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About CoteCraftworks

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  1. I appreciate all of the great responses. I'm attaching a pic representing some of my work. I do have a Janome machine that can handle very light weight leather. I can use that for my wallet interiors. I haven't used it for that because I hand sew. With that in mind I'm thinking the CB3200 might be a good choice. The Dopp kit below is 8-9oz with 5-6oz soft top.
  2. I’m ready to move up to a sewing machine. Been hand stitching for years. I’m looking at Cobra machines but I need some advice. I can only afford one machine so I want to get the right one. I make small bags and cases, wallets including interiors, journal covers and messenger bags and belts/strapless. I’m hoping to spend around $2,000 or less. Should I be looking at a post machine or flat table like the class 18 or 20?
  3. I tried using finer sand paper since I already have it and it made a HUGE difference! I burnished the edge just using water after sanding with 400 grit and it looks beautiful. Regardless of the materials that I end up using to seal I'll use 150 grit to shape then go to 250 and 400 by hand to get the leather smooth. I'm picking up some saddle soap this weekend! Thanks for the tips, I had no idea there were so many different options.
  4. Thanks for the help. I'll have to purchase some items to try these. First thing is to find the Dremel burnisher, that will save my arms!
  5. I am making items for sale and I want to burnish the edges so they reflect like glass. I sand the edges with a 150 grit paper, dye, then use gum trag and a wooden burnisher. They look ok but not like I want them. I've made sheaths that I was able to burnish to a high gloss using the above steps. What am I doing wrong?
  6. My first holster was a bit difficult to draw while wearing it on my belt. This one is perfect. Very natural draw, thumb press on the leather back places my thumb on the safety, perfect for carrying cocked and locked. I tried resolene finish, I'm not sure if I like the high gloss look. Regardless, I love this holster.
  7. I'm looking for a source for Chicago Screws like they use on Hedgehog Leatherworks sheaths: http://www.hedgehogleatherworks.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDESC=N&ProductCode=H-AP They are an allen bolt with a grommet or washer.
  8. Um, I just used 100 grit sand paper (might have been 150) on a random orbit sander. Then dyed and burnished with a dowel. That's all I had to work with.
  9. Yes, soaked it in warm water. It bubbled and squeaked for a bit, when it stopped I pulled it out and it was very flexible and easy to form. In that state it doesn't hold the shape very well so you have to keep molding it as it dries. I'm very glad I cut the leather over sized so I could staple it down well outside of the stitch area. I've heard others say to make some relief cuts to get it to conform but I didn't have to with such a small knife. I put it in the oven for 10 minutes, took it out and did some shaping with a bone folder, then back in the oven for 10. Repeat. Question: Would you have left the pocket clip on or removed it? I decided to leave it on, I think it gives the sheath interesting lines.
  10. It's 8-9 oz veg tanned. I started with a piece about 3" larger on each side. I cut the top edge and used a grooving tool to make the decorative groove. Then I beveled and burnished the top edge. After that I soaked the leather for 30-40 seconds. I put my knife on a board and started forming. It wanted to relax so I stapled it to the board which helped keep it formed. Then I dried it in the oven. The lowest setting on my oven is 170F so I left the door open a crack.
  11. First attempt at making something out of leather. I'm loving this! I decided to leave the pocket clip on, it would probably look better without it.
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