stomper4x4

rd I would consider using a wax based finish. First off, after dye, buff really well once it's fully dry, using canvas or cotton. Keep at it until no more color comes off. Then use a resist, and do your antique. Let all that dry real well and buff again. Lastly go for a wax based finish, such as Obernauffs or Sno Seal or aussie wax. I have pretty good luck with that. My stuff is outdoor gear and it seems to work well. ATB

Boy you might have a challenge on your hands. Maybe start here, I've used it as a reference a few times. http://1940sleather.blogspot.com/ Good luck!

I think you're on to something there!

I do a light coat of neatsfoot oil and let that soak in good. I figure the oil inside the fibers probably helps some. Then if I want really good waterproofing I use Sno-Seal. Nothing is 100% with leather, and you don't really want it to be. Leather has to breathe. With the Sno Seal (I think someone mentioned this above) it helps to use a hair dryer to melt that stuff and let it soak into the leather. Other beeswax preparations work well too.

Ahh now that's a thought! I do bags sometimes and I think this look is so much nicer than having the attachment "flaps" splayed outward, at least for some designs. I'll have to give this a try.

Yeah I'd like better photos too. I've seen these kinds of small exterior pockets many times but I can't find interior pictures. I emailed one guy who did one like this and he said he couldn't explain it over email.... And I've seen many styles, but it's getting that stitching on the inside, on that small of a pocket, that baffles me. I'm hoping someone here has done this before :D I think it's likely a soft oil tanned, so turning it inside out would work most likely. But do you see what I mean? There is the main bag, then those small exterior pockets attached to that, and the seam for those pockets appear to be on the inside. And to saddle stitch that, for instance, you'd have to get your hand down on there which I can't imagine that being easy at all.

Hi gang, I can't wrap my head around this. So this shoulder bag has these small pouches sewn on the outside of it. What I don't understand is how they were stitched on. How does one get their hand inside, let alone a needle and be able to see what you're doing? Basically one side of the stitching, when attaching the side pieces of each pouch, is inside the pouch. It seems a near impossible task to get a hand in there and do a proper stitch all by feel. Any ideas??

Excellent thanks guys. Hopefully I can come back and 5th the Aussie conditioner I appreciate the input!

Hi gang, I'm going to restore this holster for someone. It needs some stitching repair, a new snap, and things like that which are pretty easy. However they requested that I try and remove the scuff marks as much as possible and I wondered if anyone has any tricks or tips on doing that. I THINK this holster is veg tan because the edges are burnished, but I'm not 100% sure on that. It seems to have some wax finish on it, I'm not sure about stripping the wax, redying, or whatever might work. Also I think it would be nice to somehow keep that old patina that it has. Anyway, any thoughts? Thanks!

Do tell!

Wow you guys are a wealth of knowledge! I appreciate all the insights. I'll keep up the search. Thanks guys!

Hey gang, Has anyone seen this stamp before and know where I can find one? I want!

I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. However the term "goods" doesn't exude excusivity. Rather it sounds like something on the corner store. As Joe points out, flipping an item over and seeing just "Magpie" alone lends an air of a bit of mystery and exclusivity. I would be tempted to not use the word "goods" at least. Best of luck!

I've run across my version of "Kydex rivet man" at a festival and on forums recently. But I have to say that it's nice to get complements on how nice my work is, even if fewer people open their wallets then and there at the show. I am not going to try and compete on price with anyone because that's a losing game, as you point out. I know my work falls between the well known, best of the best makers and the skilled novice and I charge accordingly. But I do 2nd guess myself. I think it'll work itself out more as I settle into my niche more and find the places to focus my marketing, where the right customer who appreciates fine, hand made work has the cash to afford it. On the forum, there was a guy selling belt pouches for $20 and free shipping, hand made by him here in the states. the work as not bad, but not top notch by any means. Once he pays the shipping and materials alone, he's not making much for his time. But I suspect that some of these folks are hobbiests, doing this on their off time so they skirt around paying uncle sam his share, nor has other usual business expenses to worry about. There is no way I'll go though running a business and all and only pay myself minimum wage

Thanks for the thorough answer Dwight! I'm always concerned about pricing too high, and one of the biggest objections I get it pricing. Some of that, I think, is battling the walmart mindset. Others may be settling into a niche where people appreciate and are willing to pay for good handwork by a craftsman. But then I see a lot of people pricing at, what to me, is obviously too low. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts. It's helpful as I continue to learn. Mike

Dwight, I'm curious as to how you factor in labor, or if that cost varies for you at all with your formula. Let me give an example. You do holsters so lets make two hosters for a 1911. Both will use the same stitching, parts, and quantity of veg tan. Both wet formed. However one is plain, just dyed and finished. The other has intricate tooliing, adding hours to the production time. Unless I missed something your formula would have the same cost for each. Then what about taxes on your business and other such expenses like electric and health insurance? I'm not saying you're wrong, rather I'm still figuring this stuff out and don't want to miss anything. Thanks!

Awesome thanks guys! So business as usual, I appreciate the answers as always!

Hey gang, So for the most part I use veggie tan for my projects. For marking stitching holes I use a groover to mark my line, then a stitching wheel to space where my holes will go, then an awl to punch the holes. However I am wanting to tackle some new kinds of projects and I'm kind of stuck. I want to make some belt pouches and bags for woodsman use, and I'm planning to use oil tanned or buffalo, or something similar along these lines http://www.waterhouseleather.com/full_grain_oiltan.htm What I plan to do is to make the bag panels, stitch everything together inside out, then turn the back rightside out so the stitching is on the inside, does that make sense? What I want to know is what is the best way for marking my line, and my holes, for sewing this kind of pretreated leather? I can't see a groover being the best option, and marks from a stitching wheel probably won't show up well like it does on dampened veg tan. Any thoughts? Thanks!!

I have good results using one of these. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/mallets-handtools/8121-00.aspx

Wow that sheath is unique! I like the rustic, wilderness look. What materials is all in there?

Thanks for the feedback! I do appreciate it. Nope nothing is from a kit, all original, from scratch.

Great looking holsters! I bet business is booming, the local gun shops can't keep anything on the shelves. Not sure how much moving will help. I suspect once this snowball gets rolling, there won't be much stopping it.

Looking good! Looks like a nice 1911 too I really like the way the belt loops are set up. Seems like it would really keep the holster stable and not rock back and forth much. Probably has a nice draw on it too. I'm at the learning stages also, but one final finish thing I do think works well is Sno-seal. It's a product made for weatherproofing leather boots and such I believe. But for outdoors leather goods, knife sheaths, etc, it makes for a nice. shiny, water proof finish. I heat my final product with a hair dryer, rub on some sno-seal, then heat it again to it penetrates the leather nicely. A final buffing is all that is needed. Take a look at my Scandinavian knife thread I posted yesterday in this same forum section, that sheath is finished with sno-seal.

Hi Gang, Here is a knife and sheath I made. The blade was hand forged in Sweden using famous Swedish steel. I made the handle with reindeer antler, curly maple and leather spacers. The sheath is 4 oz veggie tanned, wet formed in Scandinavian style. I used a med brown antique die, and the darker part is regular med brown die. It has a wax finish to protect it in the outdoors. The belt look has a button for easy on/off. What do you think?

More good ideas. I'll have to just try some out and see what works best. Thanks guys I do appreciate it!