ruddhess

Yep, thick seams. Looking at the picture, I'd say it is all machine sewn. It also appears to be VERY complicated construction (I collect and fix old sewing machines and have made some of my own britches and tunics - out of fabric, not leather). This project is VERY ambitious. Good luck to you on your endeavor. I'm not sure what sewing machine they are using to make 'der lederhosen', but I'm sure it's commercial/industrial (and not "industrial strength" domestic like you sometimes see on eBay). Does the website tell what thickness of leather (looks like chrome tanned suede) they are using? 2 oz is common for garments and is not particularly thick for sewing on an old straight stitch metal geared domestic sewing machine as long as it's not too many layers. I have tried sewing chaps leather (4 oz) on sewing machines and it isn't easy on the ones I've got. There's a reason they work so well for making chaps - tough stuff.

I am new to this forum as well, but not new to working with leather. I have made a lot of moccasins and medieval style/type shoes and a few boots (made a pair of cowboy boots with Jack Reed back in the 90's, and a couple pair after that but not any since - not any cowboy boots that is), and a lot of sandals too. So here is my 2 cents for what it's worth since no one has responded to your question. Leather is notoriously slippery in wet conditions no matter what. One thing that helps is to put the rough/flesh side out, but even that gets slippery too, and it doesn't take long for the flesh side to get kind of slicked down after wearing them for a little while. If you used "hair on" leather and put the hair to the ouside, this will give traction better than any other kind of leather, but eventually the hair wears off and you have to find another solution. Moccasins don't actually last that long in the wilderness. I have read many accounts of native peoples carrying more than one pair on a trip to replace the ones that wear out along the way. You could tool the leather, but I doubt that would really make much difference. I have just recently begun using old mountain bike tire tread to put on the bottom of some of my shoes/sandals. It works well as long as I use a wire brush and "rough up" the inner side of the tire so the contact cement will adhere to the rubber. If you can find a 29" fatty street style tread (heck you could even buy one brand new and cut it up for soles - they don't cost too much), that might give you more "feel" for the ground while hiking. Even the mountain bike tire tread is pretty thin and still allows for quite a bit of "feel" of the ground - as long as your leather sole isn't too thick. There are a good many solutions to this "problem". Some people take shredded/crumbly rubber from old tires and mix it with contact type adhesive and put it on the bottom of soft soled footwear - looks like crap, but it seems to work for them. I have never tried it. You also can get some thinner crepe sole material (your local shoe repair guy might sell you some, that is where I get mine - or you can order it from suppliers on the web) and glue it to the bottom of the moccasins. It should stay on as long as you get it secured well with the adhesive especially at the edges. Rubber tire inner tubes can also be glued to the sole too - they are relatively thin. Also vibram sells thin tough sole material that I have heard a lot of people like. I don't remember the exact name of it, but maybe someone else on here knows what it's called (they make a bunch of different kinds). As I recall it was one of the most expensive one's they make, but I read several rave reviews of the stuff by "minimalist" footwear runners on the web recently. Hope this helps some. (Vibram #7175 Cherry Slip-resistant rubber soling sheet)

Good information about "weighted casting". (One thing to consider is the amount of stretching of leather that is going on when making a boot or shoe on a last - also different people like their boots/shoes to fit tighter or looser than others; I prefer the a very loose fit and leave all laces shoes/boots very loose and knotted permanently for a quick slip-on - but I guess that's the "ol hippie" in me coming out again!) The shape of that casting looks quite a bit like some of the medieval lasts (except for the rounded toe).