jrbeasley

Thanks everyone. Uwe, I went through the maximum foot height adjustment again but it was already there. The foot I'm using is for edging, it has a spring and a small edge guide. It's relatively long front-to-back so the "heel" is pretty far back from the needle. It looks like this problem would be unavoidable with this design. For now I found a technique that seems to work. On the last stitch through 3 layers I stop needle-down, loosen the tension a full turn, run 3-4 stitches so the heel of the foot is clear of the 3 layers, then re-tighten tension a full turn and continue on. I want to get more practice to make sure it's consistent but it's worked for about 10 tests. And I have an extra edging foot that I will try to grind away the heel some and see if that helps. Finally I'm looking at other edge guides, though I really like how this one works otherwise. Thanks again!

Hi. I'm sewing straps to a panel and generally this works fine. But sometimes one strap passes over another so the total thickness being sewn is 3 layers and this creates problems. The feet step over the thickness fine, and it's within the limits of the machine, but the stitch quality is bad. The stitches are okay on the step up, but across the top of the 3 layers the stitches become tighter/closer together. And stepping back down to two layers the back of the outer foot appears to stay at the level of the highest layer for a few stitches while the inner foot seems to float in the air a little. While this is happening the stitches are very dodgy -- long stitches, loose stitches, leather lifts up, thread sometimes acts like it might break -- for 3-5 stitches until thing straighten out and stitches are great again. I can get an almost acceptable stitches on the top (3 layers thick) by slightly pulling the material through the machine. But I can't do anything about the problem stepping down. For now, I'm pulling the material slightly while sewing over the crossing strap, removing the thread from the needle to just punch holes while going back down to 2 layers, and reinserting the top thread to finish the run. Then I go back and manually repair the mess, but this takes a while and the results are inconsistent. Anyone aware of adjustments I can make or maybe a different technique? Thanks in advance!

Success! If anyone is curious, going back through all the adjustments did the trick. I hadn't done a very good job of adjusting the hook timing before, it was off a bit, also the feed dog was high. After those changes, I set top and bottom tension very light, started with T70 thread / 18 needle. After a few seams slowly increasing bottom tension got a nice stitch. I increased and decreased SPI a little beyond the range I plan to use. Then I went through the same exercise with T75/18, T90/20, and T100/20 adding only a little top tension when needed. All produced a nice stitch. At this point the top tension was near max. Then I tried T135/23 which maxed out top tension to get a good stitch. On a lark I tried T210 top, T135 bottom and it stitched pretty well through two and four layers, about 1/4 inch, though that's clearly maxing out this machine. Bottom line: Thanks to leatherworker.net, Constabulary for confirming the snag problem and previous posts, and also Eric, whose previous technical posts I followed closely, this Singer has gone from being stored for years in a barn to back in sewing shape in my living room -- I love this forum!

I figured out how the loop closes without snagging -- the bobbin case opener releases the loop's bottom. I made the adjustment and now it's sewing without snagging. The bad news is that did not improve the tension issue or quality of the stitch, pictured below. The picture is using T75 thread and 135X16 #20 needle. The material is 2 layers of auto upholstery leather, about 1/8 inch total. Top tension is near max and bottom is near min. I'm going through all the adjustments again, and appreciate guidance if anyone has ideas.

Thank you, I think you diagnosed the problem, but I'm not sure how to solve it. After looking at the hook gibs that have "deflectors" like in your photo, I see how this avoids the problem. But the parts manual shows two hook variations and mine is the one that is designed without a deflector. The two hook styles are: -240557 (has a flat hook gib, no deflector, this is what my machine has) -267356 (has the deflector on the hook gib similar to your picture) I was thinking of ordering the hook gib with the deflector, but noticed the two hooks are designed differently. Mine (240557) has an integral shaft but the 267356 has a hub with setscrews. So I think the parts may not be interchangeable. I am also wondering how the flat hook gib like mine was ever supposed to keep the thread from binding in that area. It must have worked at some point, but I can't imagine how.

This is my first post, so first thanks to all who've posted such great information in the past! A few weeks ago I risked $125 on this machine that's suffered some abuse and neglect -- it's a barn rescue. Following some great information here I've almost got it right! I've cleaned, lubricated, corrected top/bottom shaft timing, corrected needle bar height, and replaced several parts. Now it sews, but a pesky issue remains I hope someone can help with. When it was first able to sew, it left big loops on the bottom of the stitch. I've resolved a few issues and now it usually sews a decent stitch, but it seems to require too much top tension and the bottom stitch is inconsistent -- roughly one stitch in five doesn't completely pull up the bobbin thread and you see a bit of the top thread. It happens regardless of thread/needle size or material sewn. Moving the pulley slowly and watching the stitching action, I've noticed a point where the top thread seems to snag near the bobbin just as the stitch is finishing and the loop is almost closed. It may be correct, but it looks suspicious to me. The photos below are at the point in forming a stitch when I think it's snagged. For visibility in the photos I'm using T135 thread top and bottom and 135X16 #23 needle (other combinations don't solve the problem). Needle plate is moved aside also for visibility. Anyone have an idea about what's going on? Thanks in advance!