Poor Glue Adhesion

[Poor Glue Adhesion]

5 hours ago, Mokerson said:

Les,

As Tom said a little sand paper will do the trick and if you are worried about the surface transferring through a thinner hide you can easily go up to a 180 or 220 and still get the same results, or add a thin (i.e. split) layer of Dacron before putting the leather down.  We did over a thousand chairs for a hotel many years ago.  The surface that we were upholstering had a thick poly finish on it.  We hit the whole thing with an even 220 grit scuff job and the adhesive locked on, no worries, no service calls - that was almost ten years ago.  We have since done the restaurants and bars throughout the hotel so plenty of opportunity to get complaints on failed adhesive.

 

 

 

Thanks all for your suggestions. We're going to try them out in some trials and see what works out the best.

[Poor Glue Adhesion]

Thanks Tom. Our leather workers have been reluctant to rough up the smooth surface very much for fear it will reflect through the thin leather covering. I think we'll have to rough it up a little more - it is better than bringing the product back and tearing the leather off.

[Poor Glue Adhesion]

We are having periodic trouble getting 3-4 ounce upholstery leather uniformly glued to a curved polyurethane surface. Ambient temperature is 65-67 degrees F.  Our leather/adhesives supplier says Masters All Purpose Cement is the best adhesive they have for this purpose. Does anybody know of a better adhesive for this kind of application ?

[Elk Hide Tanning]

Does anyone know who can cure and tan elk hides with the hair off?

[Removing Market Place Ad]

I can't find the command to remove my post advertising a used piece of machinery. Being a new member, there are a lot of things I can't navigate yet but this should be pretty basic. What am I missing (besides computer savvy)?

Thanks, LesWurse

[English Saddle Billets]

We are experiencing leather quality problems with the billets we put on our English saddles. After just a few runs through the roller buckles on their girths, our customers are complaining of cracks in the surface finish of their billets. They mistake these as weakness in or low quality of the leather.

Our observation is that while you could still tow a truck or horse with these billets, the customer remains concerned about quality and safety. Our supplier has produced billets for us from English bridle, shoe leather and latigo but the problem still persists.

Does anyone have advice on the best type of leather and tanning process to produce billets that retain a smooth surface finish? Naturally the longer the billets are used, the more wear they will show. We are trying to avoid the cracked appearance from showing up right away.

[Checking In]

We've been making English saddles for nearly twenty years and western saddles for almost ten years. Our website is www.ansursaddle.com.

It seems we have to learn everything the hard way (measure twice - cut once). We're finally getting smart enough to join this group and ask questions first. Our current concern is leather quality - we are getting increased customer concerns over the appearance of the billets on our English saddles. We will be visiting various Leatherworker forums to get some advice on types of leather and finishes for saddle billets.

[Camoga 411 Splitter]

We are asking $3500 for our used Camoga 411 splitter FOB Camas, WA. It is mechanically sound with all OEM parts. It will probably need a new top knife back guide. Machine pictures are available. The folks at Campbell Randall are quite familiar with this machine. You can ask for Dan Naegle at 361 293 7015.

Ansur Saddlery Northwest, LLC

800 987 1545

don@ansursaddle.com