SooperJake
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Posts posted by SooperJake
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That looks awesome!
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Very nice, indeed.
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+1 on watching Eric Adams videos via youtube
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On 3/19/2016 at 1:19 PM, Dwight said:
A cocked and locked 1911 is without a doubt the single most safe firearm a person can carry other than one that is not loaded. No other firearm has the redundant and time proven safety systems built into it as does the 1911.
Good Sir, you have slighted my collection of XD/XDM pistols with this comment......GROWL!
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The best and most profound poems often appear, outwardly, to be simple constructs. Only through contemplation does the deeper meaning wink at us, if we are lucky. Here we have a beautiful interpretation of a poem constructed from leather and string.... no croc or python skin needed...just a wink sent back to you....if you are lucky. Nice one Dwight. More pics please.
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Thanks for the input, everyone. My biggest problem with Go Daddy was getting any exposure on the web. Every time I'd call them for help, all they wanted to do was sell me something. That seems to be their central focus. I don't need bells and whistles, I need exposure and traffic.
I can build the website easily enough from any of the template-type companies out there. But how does one get people to find it?
Jake
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How about a progress report on this old thread?
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Very nice for a first!
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I may have just answered my own question. I found a page of 30 reviews and the large majority of them are negative.
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Have any of you used web.com to build your website? If so, how is it working out?
I just dumped my GoDaddy account after a year of dismal results (read: no results), and am looking for an alternative rather than giving up entirely.
Jake
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From the grump: Two pieces of 5/6oz will be plenty. when glued up they will produce a piece of leather of 10/12 oz weight - more than enough for all but the largest and heaviest of weapons. Use a good quality of contact cement (I use Weldwood Contact Cement). Cut one piece of leather carefully to as close to the exact pattern as possible, then cut a mirror image slightly larger all around than the original. Smear the contact cement on the flesh sides of each piece of the dead cow skin. When the surface of each is JUST SLIGHTLY tacky, align the two pieces, the smaller (carefully cut) one atop the larger. I use a piece of wax paper between the two pieces, align them and gently ease the paper out - a little at a time while ensuring a good physical bond by pressing the top piece down onto the bottom piece. When completely stuck together, roll the piece flat with something akin to mamma's rolling pin. Put some umph to it as you roll. If using her kitchen necessity, this is best done while the dear lady is out of the residence, or at least elsewhere, for a substantial time period. Finally, find a stack of heavy books, a piece of polished granite or marble (preferably NOT from a headstone) or any SMOOTH surfaced item or combination of items, then lay those on top of your bonded leather piece. NOW, this is critical!!! leave the damned thing alone until tomorrow!!! NO peaky, no messing with, --- just let it lay there all alone. After it has rested over night (to ensure the chemical bond between the two pieces) just trim to ensure it appears as a single piece of leather with two smooth sides. NOW -- treat it as just what it is -- a single piece of smooth dead cow skin. Don't try to fold the damned thing and make the 'lining' fit - just ain't gonna happen. Being well bonded it should not show wrinkles, and if it does, they'll be inconsequential. Merry Easter Eggs -- have fun. Mike
Always informative and in a well written and entertaining style. Thanks Mike!
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I do not leave the gun or the mold in the holster for drying. After vacuum molding and hand boning, I heat-set the holster in a Nuwave oven for about 5 minutes at around 130°F. Let it cool a few minutes then reinsert the gun/mold for final detailing. I then let it dry completely at room temperature. No less than 24 hours. It takes a firm set with a low risk of cracking from drying too rapid. Afterward. I condition with Bick 4 followed by my usual finishing process depending on what is desired.
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Mistakes? They're called engineering changes....
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Nice one, Max!
