Knipper

Hey, likewise! Thanks for coming over to the booth and introducing yourself. I had a great time there. Terry

Thanks, Hunter. I'm glad you're enjoying the knife! Terry

Well, I'm home from the Wichita Falls "Boots and Saddles Roundup" show. The show was well attended and I got to meet a lot of nice people there, including some customers. I can now put faces with the names. The knives sold well and I even came home with a few orders. Some of my customers won awards there, namely Terry Henson, Clint Spurgeon, John Rule and Keith Seidel. Keith took best saddle in his division, best floral design and won best of show for his saddle. They announced that it was pretty rare to win all three! I did get the chance to look at their work and it was stunning. I'm still overwhelmed by what these craftsmen can do with leather. Heh, my leather cutting efforts is limited to making big scraps of leather into little ones as I test the edges of my blades... I also got to meet Eddie and Kathy Kimmel(who put the show together), for the first time and was made to feel right at home. I'll definitely be back next year. All in all, I couldn't ask for more from a show! Terry Knipschield

I'm going to try the Wichita Falls TX show this next weekend. Hope to get my work displayed to the Texas/Oklahoma leather workers. I don't even want to guess how many hours these took, but hopefully some will find a good home. If you plan to attend the show, stop by and say hello. Knipper

I can see where a set of symmetric punches would be useful, if you wanted to do an alternating solid/cut-out pattern, much like stamping the leather. I guess I was looking more for those situations where say, a floral pattern is carved into the leather and then, some of the leather surrounding those patterns is cut out. They would most likely be odd shaped pieces...mostly curved. If most crafters are getting by with scalpels and X-acto knives, then perhaps specialized cutting tools would not get much attention due to the extra cost etc. I was thinking of some chisels (picture a round punch, cut in half and thinned to a fine cutting edge) where you could press straight down and get a clean cut, along with some thin pointed blades (45 degree angle in profile or less) that could handle longer curved cuts with precision. I may make something up just for fun to see how they would work. Of course, I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to leather working, but I know how to make things that cut! Knipper

This is not so much of a "How do I do that?" as a "How do YOU do that" question. I'm interested in learning about any edged tools used to cut leather. Some of the filigree work I've seen posted here is just fantastic. I'm curious about the knives or blades people are using to cut these intricate patterns out from a carved leather piece. For example, I've seen where material is removed from around petals on carved flowers or vines. I'd like to know what blade shapes and sizes are most useful, if possible. No doubt X-acto knives come into play, but maybe there is more to it than meets the eye. Any input would be appreciated. Also, if I could get an idea about the weight of the leather used, that would be useful too. Thanks Knipper

For the green compounds, try Knife and Gun finishing supplies,www.knifeandgun.com, and ask for their 'premium green bar'. It tends to rub into leather a little easier. I also have very good luck with a green compound from R.W.Wilson, www.rwwilsonknives.com. Call and ask him for the green compound in the cardboard tube. Both of these vendors have additional compounds in various grits available. Knipper

Natalie, Yes, some of the compounds are very dry. Frequently, some kind of wax is used to bind the grit together. If you run into a very dry bar, it will still work on a buffing wheel, but for a leather strop, you might have to rub some mineral oil (neatsfoot oil might work too) into the leather before you try to rub in compound. I wouldn't use cardboard as the base for your strop. I would think a swivel knife blade would require a firmer surface like the cardboard backing to a note pad...maybe you weren't referring to corrugated. The oil breaks down the wax and makes it easier to spread. Also, some leathers take the compound better than others. I've run into some that just won't hold compound as the grain is too tight. For that leather, you can take some 150-220 grit sandpaper to the grain side and rough it up a bit first...the oil does help, though. In my opinion, horse hide makes for the best strop (Barbers used that for their straight razors for a couple hundred years). Just keep putting some oil on as you rub the compound in. Eventually, you'll have a thin layer of it on the leather and you'll be good to go. If the compound starts flaking off, add a bit more oil and rub. In general, you'll have better results with the green as opposed to the white, but even white is better than "jeweler's rouge". For head knives, I like thicker leather, with some give to it. That helps conform to the convex shape of the edge. For other types of blades, such as bevel knives, skivers and swivel knife blades, a firmer surface might be best(thin 4-5 oz leather glued to a board). Knipper

Yes! The colors of buffing compound are all over the spectrum. You mentioned yellow. Sometimes you have to take the risk and try something. Most places that sell compounds, for knife making or for woodcarver's use, are pretty good about describing what the compound will do, and how aggressive the grit is. That's a GOOD thing.

