tnestes

Some individuals can learn more in one day with a guy like Steve than others can in a few months. Educated viewpoint- it's quality, not quantity that counts. As any thinking person would know, it's based on what you've done up to that point that dictates how much of the "finer points" can actually be learned, and the quality of it. I'm still applying what I learned from Mecum (a guy who I might add never speaks on such forums as this, maybe that states something?) - endless photos and endless notes, not from production videos. I had made many nice saddles before ever hooking up with Steve, so, yes, I DID learn a heckuva lot of finer points from him, and am still applying the lessons in my shop. I am not condescending, nor am contradicting what I state on my website. My goal is to make every saddle better than the last. Your statement about strainers being a shortcut is an opinion, your opinion. Reserve your judgment and show a little respect for others' ideas.

Been busy in the shop, and thus a while since I've been online. For your information, and insinuation, I learned the finer points of saddlemaking in Steve Mecum's shop, not a video. He uses strainers.

Yes, I tan-cote as a top finish, but I didn't know that was the problem. THANKS. Ted

I was recently caught in a rain shower while riding a saddle with a Fiebings antique finish. "SPOTS" from the rain droplets stained the seat while taking the saddle off. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I know now why some saddlers don't antique.

Exactly. If the seat is well done, it's well done...period.

The BEST? Well, TCAA members would be a good place to start. As far as I know, they all use strainers. "Insulting?" There's no need to be so easily offended. People who are confident people in what they are doing are not, (easily offended, that is). Furthermore, if you look for something to get irritated about, you'll find it quicker among saddlemakers than anywhere else, so I've found. I could have gotten offended when someone stated earlier that strainers are "short-cuts." I didn't, though. I guess it's because I know how to put it a very comfortable ground seat using a strainer. I have room for improvement, and I admit it. However, I WILL continue to use strainers. And yes, DALE HARWOOD IS, IN MY OPINION, THE BEST SADDLEMAKER EXTENT. Regards, Ted

DALE HARWOOD uses seat tins. Would Dale take a "short-cut?????" The BEST makers use seat tins/strainers.

"Regionally" may be the key word you used. I've made some saddles that went to Texas, and these particular guys wouldn't have a wade. And then there are others who act as if they didn't know there was anything but a wade saddle. Saddles are like lots of other things, meaning styles change from time to time concerning what's in vogue. Apparently, the swellfork is on the comeback trail overall. In addition, I've always wondered why someone buys a wade, then uses bucking rolls on it all the time? I appreciate the discussion! And you make some VERY crisp, clean looking saddles, too, friend!

You've made a great point. I know so many people who drive those 50K+ vehicles, have horses worth several thousand, and yet want to "poor mouth" about the price of a custom saddle?????

Recently, I was told that wade saddles (custom, of course) tend to hold their resale values better than a swellfork. However, another maker, probably in the "top three" catagory, informed me that he was making about as many swellforks these days as wades. All things being equal ( i.e.- same tree, leather, level of expertise), might this be the case? Any thoughts on the subject?

I fully agree, Rod. Your ideas make the most sense of all!

Weaver in Ohio now offers a woolskin that's white, rather than golden. It's still bark-tanned, of course. Many of the good old saddles I've owned by such reputable makers as Hamley, Wofford, N. Porter, etc. had been lined with this white variety of woolskin. I just lined my last saddle with it, and really liked it. It's a little different in appearance from the contemporary standpoint, but, still a nice think pile. I've got yet another black wade to complete, and the lady actually wanted this white woolskin as opposed to the golden. Who knows, it may catch on.

Cool off. Nobody's yelling at anybody here. I just wish we'd all stay on topic, which is why I did what I did. The brunt of what I was getting at went off on a highly unintended tangent. Anyway, back to my intended subject. One of the prettiest "post horn" saddles I've ever seen was done by Paul Van Dyke, and he used the method I want to learn more about how to do- covering the horn with wings, not a wrap. Heck, the horn on this saddle was not even round, it was a guadalajara horn. This was different than the "norm," sure, but not wrong. Of course, you can use this method with wings, and still use a "temporary" mullhide wrap for roping/dallies, and wing protection, right? I've always admired the saddles from the 40s, 50s, and 60s when makers often used the big Mexican horns with hardly ever using a wrap. Over history, from what I've studied, saddles are like clothes- styles change, leave, come back in style, etc. Again, I appreciate your help very much.

Allow me to explain myself here, please. I did not mean to offend ANYBODY about the full stitch method for covering wood post horns. I got to thinking about this after reading an article by Dick Sherer where he stated something to the effect that he'd feel a little cheated if he removed the mullhide wraps from many 4K saddles today and saw some of the tree. THIS IS NOT THE POINT OF MY TOPIC ANYWAY. THE POINT IS TIPS FOR COVERING HORNS THE TRADITIONAL WAY. THANKS.

I said (quote) "please don't take me wrong." I'm not sure how much nicer I can be. I also said I do it as well. My sincerest apologies for appearing "abrasive." THAT WAS NOT MY INTENT AT ALL. The only thing I'm trying to do is get some help and ideas. I certainly appreciate your sketch, too.