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I am new to this and just finished my first for this ruger sr22. I am very happy with the results for a first, but have some questions. I get a little "bounce" from the gun on the belt if I walk fast or jog. I attribute this to the high carry (conceal style) holster. I assume that if I raise my belt slots on the holster body, dropping the gun a little on the belt, this will balance out the weight a little. Do you all have some advice about fitting holster style and balance to gun weight and shape? I realize there are probably an infinite number of combos. I'm just looking for some things to try. Can I get a rock solid hold/balance on the gun but keep the high carry of the conceal style pancake? This gun is pretty light, but I'm going to start one for my taurus pt24/7 next and want to make some improvements to make it ride just right.
Criticism encouraged beyond just the style or cut. I still haven't applied oil or finish, just dye. I'm working on some different burnishing methods too and then dye the edges again.
Try burnishing a freshly dyed edge on some scrap leather and you will realize a kind of magic happens. For dye, I like the Fiebing's oil.
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Casing your leather just like you would for tooling often helps with the detailing being crisper, especially when you are doing all the boning by hand. . Dunk the holster then bag it over night. Might be worth a try. Also, I think too often we see a holster molded too far, to where it looks like the pistol itself. That level of molding isn't necessary for retention. It might look cool to some, but I don't care for it.
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Just a note on vacuum presses and rubber. I tried to combine the two ideas, 40 durometer rubber sheet and a vacuum press. It doesn't work. I'm using these items for molding currently. http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Dura-Max-Elite-Polyurethane-Vacuum-Bag-2-x-4.html 2x4ft bag. http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Vacuum__Press__Items/Vacuum__Press__Kits/ the $82.50 kit on that link. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html that pump. http://www.sculpey.com/products/tool/sculpey-style-detail-tools-set-3 3pc ball- end tool set http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/products/tools/clay-working-tools/bone-folder and a couple odd pieces I made from whitetail antler or wood.
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Using my Cowboy CB4500 as reference, I see no way the holster plate could be used with the lower feed dog. The holster plate is too high above the feed dog to do anything . Perhaps we are talking about two different plates?
I ground most of the teeth off of mine and polished it, but still get mixed results . I haven't tinkered with it in a few months though.
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HO. Nothing better in my book. and get it from Ho direct if you can. I've tried Mexico tanned stuff and ran into dye issues. A white haze formed and I'm told it is/was because Mexican tanning uses some type of clay.
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Ask them what there intent is.
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Kat,
What I have been using is the waxed nylon thread. I saddle stitch most of my projects. Should I not be using the waxed thread? The sealer I use is probably giving the "plastic" look. I use Tandy's Super Sheen and usually do 2 coats. All of my dyes are the Tandy Eco Flo dyes. I know I am probably going to catch holy hell for that but my reason is simple I have to watch what products I use and what fumes these products. I hit the health lottery not only do juggle issues with the MS but severe asthma as well. Eco Flo doesn't send me into an attack. The other reason is cost it's cheap and when you're on a limited income cost comes into play. So if there are things I need to change let me know I am willing to try new things I just have to stay within parameters. My leather shop if you will is the upstairs landing. Don't have a garage to work from like a lot of guys do as well.
I've had decent results with Eco Flo " PRO" as long as I pretreat the leather with Bick 4 conditioner, wait 10 minutes for the conditioner to soak in, then apply the Eco Flo with a sponge just barely wetted. I also blot off the sponge on paper towel to remove excess material. The leather doesn't absorb water as easy after, so for wet forming you need to soak it more.
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I wouldn't make another one for him, once you rectify the first. Paid for or not. I would, however, ask him if he needs a holster for his flashlightHe keep telling me "if its a 1911 holster than any 1911 should fit it." After the third time trying to explain it I gave up.told him I would make one for his commander. On a side not his wife told me this is his standard thing to do with holsters.
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Tell me about your "Hot Box"
in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Posted · Edited by SooperJake
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Dwight,
Although my work took a sharp right turn some years ago, I had good success drying holsters in a Nuwave oven. Racking my brain to remember, but I think the lowest setting was around 105 deg. F. That's what I used, or the next setting up.