IslandMoose

Up and running! Fitted a 550w servo motor, a new bobbin winder, and restored the original table. I cleaned and lubricated the machine, including the grease enclosures, then I timed it as per the service manual. It's giving me some really good stitches in heavy Sunbrella fabric.

Thank you, I will inspect the cam mechanism, it may be worn out as it does not bind against the plate regardless of how far the knob is screwed in.

My '62 Pfaff 145 H2 did not come with hinges. I'd like to get some and fit them to my table. Can someone please share what they feel is the correct part number for the assemblies? Indicative photo attached showing hinges required.

Good day I have a Pfaff 145 I'm 'restoring' and in addition to a timing issue that I can sort, there is a problem with the stitch length selector. The stitch selector sits at the bottom of the opening and cannot be made to stay in any other position. Rotating it has no effect. Can someone help?

Thanks all, I might just leave it alone once it's mechanically-restored.

1962 Pfaff 145 Bought it for next to nothing, I've cleaned it without full disassembly with Kerosene. I'm replacing a damaged part, and soon I will adjust it fully into perfect working condition. The paint is quite worn, and I am thinking about what would be involved in a full paint job with new decals. The prep and paint is straightforward, but I'm concerned about pulling it to pieces and relying on an exploded parts diagram to put it back together. Question to anyone who has fully disassembled this or a similar machine...what resources are out there that would assist me to tear down the machine to a bare chassis for re-finishing?

Ive ordered a replacement, it is not level with the stop tab on the bobbin case, it tries to go under it...explains why it contact the hook. Thank you.

Thank you, but when the needle plate is in and the notch is properly held steady, the hook still revolves around and the top of the hook assembly contacts the underside of the case lever arm (see photo of part I am referring to). It's as though the case lever isn't sitting flush on the lower casting, but it is.

Good day, I've picked up a Pfaff 145 for a song, its a 145-6/1B H2S. There are a couple of issues with it that I want to address, aside from fitting a servo motor and restoring the table. 1. The bobbin lever comes into contact with the top of the hook assembly, the lever rides over the edge of the hook assembly, but there is considerable contact between the two and the machine binds at that point. With the hook assembly removed the machine rotates effortlessly. I believe the lever is damaged, so I've got a replacement coming. In the photo note I've removed the needle plate, but the lever strikes the hook assembly when everything is in it's proper place. 2. The stitch length lever does not move upward when the knob is rotated. It is constantly set at the longest stitch length at the bottom of it's travel. The lever will go up into reverse, but I cannot select a stitch length.

Sorry, I don't even have the sensor. It was extra and I didn't want it. Here it is set at about 80 spm. Going through some 1/8" leather I use for wrapping oars at the oar locks.

Yes, I've yet to use the positioning sensor in fact. John

It's a Powermax, which I'm sure is a locally-branded Chinese motor, but is fantastic, 40 programmable settings, including custom mapping of the pedal response.

Sorted by moving the hook carrier about a mm away from the needle. This allowed the needle to just clear the hook body. I think the hook has seen a lot of miles, but I tested it this morning and it sews very well. The 21 needle has also solved the problem of the knot on the bottom. Very pleased, thank you. Btw. The servo motor, which is full programmable, is incredible, I have it slowed down to a crawl, and it gas incredible punching power. Now to get sewing.

I've spotted and corrected a problem, I now have the hook passing through the centre of the scarf on the way up, but the needle is still too close by about 1mm. I guess I'll have to get some penetrating fluid for those set screws on the gear. I can't move them, and none of my screwdrivers fit them very well.

I must have been reading your mind. Here's a photo of the needle-hook strike and the underside of the machine. What average gap should I aim for between needle and hook? Tight? You're not kidding....I might need my air gun.