koolio

I don't want to risk a washing machine I'm afraid! Are you sealing the dye in with something? My jacket's going to be used in the rain etc. and I don't want to wax it.

It's not too late at all, thanks so much for writing in. I think you must be psychic because I only recently started thinking about doing this again! Your work looks excellent btw. I had some really poor results with Fiebings oil dye, I was using a black and have found it's always left a sort of purplish hue on the top, I don't think I want to use it again. They occasionally are depending on the model but the one's I've actually shown and my jacket are actually sealed in a satin. Well I'd want a penetrating dye get the aged look and then satin seal it for permanency. I'd not want a wax finish. I like what you've done with yours except for I'd be after a very dark brown/black look or black aged in parts/seams to a very dark brown. Just like the last photo I showed really (and in the same vein as you have done). I have the added problem of starting with a very light brown. Still have no idea where to start or how to go about it really, have had so many suggestions from leather redying companies, this forum etc. etc. and still pretty much a complete novice.

I would love to but they are in the States I'm in the UK This is the sort of dark brown I'd like to go to, not sure if it's possible. I'm worried the seams also won't be dyed.

Well I've spoken to a few people who dye jackets, I'm afraid it looks like I'm on my own. 1) It is prohibitively expensive and 2) there is a risk I'm not happy with it anyway. So I might have to do it on my own!

For anyone reading I finally just put these in the bin where they belonged!

Do you reckon a professional will be able to do it? If so I will definitely take it to one...

I think I may take it to a professional. I am not even a beginner, only done a motorcycle seat and that was flat black. The acrylic dye did not actually change the colour underneath, it just layered a black layer over the top. i.e. I can strip the black back to the brown it was originally. I actually wanted to have the jacket properly dyed not just a coat over the original which is what I think sprays do.

Really no one any idea?

Bump anyone?

Should I just take it to a professional?

I've been meaning to dye this jacket for a while now. It will be used in all sorts of weather so would prefer it not to run.. I'm sure I wrote about it on this thread years ago but it seems to have gone missing. So I have a bottle of ethylacetate to clean the leather.. And a bottle of fiebings oil leather dye.. It's a belstaff motorcycling jacket. I'm just wondering if just dyeing it with Fiebings will be enough or will I have to put some sort of layer on, I don't want a shiny finish. I've used spray dyes before but these have been on acryllic and always put a layer on rather than dyeing the actual material (for example VHT satin black vinyle dye spray paint) so I don't think they are suitable. I have no idea about leathers, so given what I've said can anyone advise me on how to proceed or how to test what leather I'm dealing with? Lastly I want to try going dark chestnut brown first and if I don't like it then all black, would I be able to redye with the fiebings if I went dark brown first? It's actually the same jacket as the one Brad pitt is wearing and the look I'd want to go for, is there a way I could try getting it to that faded antique look like he has (before I go all black if I decide so).

Well I think I've made some progress identyfing.. I think it's full grain calfskin leather...

Thanks Geneva thats a real long shot, I think I'd have better chance looking for offcuts at suppliers.. Anyone any ideas?

Hi again, Didn't know where to turn to then remembered this very helpful forum. I have some leather on the collar of a rare barbour jacket shown below, it's from a Barbour international jacket that is no longer produced called the Beacon. The leather can be described as supple and very smooth with something of a fine grain. I have several other Barbour international jackets which all come with the standard corduroy collar (which I detest and gives for a sore neck) and I know the corduroy can be removed and replaced by leather as I can see how the stitching has been done. Now trouble is finding the right leather, I recently ordered a load of samples in the UK but found all the samples didn't match. The best ones I've shown below: This first one has a great grain it is black embossed with a small grain pattern, is only 0.5mm thick, but is oddly very stiff and less smooth than the authentic article, it has a cheap feel, it's so stiff I can't properly shape it. The reason I can't use it is because I can only get the size below which is too small for my collar: Now for the next one. This is also black embossed hide, it's 1.0mm thick. It's nice and supple but not as smooth as the genuine article and less smooth than the sample above it feels like a better leather with a nice backing (whereas the one above feels cheap), the trouble is the grain is fairly large and doesn't look right. I find it odd that a 1mm thicker piece would be more flexible than a thinner 0.5mm piece? Anyway given what I've shown does anyone have any idea where I could locate some leather like the leather on the collar of the jacket? ideally I imagine 0.8mm would be the correct thickness. Can anyone identify a name or what animal it came from on the collar? I think it may be full grain? Would help me loads when searching. I know it's so difficult to locate the right leather from a photo, I've tried several suppliers in the UK with not much luck so far!

Ok thanks for the help will try and find this.

Thanks Hellfire nice to have a helping hand, I seem to be doing ok with just denatured alcohol may add some white vinegar into the mix apparently this gets it to Fiebings contents. This how it seems to be coming out so far. I seem to just be stripping the darker top coat, however as one can see the leather is still very shiny. This got me thinking is there anyway to iron out the scratches on the front toes of the boots while at the same time removing the shine from the boots? I was thinking perhaps some sanding but as I don't know anything about this would prefer to hear it from someone who knows. The leather is very hard and almost plastic like it must be said.

Thanks Hellfire. So after dyeing I'd just apply the beeswax? Will this stop any of the dye running off however? Or would it be better to apply a matte top coat and then try wax? I also saw a post about using denatured alcohol instead of Fiebings deglazer? I have a lot of denatured alcohol lying about, is it safe to use denatured alcohol instead on soft leathers as well as boots?

Hi hellfire, Beeswax is what is used on waxed boots. Doesn't really help me, is the top coat the same after dyeing as if I'd be doing a matt finish or is there a special top coat for waxed leather?

This maybe posted up in the wrong section, could an admin move it to the leatherwork conversation, maybe better over there?

I've got these Loake boots that although comfortable always had a horrible shiny lacquer finish which is why I never resoled them and relegated them to gardening duties. They are the hardest leather I've ever come across almost like plastic (but definitely leather) and unlike other boots scratch terribly as shown on the photos below. They are perfect project material and I'd like to experiment with them. So first I wanted to get rid of the lacquer using acetone, or preferrably white spirit or isopropyl alcohol which I have plenty of. Then Fiebings deglazer then dyeing with a dark brown Fiebings. Before I go on question is this, my preference would be to have a wax finished boot rather than a shiny leather finish (I've attached photos of an example), so is there any way to achieve said finish and if so what topcoat would I be putting on? I originally intended to put a matt finish on the boot. Any pointers would be appreciated. This is the finish I'd like to achieve a waxy finish.