools for that yet. Currently I'm doing all the molding by hand. I tried using the end of a sharpie, but it left all kinds of marks on the leather which looked terrible. Some things I'll change on the next holster for the P6 will be to bring the stitch line under the frame closer in for better retention, make the reinforcement piece smaller, and cut a little more off of the body shield to allow better grip on the gun. The stitch lines on the mag pouch didn't come out how I wanted them to since it's a double stack mag. I think I'm going to angle the stitch lines next time so they line up straight. Anyway, heres some pictures of the front's and back's of the holster and mag pouch. Holster: Mag Pouch:

Awesome detail in the boning! What tool did you use to get such detail?

Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried a couple of them out using some scrap pieces, but I'm not getting any watermarks at all now even with running the piece of scrap under the tap. After looking at the picture again I noticed that all the watermarks seem to appear near stitch lines so on my next project I'm going to try these tests again to see what works best.

Would distilled water be a good option?

I am getting watermarks on my leather after my wet mold dries. I didn't think they would show up after dying the leather black, however, they are still visible in the right lighting. Is this normal, and is there something I can do in the future to prevent this from happening? I've posted a picture that shows what I'm talking about. The most noticeable one after dying and finishing is the one under the stitching for the magazine.

I'm new to leather working, and am looking to buy some leather to make holsters with. So far everything I've done was with scraps from Tandy. What am I looking for when picking out leather for holster making? I have a local Tandy store, and was considering picking up a single shoulder. However, I saw that Springfield leather has Hermann Oak sides for $5.49 sq/ft which I've read is better quality, and it seems that I can order a few sq/ft rather than buying the whole side which I don't need at this point. What do you guys think would be better? A single shoulder from Tandy, or a few sq/ft of the Hermann Oak side from Springfield? Keep in mind I'm looking at the cheaper C and D grade mix of Hermann Oak leather from Springfield. Thanks.