Ranwulf
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Everything posted by Ranwulf
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From the album: Flask Cover
Missing is the cap, which slides down over the sides of the case with a stitched "buttonhole" for the neck of the flask to pop through. The thing was snapped up before I could get a pic of it. The top edge of the cover was (later) whip stitched - the friction between that and the cap keeps the cap snug. -
From the album: Flask Cover
Tiny stitches. This is waxed sinew, I think - been a while since I made this. -
From the album: Flask Cover
Since the person this was made for was likely to keep it in a pocket, I decided to forego dying - no sense in risking dye transfer! -
From the album: Flask Cover
It's always fun stitching on a curve - the inner stitches get reeeeeally close together. -
Wood core construction - rough
Ranwulf commented on Ranwulf's gallery image in Gallery- Our Leatherwork
Thanks. It's really hard to say how long it took b/c it was a side project at work - on again, off again - over a period of several weeks. Probably about 12-15 hours, at a guess. The oak core was the most time consuming part - done with chisels b/c I work at an early 17th c. site where post-1622 tools are verboten! -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
This only needs a baldric, which is in progress. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Finished. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
The wax protects the leather from the elements (it'll be outside a lot) and gives the oiled, unstained surface a nice glow. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Looking down the throat. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Almost done. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
8-10 oz throat (I think). I applied neatsfoot oil with a wool dauber about 6 times, then applied beeswax. No dye used. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
The risers aren't as defined as I would want, but I'll improve on that next time. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
...and I'm glad there was: the shrinkage was probably less than 10%, which was still enough to make a tight fit around the wood core. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
The stitching wanted to veer off, and twisting/adjusting wet leather on dry wood is difficult. I stopped and began again from the bottom, and met in the middle. This controlled the veer, but it's still crooked. Oh, well. Also - the seem is hardly a nice, flat one, but then this scabbard is for a munitions-grade sword, very much NOT a gentleman's piece - rough and ready. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
6 oz. cased leather; saddle stitching the seam. The risers are just strips of 6 oz. leather Barge-cemented into place. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Ready to wrap in cased leather. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Backswords generally aren't symmetrical, so the chape end tapers up. -
Wood core construction - ready for sanding
Ranwulf posted a gallery image in Gallery- Our Leatherwork
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Sanding is the last step before stitching on the cased leather. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Cut to size. -
From the album: Early 17th c. backsword scabbard
Started by chiseling out sides of 2 oak splits - poplar would be more traditional, but oak is what I had.