trekster

Just finished up my first attempt at an IWB holster. So far, I think I'm going to like it.

In regards to this topic... I found this thread especially interesting and informative. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42775&st=0

Yes, I agree. I've tried to think of some kind of household item that could be used to check "tension", but so far have drawn a blank.

Good idea... but I have a couple of questions and comments. 1.) What device are you using to measure tension with? And, where can it be obtained? 2.) Wouldn't it be neat if we could come up with some kind of a cheap homemade device (or method) that would measure tension? 3.) I wonder how the factory goes about setting up a new machine when they test them? Do you suppose they use an actual tension gauge, or merely guess at it? 4.) From my experience, I've found that the actual levels are not so important, as the "difference" between the two. That is, regardless of the actual measurement of the bobbin tension, the needle thread tension should be roughly TWICE that amount. For someone who wants a very tight stitch, they might have a bobbin tension of perhaps 2 pounds, and thus their needle tension would be set at 4 pounds. I think it would be interesting to learn which is more important; a,) actual tension levels, or b.) maintaining a specific difference between the two. ???? I use a small mechanical postage scale, but mine only goes up to 1 pound, so I can set the bobbin tension with it, by holding it horizontally and pulling the bobbin thread over the top of it. But it is no good for testing the upper tension. That gives me a starting point, and I usually adjust from there. Maybe Ben Keck, at Tippmann could give us some insight.

You were probably on the right track when you put the spool sideways. We run into the same problem sometimes with the thread that comes off the spool on a Tippmann Boss. Sometimes the coils will actually fall down and become entangled below the spool stand, then while sewing, you don't notice the problem and the change in tension can screw up some stitches. Some Boss operators have fashioned a different wire loop so the spool actually revolves (unwinds) on the thread stand as the thread is coming off, rather than coiling off the top. I'll bet you could make up a similar gadget for your Ferdco.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the 794 needle, nor have I ever used any. The one I am using is the 7x3. I changed it out a time or two, and my results were the same. What is your source for the 794's?

Actually, I'm using 277 thread in a 200 leather point needle. My leather came from Tandy, but I suppose it could be the problem, although piercing the leather is not the problem, it's the upstroke that requires more effort.

My bench space is limited, and I must share my area with my other craft - paracord bracelets. However, as Chief has iterated, it is extremely important to attach the Boss to something really solid. I have mine mounted to a 12" x 18" piece of 3/4" plywood. Then when I am sewing, I put the Boss on the corner of my bench and use two C-clamps to secure it to my bench top. When using my #277 thread, I found that the upstroke requires considerable force to draw the needle thread around the bobbin and cinch the stitch in two pieces of 8-9 oz. veg tan leather. I done everything imaginable to make the stroke smoother (lubricated metal moving parts, double checked timing and thread tension, etc.), but so far I've not been successful. I get a fairly nice looking stitch, so have resolved myself to the fact that the upstroke simply requires some muscle. I'll admit I was rather disillusioned, in the beginning, about the force required to make the upstroke, because I viewed , on YouTube. In this video it appears that he is sewing and both the down and the upstroke require VERY little muscle involved in EITHER the down or the upstroke. Also, it appears like his machine is mounted on a board about the size of mine, but I'm not sure his board is even secured to his bench. So, exactly why my Boss requires the "muscle" on the upstroke, remains a mystery to me - even today.

If I recall correctly, the Tippmann site has two "slightly" different manuals available for download, one for each type of casting. Be sure the machine is cleaned well and lubricated in all the points the manual shows. Setup thread tensions as the manual recommends... and you should be good to go.

It sounds like you may have tightened it just a bit too tight - that can happen. But it also sounds like you are on the right track to fixing the loop problem. I can understand you putting it aside until tomorrow; sometimes enough is enough, and it is good to just let it set for awhile.

What happened to the loop problem? Were you able to adjust the tension on the compression spring to keep the Take-up lever from falling down?

I think you mean AR-11, rather than CAR-11. Yes, when you move the operating handle down, the Bracket will come away from supporting the AR-12 Lever, but it should actually remain in the UP position until the needle thread actually pulls it down. If the Lever is falling down without the thread actually pulling it down, then this if what will cause the loop going into the material. I AM ASSUMING YOU HAVE THE LATER VERSION OF TAKE-UP ARM SPRING (Compression Type)! If your machine has the old spring in it, the following instructions DO NOT apply. (A new machine should have the later version in it.) Here is how you fix that problem: 1) Remove the thread from the machine, and remove the back cover. 2) With a socket or end wrench, loosen the Hex Lock Nut HS 101-1, located on the front of the machine. It is in the upper right-hand area of the casting on the front of the machine. 3) Using the proper Allen Wrench from the kit, slowly tighten the HS 98-3 Shoulder Bolt from the back of the machine. 4) While tightening this bolt, keep moving the take-up lever (by hand) until you can place it in ANY position, and it will simply stay in that position. For instance, you can move it to the top-most position, and it will STAY there. Don't over tighten it, beyond this setting, or the machine will get excessively hard to operate on the upstroke. 5) When you are satisfied the Lever has the correct tension on it, re-tighten the lock nut on the front of the machine. Sometimes as you tighten this lock nut, it will change the tension on the spring, so be sure you check it carefully before you consider the job done. It's not uncommon to make this adjustment more than once - just to get it correct. This should fix the loop problem as the needle goes into the leather.

