Haroldson

Thanks, that sounds ideal.

Got a couple of questions if anyone has time. When I look online at Springfield or at my bathroom copy of the Tandy catalog I don't see the weight of belt strips listed. Anyone know what weight they are? I would like to make a couple of stitched and lined leather belts, am I better off cutting my own from two different weights? Does anyone know of a source for high quality garrison belt buckles? I'd like to find solid brass if possible.

Thank you for the answers. Sounds like the Bissonette style would suit me best, I find that I want to work on things like leather or small wood projects from various directions to get the best angle or to work with the grain.

There seem to be an array of edge rounding tools. I am interested in making holsters, belts and items of similar thickness, could someone suggest something from among the various styles and sizes please? I am leaning to one of the push/pull tools that seems to be constructed by making a hole in the head of the tool. Are these as sharp as the V shaped push tools? Brand preference? Thanks

Thanks for the tips, I will have to try a larger quilting store, I was idling around while my wife shopped when I found the 12 in square cutting board that I bought. I didn't see any rulers other than the clear plastic triangles. Gee, I wonder if she would like to go hunting quilt stores this weekend.

http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html http://lynnmcmasters.com/ They may have what you want. Looks like the hat is an exagerated version of the arched brim Elizibethan hat with a flatter, wider brim. Did they really wear those? Seems pretty extreme for such frugal plain people.

I was looking for a long ruler with some kind or ridge in the center for long cuts, I think I would like something that the knife isn't likely to skip over or cut through. Had one finger stitched up years ago after shaking hands with a robot, don't care to repeat the experience. Can't believe the cost of a good cutting board, I got a 12x12 for twenty bucks, but the table top size ones were crazy expensive.

Thanks, good to hear they work. I had some scraps left over from cutting out my first holster shaped object, I think they will get made into a blade cover.

Don't often buy something on impulse but I stopped at Harbor Freight to pick up a Jacobs 1/2" drill chuck today and while walking around I saw a utility knife with an angled blade for just a few dollars so I bought it for the leatherworking tool box. Turns out it is a carpet knife that uses rectangular blades with two edges. Looks like 4 edges when all is said and done. Top and bottom edges, two ends. Has anyone tried something like this for leather work?

Making progress. Added the leather pads to the stitching pony and glued up my first holster, a sort of bikini pancake. only threw away five paper patterns before I made up my mind. Got it glued up and sanded the edges. I see I need to get a chuck for the radial arm saw, the stub shaft opposite the blade would make a good place for a sanding drum. I ordered my edge bevel tool, finish and some beeswax from Springfield, then i can bevel, groove and stitch it up. My wife is talking workbench. In the house, which is a big commitment of space. So much to learn. Back to work in the morning, that will slow things down. Probably a good thing, I've spent a lot of money this week, need to slow down and assimilate what I have learned.

Actually that makes sense. Nice looking 1911 also, I see we have similar tastes in grips. I have Colt Double Diamonds on my SA Champion.

I am amazed at how much stretch there must be in leather. I watched a video where the maker added a reinforcement to the holster that wrapped from back to front and did the glue and sewing while it was flat, I would have expected a lot more problems with stretching the outside or compressing the inside layers. It's a lot to get my head around. My assumption was that you would form the holster, then cut and apply the reinforcing band. It gives me hope that I will be able to do the kind of lined holsters I want to make without a lot of puckering and wrinkling on the inside layer. Only thing I can figure is that the glue must make it almost like a laminate and that the leather stretches and compresses internally more than I ever thought it could. In case you are wondering, yes I have been told I over analyze things. To me that is half the fun and wonder of learning a new skill.

Thanks, I found the Springrield website and will check them out. I know I need more stuff, I realized I have no knife for skiving for example. My $9.00 stitching pony came out ok, I need to refine it, I made this one too blocky and since it has wood screws up near the mouth I can't bevel it off as much as I would like. Live and learn. Tomorrow I will glue on the leather pads and add the hardware. I also learned that cheap Chinese woodscrews and oak do not mix, even pre drilling with a drill countersink didn't keep them from twisting off. I plan to start with a rough out pocket holster, just to learn to cut, sew and mould then move up to a pancake of some kind. After that I may try a stitched belt or something. I've watched the Adams Leatherworks videos a couple of times and learned a lot. Thanks for the reply, hope you have a great Thanksgiving.

Just got back from the Tandy store in Fairfield Oh with some leather, the basic tools and Strohlman's book on stiching. I want to make semi modern holsters for my 1911 and my Glock mini gun, at least to start with, I hope to expand to other things later for friends and family. Are there any books that detail modern holsters as opposed to western style holsters? I always admired Milt Spark's holsters like the 1AT etc. Are there books that detail how to deal with metal linings, tension screws, and general patterns? I've googled but all I find are holsters for sale and instructions on how to do cowboy rigs or pancake holsters. I suppose I could do trial and error but if someone sells a book it sure would save a lot of leather. Reading the Strohlman book on stiching has really opened my eyes to how much I have to learn, I'd rather not do it at the rate of $5 per square foot. Thanks