I got the buckle from weaver, the outside is 9-10oz precut strap leather from zack white, the inside is an old piece of what I would guess to be 14-15 oz leather. I really don't know for sure because I've had it for years. Yes it's sewn smooth side out on both sides. I didn't want a liner because I wanted it to be as hard and stiff as possible. I even played around with the idea of adding a third layer. Disclaimer I did not sew it, I was having trouble getting threw the older piece of leather so I took it to a guy for stitching. I should have put that in the original post.