Yes, there are two types of springs that apply tension to the take-up lever. The old style was a spring that actually lifted the take-up arm to the upper position. If your machine is brand new, then it should have the new style spring in it. The new style spring DOES NOT physically lift the take-up arm, but rather applies "compression" tension to the lever. If this new style spring is not adjusted properly, it WILL cause the loop problem. The spring was changed to the new design in order to allow the machine to better handle a greater range of thread sizes. Please do the following and tell me what happens.... Without material under the needle, lift the operating handle to the top-most position. Watch the end of the take-up lever where the thread goes through it. Now slowly lower the handle until the needle is just about ready to go through the needle plate. Did the take-up lever move down AT ALL? (this can be done with or without thread in the take-up lever) If the take-up lever moved, or fell down a little as you were lowering the handle, that is the problem causing the loop. To fix it, you will need to adjust the compression spring that is applying tension to the lever. Let me know what happened and I'll tell you how to adjust the spring - if it needs adjustment.

Well, no... that is not the fix for the problem. Without any material in the machine (and you really don't even need thread in the machine)... hold the operating handle against the stop in the full UP direction. Now take your left hand and while holding the handle tight against the stop; see if you can move the take-up lever UP and DOWN. If it moves up and down even a little, that is what is causing the loop in your needle thread as you make a down-stroke. The problem can be fixed by adjusting the bracket located on the needle bar shaft. Refer to the Tippmann Troubleshooting DVD to see how to do that. I'm assuming you have the DVD, as it should have been included with a new machine.

I too have found that Tippmann is not very timely with their responses to questions put on their Facebook page. That is unfortunate for people like yourself that do not have the same avenues for correspondence that we in the States have. I do know that the Tippmann folks were off for several days around the Christmas and New Years holidays, so they were not available to anyone. They are back now, though. I don't know what the serviceman meant when he said the "shuttle was moving too much". He probably has zero experience with a Tippmann Boss. The shuttle on ALL machines has some "play" in it, because the teeth on the rack gear are not perfectly tight with the teeth on the gear of the shuttle bar shaft. This normal, and can be observed in all machines. Yes, when operating the hand lever to lift the presser foot, it does require a fair amount force because you are compressing a very strong coil spring just above the presser foot bar. Also, if you have a "lot" of tension screwed into the presser foot adjustor, that will make it slightly harder to squeeze the handle. If a loop is forming when the needle enters the leather, there are basically two things that can cause such a problem. One, you may not have "finished" the upstroke from the previous stitch, so that the rack gear touches the limit bolt on the top of the machine. I doubt that is your problem, but it could be. The other thing that can cause the loop to form is the take-up lever is out of adjustment, and is not being raised to the full top position at the end of your upstroke. It is easy to check for this condition, and easy to fix. The Troubleshooting DVD that came with your machine shows you how to do it, and how to check it for proper operation. If you can't find the instructions on the DVD, PM me and I will tell you how it is done.

With a broken rack gear, I suppose it did sound quite awful. Are you inferring the unit was sent from the factory with the broken rack gear; thereby indicating poor Quality Control on the part of Tippmann? Or, could it have suffered shipping damage before it reached you? Those are two very different scenarios with two very different "cause" factors. In either case, I fail to see the connection between you receiving a unit with a broken rack gear, and the overall support to non-USA customers. Even if a phone call to their toll-free number is too expensive, I've never personally experienced ignored questions through their email. Perhaps I've just been lucky.

Seems a bit peculiar that a new Boss from the factory would have a timing problem of that magnitude. Was this a used machine from a previous owner?

Please my PM to you. Hold about 6 to 8 inches of needle thread to the right of the needle and slightly to the rear. At this time, do not route the needle thread UNDER the presser foot. It is also important to not put too much tension on the needle thread as you hold it to the right, and while you cycle the machine. If you pull too hard on the thread it will not be able to form the loop that the shuttle hook must pick up. Cycle the machine and you will feel the needle thread pulled towards the needle as the needle drops through the needle plate. Hold the thread lightly and let it move towards the needle. If the machine is threaded correctly and tensions are set as outlined in the manual, the needle thread should pick up the bobbin thread and it will pull through the hole in the needle plate. If it still won't come up... simply route the end of the bobbin thread up through the hole in the needle plate manually. Then route both threads under the presser foot and try some test stitching in some scrap material. Check and see if the machine will actually stitch through some test material. If it does not, you probably have some other problems that need to be looked at.

Could you tell me the Serial number of your machine?

A bench top, portable machine that will handle the big leather jobs. I don't have one (can't justify the cost) but if what you want is a bench top machine that will do the "work" - this would be my choice. http://www.artisansew.com/pdf/TORO-3200%20BT%2008%202012.pdf It hasn't been out all that long, but it sure looks like a honey of a machine.

Be sure the thread is unwinding from the bobbin in the proper direction, and that your bobbin tension is set relatively in a neutral setting. If those things are okay, may want to check the needle is seated correctly and the scarf is in the proper direction. Last thing to check would be the timing, to be sure the shuttle hook is always picking up the thread.

I gave her the holster last evening and she is tickled "pink" with it. I've seen her on the range, poking holes in paper with her handguns - and I can tell you, she knows how to use them. Her LCP has a Crimson Trace on it, so the holster had to accommodate that appendage as well.

Everything I know about leather crafting, I learned many years ago from a professional saddle and tack maker. The dowel rod is easy to work with in your hand, and when it gets too discolored and gouged up you just go get another short piece - round the ends some, and start with a fresh one.

No edge dressing. While the dye is still a little damp, I smooth the edges with the tools I described above. If anything needs to be touched up later, I moisten ever-so-slightly and work it by hand with my dowel rod.

I use a combination of a round plastic (maybe nylon) slicker wheel that I chuck up in my bench-top drill press, and a piece of 3/8" round wooden dowel rod. Thanks to everyone for your comments.