I suspect what I'm about to suggest might seem like heresy to some, but I hope you'll take it in the spirit in which its intended...to help improve the edges on your steel cutting tools. Somewhere along the line, the term "jeweler's rouge" came to be an almost generic term for all buffing compounds. But, in this case, the term can be taken literally. Jeweler's rouge is a compound intended to polish jewelry (gold and silver). It also does a good job of polishing brass, nickel silver and copper. What all these metals have in common is they are relatively soft. Jeweler's rouge (rouge is the French word for red...) is ideal for soft metals because when you polish someone's gold ring, you want to keep the gold on the ring, not buff it away. Hence, the abrasive qualities of red Jeweler's rouge is very, very slight; just enough to polish, but not enough to wear away. Tripoli, a brown compound, is another type intended to polish soft metals, but slightly more aggressive than jeweler's rouge. When it comes to steel, however, something more aggressive is needed to help maintain your cutting edge. Buffing compounds intended for steel not only polish, but actually 'cut' the steel like a very fine hone. There is a general color code to these compounds, but within each class or color, grits do vary, depending on the manufacturer. Another issue is, anyone can contact a manufacturer and have a run of a particular grit made in any color they want to specify (One of my suppliers has bars of compound made that I like very much for my knives, and he had them color it light blue!). The grit doesn't determine the color of the bar and vice versa! But, for the most part, compounds for steel come in black, gray, white and green. All have 'cut and color' properties. That means the compound 'cuts' the steel and polishes it (what they refer to as color). Black is usually the most aggressive, then the gray's, greens and whites. You can charge your buffing wheel with them or rub them on a leather strop. I've found that for me, the best all around compounds are the green chrome type. They have enough abrasive qualities to 'cut' the steel and leave a nice polished surface. This is what would be used to maintain a sharp edge. For more drastic action, use the gray's. Black or 'emery' compound is too aggressive to use on a regular basis, but is great if your blade is rusted or stained. It takes that off quickly, but the edge should be treated with a gray or green afterwards. The problem with using jeweler's rouge is that though it might shine the steel, its not really removing metal at the edge like you want it too. In fact, it might actually dull the blade. Here's why: After an initial buff or strop, the edge is tested. Sharp?, no...better press harder. Still not sharp? Hmmm...better increase the angle. At the end of the session, the edge is now shiny as can be...and rounded off! Had a green compound been used, light pressure at a slight angle would have given the user a scary sharp edge (assuming it was honed well to begin with of course). I have read several books written by Stohlman, which recommend stropping with 'jeweler's rouge', and this perhaps has influenced people to use it. It could have been an error or intentional. But I strongly recommend you give the green or other compounds a try. They are intended for steel and may give you more of what you're trying to achieve in your edged tools. Knipper

I really like the job you did on that tool rack!! Convenient, keeps all the tools at hand and keeps them safe. Now if I can train myself to put my tools BACK in the rack, I'll be a happy camper! Knipper

Hi Joel.. The "intro" pages of fixed and folder type knives are intended to just show the type of work I do and picture some of my favorite models. Prices are listed consistently with the "Available For Purchase" section of the Gallery. Older work is listed in the "Previous Work" section, and yes, some do not list prices. That's because my materials are going up in price every year and prices are soon outdated. But I will quote a firm price once the customer tells me what they want. In general, Fixed blades with Micarta handles will run $225 to $350 unless some exotic material is requested. Folders start at $375 and again, will increase with the size of the knife, or model, and materials requested. I always like to talk with a customer anyway...to get to know each other and set up a good dialogue either on the phone or by email, so I encourage inquiries. It's more personal that way with a truly 'custom' knife as opposed to just listing a model and price and shipping it out. Many times the customer wants some sort of variation on what I've made previously and I've found talking with the customer is the best way to handle it. Now that the format is up and working, I plan to do some more editing on descriptions for the previous work section, and if I can commit to a price, I'll put that in there too, or at least a price range. Terry

Yeah, I think there will always be issues with older browser versions. Some do not support some of the newer features one can do on a web page now. If I made the website so simple that even the oldest browser could view it, I wouldn't be able to do some of the things my son has engineered into the site, so I guess I just have to pick what works for most and be content with it. One thing that might help is to clear your browser's cache...somehow that makes some features work better if the version is not too old... Terry I suppose one could also download the FireFox browser and use that. It's free and I know the website works well with it. Terry

Thank you! That was a good catch. I'll get a revision going (all the head knives are 1/16" thick, by the way...) Terry

Heh...I usually ask permission from the site before I post a link, but you're right.. I don't think Leatherworker.net will mind. I'll work on that. I have some more links to post anyway. Terry

What Browser are you using? I've tried this on Firefox, Chrome and Explorer (current versions) and everything appears to be there. I've learned that sometimes you have to clear your browser's cache to get certain features to work. Thanks Terry

