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ShawnM76

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Posts posted by ShawnM76

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I have just gone through the same process and following a little research discovered this site http://www.chuckbaum...ush-reviews.htm, where a Chuck Bauman gives his opinion on a few specific makes/models of airbrush. I have followed his advice and ordered one and am awaiting delivery.

    I bought the complete kit from Eastwood Co......compressor and all..........works great and not a problem with it........and I bought it 2 years ago but just now playing with it

    Thanks fellas, I'll definitely checkout that link, look into those models and compare them to some other ones I'm looking at.

    If you type in something like "what airbrush" in the search, there's lots of stuff available. Here's a sampling.

    http://leatherworker...+what +airbrush

    http://leatherworker...+what +airbrush

    To sum it up. Get a Paashce VL and a standard compressor then get to work practicing. I recommend the Harbor Freight models a lot, but they are a cheap alternative - low cost with some occasional problems. If that's all you can afford, make sure you get the deluxe model that's dual action. But, the Paasche sprays better and has parts more readily available at most art stores, including Tandy. I'm pretty sure that first link has a complete list for a setup.

    Thanks Cyberthrasher. I'll definitely check that one out as well. I try to use the search engine on the site as often as possible, and I this time as well, but nothing outstanding really came up. It could have been the choice of words I used. I try to always make sure to start there before starting new threads for sure.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hey folks, I was considering investing in an airbrush to help with finishing projects and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what models might work well for the kind of work we do? I know zero about airbrushes, so I'm not even sure of what to look for in one? I thought maybe being that it will be used for the work we do that maybe there is something different that I should consider in buying one? I would definitely like something that will be easy to use, reliable, and affordable.

    If any of you have some suggestions I would love to hear from you. Thanks in advance!

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Acetone (fingernail polish remover) will dissolve many finishes. Fiebing's dye thinner removes some. Deglazer also. Toluene (contact cement thinner) is another. Look at what is recommended for thinners and try that one first. They may remove some of the dye as well. They will dry out the leather so it needs to be conditioned again.

    Most water-based dyes are very sensitive to being dissolved by the stronger chemical thinners used in non-water based finishes. Even alcohol dyes can be lifted too, but not quite as easily. Hence the instructions to always buff the dye off the surface before putting anything on top of it.

    Your dye started out in a dissolved form when you used it. Any solvent stronger than water is likely to lift it. Of course water can lift water based dyes too.

    Tom

    Wow Tom, this definitely gives me some hope. Thank you so much for posting this for me. I'm going to give some of these a try for sure. I don't mind if it takes off some off the dye, and that I have to recondition the leather and restain it. I'd much rather do that then to have to do the whole project all over again.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I've also been having the same problem and started a thread on this yesterday here; http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48005

    I'm having the same issue with the super sheen, and finding it's really pulling up a lot of the colour and just spreading it around making my project really streaky and muddy. Since I don't have an airbrush I'm going to try the Preval Power Unit sprayer from Tandy's to apply the finish on my existing project until I get some Sheridan RTC that I can try. Good Luck!

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Yeah, I'm sitting here trying to figure out why the original poster's experience happened and I only have one idea. OP, how heavy was the coat of supershene you applied? I've actually done what you have, used the tandy gel as an all-over color with no resist and when I've done it, it came out very even. I'm wondering if you really used a lot of the supershene in one coat, that might explain what happened on your project, both the streaking and the milky bits. I'm just guessing though. You might try using a very light initial coat of finish, let it dry, then come back with a second coat.

    Ya, the super sheen was definitely lifting a ton of colour and smearing it around like crazy. I probably am using too much of it. I've never been shown how to use it, and I thought more super sheen = better results. I've been using a sponge that had been soaked with it. I didn't realize that you had to use so little. I did try using a smaller amount with the sponge last night and found I was getting the same results. I'm definitely going to order some RTC and some Feibings products. Also going to make a trip to the Tandy's class this Saturday to have someone properly show me what to do.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Dwight and Cyberthrasher, those are some great tips. I'm definitely not offended by the comments of cheap leather. I'm buying what I think is good leather, but since I'm new to this I don't always seem to know what to look for. The leather I get at Tandy's always seems to be very dry, no matter what grade of leather I get. I'll definitely give the Fiebings products a try for sure. I definitely think the super sheen is reactivating the gel, and I don't know why. I'm definitely not going to be using it for any future products.

