Ok, so lets try and explain this the best way possible:
I am somewhat experienced with leather working and have made numerous knife sheaths, belts, holsters, etc which as you know requires some fairly thick leather (6-10 oz). I don't however, have any experience when it comes to the thinner (4-6oz) range. Here is where my questions comes in.....I am currently putting together patterns for small wallets, notepad holders, moleskin covers. This uses 4-5oz leather. The needles that I have along with the waxed nylon thread are way to big for such a thin leather. I don't want such a large hole and such thick thread (seems to alter the edge too much when punched or drilled). How can I find out what I see people always using on wallets (hand stitching that is) that looks like a really small needle and thread? By the way I use diamond punches just to get started and then I use my awl or a drill bit and that way I can make a custom size hole.
Example: Lets say I make a small leather notepad holder (3x5) and I am stitching the flap that holds the pad in place. With the leather being so thin and more fragile than 10oz, I think the thread looks way to big and bulky up against it.
Any suggestions? Needle size? thread size? where you find your stock? I have attached a pic of a pocket sheath that I sell and its really popular, this is an example of using thick (10oz) leather and how the stitching looks good with that size and thckness, however would way too big for half that on 4-5oz leather.
Thanks,
Luke