The price is listed after the name of the model in each description... Thanks

I wasn't sure where to post this, but the leather tools sub-forum seemed the way to go. My son (who is a great photographer and graphic artist among many other things..) just finished updating my website. It now contains a page devoted to the knives I make for leather workers. I'd appreciate a visit and an opinion if you have the time to look! Just go to www.knipknives.com and then click on the "leather knives" button at the top of the page. Thanks for looking... Knipper (Terry Knipschield)

Well, I have an answer for you on the Tandy/Stohlmann damascus knife steel. Tandy recently put these on sale for half price and listed the steel used: SUS410. This is a variation of 410 stainless steel and according to what I found for the chemistry of the steel, it contains .08 to .15 % carbon. That ain't much, when you want steel to have around a full 1% !! I don't know what other steel they're using to get the damascus effect, but none is listed. Could be the blade is just etched to get a damascus 'looking' steel, and it might be all SUS 410. The applications listed nuts, bolts, tubing, lining etc, but nowhere did it recommend this grade for cutlery. Heat treating this steel will only get you marginal hardness, and it certainly won't hold up for edge retention. This is what I was talking about folks...someone will buy this, find out it won't hold an edge and then swear off ALL stainless. Too bad, really. So, do some research before you buy. Shoot for 1% carbon whichever type you use and you won't have a paperweight that looks like a knife, (provided there is good heat treatment...). Terry

Well, if they didn't want us to bomb their factory, they shouldn't have tried to take over the world...! Heh, only mention that as it sounded like they were a little short in their response to you. During the war years, I very much doubt that even the Henckel factory was allowed to make their normal fare. They were probably forced to convert output to further the war effort. I can't see that a head knife attached to the end of a rifle is a good substitute for a bayonet. Terry I once saw one of their roundknifes in a military museum collection of saddlers tools, sent an Email to the factory, asking if they still had roundknives for sale. They responded: NO, we don´t make them anymore since 1944, when the Americans bombed the factory. / Knut

WOW!!! A Henckel head knife! I didn't even know they made one. The logo is their early "Twin" logo. That baby is old. I shave with a Henckel straight razor (have for 44 years) and I own my Great Grandfather's Henckel razor, which is still in using condition and gives great shaves. Hang on to that knife, I suspect it is quite rare. It was probably made in the late 1800's in Solingen Germany. I know that Henckel has always produced superior cutlery, even their very old work. You've got good steel for sure in that knife... Terry Knipschield

I happened to think about what has been said about the edge angles on head knives for resharpening. Its important to remember that when you hone one side to a 15 degree angle and then turn it over and hone the other side to a 15 degree angle, you are getting a combined angle on the edge of 30 degrees. Many know this, I'm sure, but without bringing it up, some may think that setting your blade at 15 degrees for both sides will yield 15 degrees at the edge too. If you want an included angle of say 20 degrees, then you have to hone both sides at 10 degrees, measured from the edge to the back of the blade on each side, of course.... Also, assuming we are talking about a convex (Moran) edge here, I was thinking that it would really be hard to measure an actual angle on a tapered convex edge, as the rounded taper itself thwarts any effort to do so accurately...at least with my measuring devices. The main body of the blade and its taper towards the edge, gets to be a pretty small angle when you think about it. Assuming you start with a thickness of 1/16 inch, and then taper it toward the edge over a length of say, 2 1/2 to 3 inches, that initial taper (not the tapered, rounded angle of the actual edge...!) will probably be only 3 to 5 degrees...maybe even less. I think how its sharpened after that (from the edge back to 3/8" to 1/2" into the blade) is what will make the difference in how well a blade cuts. Just my opinion !

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Yep...didn't mention the "10" series of tool steel...1095, 1086, 1075. I wouldn't go lower than 1086 personally though. I like the additional hardness allowed by the extra carbon. You're right about the "Damascus" term, but its almost universally know by that now. I prefer the term "pattern welded" as well. Terry

Just a word of caution on the Damascus blade. Call them and ask what steel they are using!!!! If they don't know, I'd be hesitant to buy it. If they say its Damasteel (from Sweden) or some of the stainless damascus made by Mike Norris, Devin or Rob Thomas or Chad Nichols, then I'd be confident in getting one. Oh...ask them how hard it is ( what Rockwell (RC) hardness the blade is...) Again, if they don't know, be wary. It should be around RC 59-61. Otherwise, you may just be buying a pretty blade that won't work well as a tool. Just my two cents worth. (Would the pattern of the Damascus set up some additional friction or drag with the leather?...I don't know, but think about it) Terry Knipschield