Shady

Thanks again. The "Just in case" holder is actually for fuel but I could see it working for beers, er soft drinks. It was mainly a practice for dying and pattern making. Not sure what I would need to do to make it hold up when wrapped around a cold beverage as the condensation might mess things up over time. The basket weave stamps are the Tandy variety and left nice marks, but I will say that next go I will paint the "bottom" side so I keep the stamp faced towards me the whole time. Just a small variance in the tooling that I noticed.

Thank you very much.

Took some leather on deployment and finished the holsters/ bottle holder while I was out there. The seat I finished at home, with some advice of LW members. I didnt pay close attention to the tool I was using to gouge deeper webbing lines, so there are some "extra" marks. Oh well, still happy with my first large project.

Thank you. I think that's the way I'm going to go. I started by drilling holes at each cardinal direction in reference to the seat and then kept splitting the difference until I had holes around every 1.5 inches. I'm going to work on the seat next week. I got busy working on some woodworking projects and this week is full of training. I'll post some pics when it's all done.

I could really use some ideas from all of you. I'm kinda stumped on how to fasten my tooled leather to the seatpan. I had originally thought about running a sort of "skirt" around the under side, riveted every 3/8" or so, then lace the "skirt" and the top piece together but I have run into a bit of a dilemma where the pan and hinge meet. Theres zero space between the hinge and the pan. Take a look at what the pan looks like: Am I relegated to only doing the top and riveting/ cementing the piece directly to the pan? I plan on using some camping mat foam to give some cushion as well. Standing by for suggestions.

Here's a few projects I've been working on while deployed. [/url]

It's all tandy stuff. The belt blank, buckle. I used Chicago screws (I think that's what they're called) instead of sewing because I don't like the pre-installed riveted snaps. The Maker's Mark logo was just burnished in with my stylus. A major PITA that I won't be doing anytime soon. Text was traced on and Icut then stamped in the letters instead of outside, just wanted to try something I hadn't done before.

Here's an edited photo of the front side.

Sorry about that, didn't really think about it. I suppose I could blur out the last few letters or row. I followed the casing guide here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121 but I'll take your word for sure. Time to mess around with some more scrap. I wish there was a Tandy or somewhere else teaching classes nearby.

So here's a wallet I finished recently. I messed up and rotated the last letter on the last line, so this ended up sitting in a pile destined to never get finished or wait until I could buy some leather and punch out all the holes. Well I decided to work on the back side the other day and to my surprise my buddy still wants the wallet even with the bad letter. I think on some scrap I'm gonna try to do some resist and gel antiqe. I really need to sit with someone and learn some technique but until then here it is

I had waited around half a workday, should have just let it hang to dry another half a day. 10 shades might be an over exaggeration but it was substantial. I'll have to do some test dyes on scraps and see what the look like after a full day of drying.

Whisky bent, hell bound A belt for a friend I finished this weekend. I am a little unhappy with how much it lightened when I put the TanKote on it. I haven't used it too many times, is this lightning of the dye something I should expect? I mean it changed 10 shades lighter. Comments/critiques welcomed.