jjs111w

THANKS to all

Wizcrafts Can you be a bit more specific on the Pfaff system 190 needles. What would be the exact notation and perhaps where to buy them for me to look for. I believe the needle that is in the machine now has a 120 stamped on it. I use the machine to sew automobile seat covers, so light to medium vinyl and leather with foam backings. Thanks

I suspect now that in the past someone did raise the needle bar on our machine. I would love to lower the bar as suggested but I have no idea how to do it. Worried about screwing up a machine that is working very well. Sorry but I am very much a novice hobbyist. For example as "gottaknow" recommends to "to rotate the hook point into the scarf..." Not even sure what the scarf is? Thanks,

I rarely use our antique (circa mid 1940's) singer 111W113 walking foot machine. Am down to 2 needles. Manual says it uses 135x17 needles. We ordered some 135x17 and they are too short by 3/16". We have to this point never purchased needles as been using up the supply that came with the machine purchase a few years ago. I've been all over the internet trying to find info on the size of the needles we need which are 1-15/16" total length. Just can't find any info relating the length of the needles. Even our local sewing machine store cannot help me. Look at the photo to see our issue. I've already wasted money ordering the 135x17 stock. So can someone point me to a supplier that will have the correct size for our machine as well as an explanation of the various needle sizes used in an industrial machine. Thanks

To answer Constabulary concerning the ability to flip the machine back, The intermediate shaft is in exactly the same location (angle) to the machine pulley so flipping is the same, tightening the belt as the machine is set back in place. I do have to be careful when flipping machine back to normal with regard to the foot lifting mechanism. The rod that comes down from the machine sits inside a cup by about 1/4". So when flipping back I have to make sure it enters the cup as there is some play in the rod. I suppose we could make a cup with a funnel entry to guide the rod in but for now it works. Thanks jjs111w

I looked at slower rpm motors and even DC motors but in the end my cost to do the project was less than a quarter of the motor swaps. It was a bit of work but I do have the option of going back to original layout. With this configuration swapping pulley sizes to get different speeds will be easy to do should we want to. And it was fun to design and make. As for the foot presser bar foot lift it seems strong enough, even though it may look like $&^$^&^. Thanks for looking jjs111w

Have newly purchased old Singer 111w113 which has the original 3500 rpm motor that works great but way too fast for me. I am a novice just starting to do sewing work as I want to do a car interior in leather. I have done several car interiors using vinyl on an old White household machine but needed to get a good walking foot at a decent price, hence the 111w113 I found locally. I viewed several old posts about slowing these machines down and ended drawing from what others have done with speed reduction. Using mostly scrap I had, angle iron, garage door opener bracing, a 5/8" shaft, some old pulleys, etc, I fabricated my not so good looking unit. The only items purchased was the 12" pulley and two 4-bolt pillow block bearing both from eBay. While we just got it working it does make a world of difference, really slows it down and I seem to have better control with the clutch now. We start sewing with it in a few weeks, so time will tell how well it work in real life projects. Also if you notice in a couple of photos we added a home made foot operated presser foot lifter. The mechanism was on the machine but any actuation was not with the machine when purchased. Thanks jjs111w

I got the stitch length working so thanks to all. Turns out I was missing screw A, screw B was the wrong one (not long enough). Got the right parts, unlocked the eccentric and seems to be working. Only issue is the threads on the hand wheel are gone so I am using a hose clamp around the adjustment knob to lock it to the pulley wheel.. Thanks to all for the help. jjs111w See my separate post for the home made speed reducer.

mk1madnesdNow that I know how to manually lock the thread lenght if I cannot get the adjustment mechanism to work, I can set it back to around 6. Right now the machine is all apart trying to install a home made speed reducer as this motor is 3500 rpm and way to fast. I have no prior experience with and industrial machine so practice and slowing down is in the cards. We will let all of you know how we make out. Thanks jjs111w

The mystery is slowing being solved it appears. As I indicated I do have it locked again and it is giving me about 12/inch. All I was getting initially was 6. Not having done any leather auto seat upholstery I am now wondering what might be the optimum stitch lenght. The next project will not have any threads appearing for decorative reasons. Any comments? But I will still try to get the adjustment to work, other wise I will just lock it at the optimum value and sew on. Thanks to all jjs111w

pcox, I will try your procedure again, firs time I did by turning screw B in with L turned all the way in, nothing happened, nothing moved. I will try again. As for the threads on the pulley, they are gone just like the photo J Hayes posted. I just pull the rod L in and out. If I can actually get the stitch length to adjust, I plan to use a hose clamp around the knob L and the pulley which will prevent it from moving while sewing and keeping the adjustment in check. I will post tomorrow if we have any success. Why would someone have locked the ability to change the stitch. Maybe because the threads are gone and just gave up. jjs111w

Removed the lock washer and the screw C is a shoulder bolt. By doing so the spring pushed the slotted area all the other way to the other end of the slot from where it was. I noticed there are fine graduations on the eccentric and a "0" is stamped at one end. There is also a "0" stamped on the mating piece. They were line up before I loosened the screw. Tried to sew that way and there was no movement at all, Zero threads per inch. Played with the adjusting screw and nothing. Will not move or stitch. Re-installed the screw with lock washer, this time half way between where it was to begin with and where it was relaxed (zero stitches). Now am getting 12 stitches per inch. The adjusting knob still does nothing. So I can live with that for now, but there is still something wrong or that I still do not understand what is going on. Anyone else care to weigh in? Thanks jjs111w

Thanks again CowboyBob. I will try to loosen screw C and remove the washer and see what happens. Problem is there is no room to get the blade of the screwdriver on to thead. I will have to find a right angle screwdriver or bend one of mine. I post the results. Thanks jjs111w

CowboyBob Thanks for the great cutaway. I never saw this view before which does make it clearer as to what is suppose to happen. Yes the threads on the pulley are broken but I can lock the adjusting bar (L) in your cutaway by means of a hose clamp so it does not move once set. I think I understand now what is to happen, but if it is suppose to pivot around screw D, then screw D should not be tight? Looks like mine is tight. Is screw D suppose to be a shoulder bolt? Also the screw opposite it (screw C) also should be not tight (also a shoulder bolt?). Looks like mine is tight and there is a lock washer between screw C and eccentric housing. Did someone LOCK the adjustment function by doing to stop any thread adjustment? The other thing I notice is your drawing differs from what is in my user manual which I included in my post. Your drawing shows a different configuration than mine. Look at the photo I included of my machine. The screws C and D are facing the thread adjuster knob, where as they are opposite on yours. Different machines? Looks like the attachments that I reference are with the duplicate post. Do not know why they did not show up here? Am I really off base in trying to diagnose this? Help again? By the way, the page you showed with the cutaway, where did you find that? I have looked allover the Web for a service manual for this machine (111w113). Could you share the info?

First post help! Just bought a Singer 111w113 for sewing leather auto seats covers. It works fine but no matter what stitch length setting we make on the knob at the pulley we get approx 6/in. I have read prior posts about how the eccentric is suppose to work, have studied the "x-ray" view in the manual but still cannot visualize what is suppose to happen that changes the stitch length. We have followed the procedure in the manual for setting the minimum (6) length, but when we back off the said knob say to 20/in, we still get 6. Machine was supposedly serviced prior to purchase. So what actually changes when you back off the setting from the 6 minimum. I see the conical tip of the adjusting rod spindle would back away from the "feed driving eccentric regulating screw" part number 200429, but what moves? What does the spring opposite the regulating screw suppose to do? Looking at the photo should be see a change? What am I missing? Thanks jjs111w 111w old style stitch length info.bmp