    In regards to all the leather, all of it was cut by myself from veg tan hides I got at Tandy's, with the exception of maybe the belt, which I can't remember if it was one I cut myself or one of the pre-cut ones I got from Tandy's.

    As far as the cracking goes, I always wet and shape the leather a bit first where I know it will bend. In this case because it was a sling, it's to be made adjustable with a bend going in it wherever the user wants to adjust it. I think maybe you are right in saying that I put too much finish (supersheen) on it. I do remember putting a fair amount on as I thought that was a good idea to give it more protection, but I guess I was wrong. oops.

    Thanks again fellas for your tips and comments. Much appreciated.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Hey there folks, I'm having some finishing problems with my leather and could use some tips/advice.

    I've attached some photos to go along with the descriptions of some of the issues I am having. Hopefully it helps.

    The first three photos are in regards to my first question. It's actually more of an issue, and that is after using the tandy antique gel I let my project dry for 24 hours, and then I apply super sheen to the project. Once I start applying the super sheen the antique starts to lift and the two mix together resulting in a lot of streaking and a milky color, and then it proceeds to dry milky and streaky. Can you please tell me why this is doing this and what I might be doing wrong? I've spent a lot of time these last few weeks destroying projects I have spent countless hours on. As well, is there any way to fix this after it has happened?

    My next question is regarding the following two pictures of a belt that I had made a few weeks ago, and that I have been wearing ever since. It's only been a few weeks and the belt is already showing signs of wear. I have store bought leather belts that I have worn for a year straight and not had this kind of wear. Why would it be wearing so prematurely? Does it have something to do with the finishing? Is there anything I can do to ensure this doesn't happen again with future projects? I have friends that want leather belts who specifically said they wanted a quality leather belt that would not do this. I want to ensure I can provide them with that.

    My next question is in regards to the following picture (the one with all the milky colored markings on it) again, this just happened suddenly, and I don't know why? Is there a reason these milky markings would have developed?

    And lastly, the last photo of the strap with a crack in it. How can I prevent this from happening in the future when a project has to be bent? This is actually a rifle sling and in order to adjust it, it is going to have to be bent anytime there are adjustments to be made. Again, I would definitely like for this not to be happening with future projects.

    Just so you have an idea, this is how I've been finishing my leather;

    - allow leather to dry completely

    - stain leather and allow to dry 24 hours then buff

    - apply gum trag on flesh side using finger to rub into leather

    - apply a coat of super sheen twice, then buff again

    - burnish edges

    - apply edge coat

    Not sure if this is fully the appropriate way or not. I have found that even with the use of the internet and books that I have I cant seem to find the exact right information that I need. A lot of reference I have found shows you quickly what to do, but I think there are a lot of steps being left out.

    Thanks for hearing me out, I hope you have time to answer these questions for me. post-40503-0-29676400-1368479873_thumb.j

    post-40503-0-07864600-1368479883_thumb.j

    post-40503-0-37400200-1368479891_thumb.j

    post-40503-0-53515100-1368479912_thumb.j

    post-40503-0-03146300-1368479925_thumb.j

    post-40503-0-78338400-1368479939_thumb.j

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hello ShawnM76! Greetings from another Canadian (New Brunswick). It's nice to meet you, and nice to see fellow canucks on the forum!

    Thank you and thanks for having me! Super stoked to be here and learn.

    Hello from Calgary, and welcome.

    Tom

    Hello Northmount! Glad to see there are plenty of canucks on here!

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Also Canadian. :) I'm from Manitoba though.

    What kind of stuff have you made/are you planning to make?

