oldskoolbob

I got the frozen joints moving again. Liquid wrench and time did the trick. I pulled out the needle bar rock frame shaft and cleaned it up with copper wool and wadding cloth. The surfaces do not appear to be beyond hope. I read in the Navy 111W Service book that grinding compound on the shafts and bushings is the way to clean them up and marry them. I think the fun part will be timing all the shafts in the feed assembly. The same Navy book describes the procedure, though it is somewhat vague. Bob

Hey, I picked up a Juki 563-3. It has been stored for some time and the needle bar rock frame shaft has locked up. It appears that some light rust developed on the parts in the uprise of the head. I have everything soaking in large amounts of Liquid Wrench. I have read that a nice long kerosene bath can unlock an old rusted machine. Has anyone had any luck in saving a machine with a couple rusty moving parts? Thanks in advance. Bob

Thanks Bob & Gregg, That ad certainly has more info than I found elsewhere. 10mm stitch length. Sweet. The parts book shows the subclass 3 as having no reverse and eight special parts including the hook assembly. I thought the lack of reverse might have been to accommodate a larger feeding mechanism under the bed. Thanks again to both of you for giving your time. Robert

Hi, I found a deal on a Juki 563. From my reading it looks to be a subclass -3 I.E.: no reverse in lieu of extra long feed and thicker thread capacity. I have not found any details on how long the stitch length or thread capacity actually is. Does anyone have the skinny on these 563-3's? Thanks, Robert

Okay, I found the instruction book on the interweb. It seems to be a lighter duty version of the 111W line. It also looks like the stitch length is adjusted on the handwheel. Hence the missing button on the bed. I'm not sure about the max stitch length. I seem to recall the longer length on the 155 was a selling point. Anyone have any opinions on the 112? Thanks, Robert

Hi, I'm looking at a Singer 111W112 on sale locally. The seller sent me a picture of what looks like a very early machine with no second button for the safety clutch. I know and like the features of the 111W155. How does the 112 vary from 155? I have a dead parts 111W155, could I move some pieces over to the 112? Lastly, what do you think I should offer for a 111W112?, Any advice is welcome. Thanks, Bob

Thanks Constabulary I feel better knowing that bearing aseembly can be given a "push" The pictures are a big help. It appears to be a standard ball bearing set in there. It seems to make sense to replace it with the trouble it takes to get out. The bearing assembly looks to be 4 parts: 1 inner collar, 2 outer case, 3 bearing, 4 case cover. Is that right? Does that assembly come apart once it is out of the machine? I always assume the balls or races are dented with all that hammering going on.

That bearing assembly is very stuck. The two set screws on the collar are out. The screw in the back of the main body is out and everything is soaking in penetrating oil. I have lightly tapped it from the inside with a hammer and soft drift. I'm thinking it's time for a heat gun. Has any one ever had a bearing this stuck? The bearings are still smooth and I don't see any wobble to suggest a bent shaft. I also don't see any rust or heat discoloration that might suggest part seizure. I'm trying to be slow and careful. On other machinery, I have been able to use a gear puller. That top access hole doesn't give me much to work with. Anybody have an affordable 111W for sale? Thanks, Bob

@ Geneva, The cracks are out on the arm where the cutaways are in back. I only paid $20. I thought at the least I could learn a bit about tearing down and rebuilding a compound feed machine without any risk of investment. Worst case, I could strip it and have a decent box of spares and maybe a nice garden planter. @Cowboy Bob, The set screws are out of the collar. I then dripped penetrating oil into the bores in the collar. The handwheel had slipped and the set screws cut a nice groove on the shaft. I turned the wheel while holding the shaft. I basically polished the groove as the wheel turned along it. Do you drop into the screw bores and polish the shaft? Thanks for your help folks, Bob

Hi, My name is Bob I'm new to Leatherworker.net. I picked up a Singer 111W155 as is machine for a very parts machine price. It needs a timing belt and the previous owner could not get the handwheel off. I managed to remove it (not easy). Now the bearing assembly is just as stuck. I'm soaking everything in Liquid Wrench and waiting. While cleaning and oiling this machine. I noticed some hairline cracks in the upper arm. The arm is still quite rigid. Did these cracks happen in these old machines? Is this the end of the road for this machine? Any help or wisdom is welcome. Thanks, Bob

I had the same problem on an Adler 67. It was the safety clutch had tripped. On the those Adlers you hold the hook with your left hand. Then turn the hand wheel backwards with your right hand. You will feel and hear a "click" when the clutch resets. Make sure to do this with the motor off. And with a clutch motor, make sure it has come to a complete stop Hope this helps. Bob