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Posts posted by Sam Made
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Actually, the COBRA NP 4 is $1300.00 shipped. Steve
sold! I sent you an email. thanks!
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guys ive been shopping around for a skiving machine and need some help on which to choose. i was offered from a local store a new consew dcs-s3 for $1000 shipped, a new highlead bottom feed for $1200 shipped and was offered a used artisan np4 for $900 shipped and finally a cobra np4 about $1500 shipped by steve from leathermachineco.com. thanks in advance for the advice.
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Cool! My sis-in-law was just admiring a bag just like this.
Thanks Monica, a good friend inspired this bag after seeing something similar online and asked me to make one for her. Can't thank her enough because everyone loves the tote and wants one now.
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Well done Sam, looks very good.
I experienced the same thing with stitching going on forever, in a purse I made.
But I like your bag / tote, .looks nice.
thanks a lot guys. im starting to regret doing double stitched seams. might be time for a machine
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You probably need a triple feed walking foot machine, using system 135x16 or 135x17 needles and standard "type 111" presser feet that allow it to sew 3/8 inches of material. The maximum foot lift with the knee lever is usually about 1/2 inch, even though it can only sew 3/8. Most will top out at #138 bonded thread (22 pounds breaking strength), top and bottom, using a #23 needle.
You can find these (used) machines at upholstery and drapery shops or your local/nearby Craigslist. Most are sold for between $500 and $800, depending on how worn out they are. You may even find an old Singer 111w155 that still works, for about $400.
You will not get a new one for anywhere near $500. A new Chandler 406RB sells for about $1000. A Consew 206RB is around $1250 and a Juki DNU-1541 will set you back about $1600.
Thanks! This whole time i was waiting for your reply because i know you would offer some direction. I did a quick search and i couldnt find anyone selling the singer 111w155 so ill try to look for the other machines you listed used. are there any other machines that comes to mind? I really don't mind older/ vintage.
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thanks for all the replies, looks like i wont be getting either of those machines. I guess the question is what is the least expensive machine one can get to do that type of job.
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They are both great machines BUT NOT FOR LEATHER don't mess up these great machines.
thanks for the response. would you recommend them for 18oz canvas or waxed canvas?
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I'm shopping for a sewing machine on a budget (less than 500) and heard really good things on the internet about the singer 301 and 401a. I plan on making bags so I need something for lining fabric, cotton canvas, and 6-8oz leather. Do you guys think those two machines are capable of the job or is there some other machine I should consider? Thanks in advance. - Sam
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OH ! So it was already dyed when you purchased it.
Where did you purchase it from ? When something inspires me, I have to know all I can about it !!!
I've been working with leather for 40 years, & I can never learn enough. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
THANKS CRAFTSMAN! wow 40 years experience. Im speaking to a master craftsman. I'll shoot you a PM. I got it from a leather store in Manhattan.
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VERY NICE, Sam !!!
What type of leather did you use ??
Thanks guys, I used what seems to be 2-3 oz chrome tanned cowhide. "Burnishes" pretty well
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I use Edge-Coat after all my burnishing is done and everything is dry and set. After that dries, I buff it smooth with a soft rag and apply 2 or 3 very thin coats of 50/50 Resolene, letting them dry between coats.
To my knowledge, I haven't had any cracking.
Thinking back, I did use Saddle-Lac as a top coat at one time and found that some of the softening products I used on the flesh side made it flake off in chunks if I didn't spray it on at the right time in my sequence - ie: before any oils or softening crèmes to the flesh side
thanks! i tried the resolene and it gave it a nice sheen. defintely have to let it dry before applying each coat or the previous coat will clump up into little bits. (thats what happened when i got impatient.
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Not to be a SA or anything, but considering the Bob Parks method DOES produce great results, why change it?
I've never used Clear-Lac for edges, but considering it's a pretty hard substance, I'd kind of expect this. If you apply it to a flat, thick surface, like a holster, belt, etc, flexing is spread across the entire width. Here, you are laying down a very, very thin width and flexing it or rubbing it. I can't see it not cracking.
I changed it because i didn't find a difference in result when i used paraffin wax to polish before applying clear-lac. I see that your specialties are belts and dog collars. what products do you use for your edges? Thanks -Sam
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Ive been using Bob Parks method to finish the edges of my wallets for some time now because the result is simply unmatched by anything else. The only difference is I skip the paraffin wax part and just sand in-between coats of clear-lac. The edges come out smooth and polished but that only lasts about a week of normal wear. After a week or so the clear-lac begins to crack and separate itself from the leather ruining my edges. Does anyone else have this issue with clear lac or am I doing something wrong?
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springfield has some imported 2-3oz veg tan you can get by the square foot. ive never tooled with them but they accept dye pretty well.
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nevermind. I did a little searching and found a thread on it. Heres the thread incase anyone wanders in here looking for an answer. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31788
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Looks like piping material to me...
thanks for the quick reply. it doesnt seem like piping...its more like some rubbery paint. ive seen something similar on coach cardholders.
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i believe theyre using a fabric liner to divide each card slot
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thanks for the replys! i think im going with an arbor press and a stamp for now until i decide to invest more money into this.
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thanks for the info guys. i want one to stamp a logo or a custom monogram for my customers onto my leather products. most of the kingsleys on ebay are vintage and I dont want to risk buy something that wont work or requires repair. is there anything out there you guys recommend?
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Hi, im in the market for a hot foil stamping machine and this one fits the budget but i dont want to invest in something that doesn't work right or will break down after few uses. check it out here on ebay:
Thanks in advance for your responses! - Sam
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good find thanks!
Cambell And Randall Edge Paint
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
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does anyone have any experience with cambell and randells plus or regular edge paint?? pictures showing the end result would be awesome! thanks in advance