    Hello fellow Destrier!

    So far I started with a ton of key fobs, then graduated to belts, then I did a wallet and a rifle sling. All of which I was really proud of. I'm currently working on another belt which is all hand carved, and two custom long biker wallets. I'm super happy with all my current projects and cant wait to see them done.

    My next project is going to be a 3 ring photo album/portfolio (I'm a tattoo artist and I want this for displaying photos of my work. I'm going to have to wing this one as well, as I have found no resources at all to assist me in it's design. Should be tons of fun though!

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I buy a regular 3 ring binder and take the covers off. I drill out the rivets holding the clip on. I use the cover stiffeners for a pattern and groove the cover piece for the folds. I line all of them and basically sandwich the stiffeners and edge sew. I reattach the clip with Chicago screws or post back conchos that go all the through.

    Thanks for this Bruce! I had an idea in my head that this was maybe how they were made. I really am excited to make these for a few friends. I appreciate you sharing your tips with me! I'll be sure to post some pics when I am done!

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Shawn!

    I'm Canadian as well, born in Ontario but living in Quebec with my husband. Feel free to ask me questions about suppliers and selling online from Canada. I've been at this about 1.5 years and really love the craft! We Canadians have a challenge in that it's harder to get some of the higher quality tools and supplies, because shipping from the USA can get stupid expensive, especially when you factor in the duty fees. Sometimes it's worth it, other times, not so much.

    I too will look up the Tundra guild, although it's a little too far for me to participate in person.

    Looking forward to hearing more from you!

    Thanks Lightingale! Yes, definitely shipping from the USA has been challenging to say the least. I've been trying to get everything I can from Canada, but some of the seriously good tools are from the states.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome, ShawnM76!

    I'm from Simcoe, just down the road from you and new to this amazing craft as well! The guys at Tundra are awesome and are happy to share their amazing skills and knowledge with you. it would be very worthwhile to check out the CSCL as well.

    Bob

    Thanks Bob! I was actually born in Simcoe! I lived there til I was about 12. I'm very interested in meeting other leather craft people and I think the CSCL would be a great place to do so. Too bad I just missed the annual meeting. I'm looking for ward to meeting the people at Tundra, and gaining some skills from their knowledge. I already attend the free classes at Tandys almost every Saturday, but I'm very hungry for knowledge right now, and I'm finding that Saturday mornings just aren't enough for me.

    Thanks for the kind words, Bob! We definitely try to help out and offer advice where we can. Hope to see you in the shop Shawn! Definitely mention that you've been chatting with us on Leatherworker.net. Have a great day!

    I'm sure we will be seeing each other real soon for sure!

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Tundra Leather definitely has all of the information and supplies you need. They're located in downtown Hamilton and will have the knowledge and skills to work you through any project!

    313 King Street East, Hamilton, ON L8N 1C1

    (if you're putting it into your GPS, make sure you put in the postal code, or it'll take you to Stoney Creek)

    Best of luck!

    CSCL

    Perfect, I'm definitely going to check them out for sure.

    Thanks again!

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Shawn!

    Leatherworker.net has some amazing work and some amazing ideas. It will definitely spark your interest and keep you going. Also check out The Canadian Society for Creative Leathercraft. We've got three Ontario Guilds, and members at large across the country.

    Check out our updated webiste: www.canadianleathercraft.org

    Or find us on facebook: www.facebook.com/canadianleathercraft

    Let us know if we can be of any help!

    Also, there is a great store in Hamilton, Ontario, if you're ever in the area. It's called Tundra Leather, and they provide excellent advice to beginners all the way up to master leathercrafters. You can find them at www.tundraleather.ca, or www.facebook.com/tundraleather

    Best of luck with your leatherwork!

    Canadian Society for Creative Leathercraft (CSCL)

    Wow! Thanks for the links, I'm definitely going to check those all out, and I had no idea there was a leather store in Hamilton. I'm always making my way out to Mississauga to Tandy's, but I will be sure to check this other place out!

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