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Kohlrausch

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Posts posted by Kohlrausch

  2. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, SilverForgeStudio said:

    First off thanks for reading- I apologize for taking up all the bandwidth with my questions-!  My original deal on the 20U and 29K patcher fell through- bummer deal!  I really was hoping to be posting pictures of some first stitches in my own space on this rainy Saturday night! 

    But now I am looking again- and have 2 potentials for pickup next week:

    1. BROTHER LS2-F52A- its old, looks worn- but the price is right... Has a K-table, Clutch motor, reverse
    2. SINGER 211-G165- This unit is lightly used- has been sitting for 3 years- current owner bought it from dealer local to me. Clutch motor, It has H-style table, Thread stand and light- NO REVERSE

     

    Hi, the Brother seems to miss the slider left of the stitching plate.

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  3. Posted · Edited by Kohlrausch
    e     · Report reply

    Hi,

     

    the 230 uses householdmachine needles only, which may pose a restriction or two. There have been no variants for roundshank needles. Wheather it will cope with waxed duck canvas will depend on how many layers of what thickness of how tightly woven canvas with how sticky waxing you try to sew with what needle point and what kind of thread driven by what exactly kind of motor. Also there have been different needle plates with different sizes of needle holes and different feed dogs. Teflon presser feet might help a bit.

    The machines have been designed with profesional seamstresses in mind working from home on bedsheets, table cloths and normal clothing. With the standard motor KU52 they do 1500 stitches/min at 40 Watts output resulting in 0,25 Nm torque. That is only half the power of a cheap China made entry level sewing machine from a discount store with 35 watts/650 stitches and 1/6 of the power of a Sailrite. And the 110-volts-KU52 have even been a bit weaker than the 220 volt ones, but in the US the Pfaff 230 often has been sold with other motors. If it is used in a table you can fit the machine with a servo motor, bit if you are setting up a fixed table i would probaby look at a proper tailor's machine in the first place.

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    14 hours ago, Matt S said:

    I've got a few different servo motors

    The Ho Hsing G60 servo has been recommended by several posters on here as having good low-speed performance. At £200ish including tax and shipping it's nearly double what the cheapest servos cost and the synchoniser is extra so I'm a little hesitant about pressing the trigger until I'm fairly convinced it's the right option.

    How bout this?

    https://www.kornetshop.com/deutsch/elektromotoren/servo-motor-jm822-650w/#cc-m-product-7750616786

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Maybe I have overlooked it, but upstate where? Could help to recommend local brands. 

    A (used) Pfaff 138 B with  standard-, teflon- and roller presser foot and a (new) slow running servomotor with 40 mm pulley might be a good start. Total cost would be about 220 Euros over here. Pfaff 335-clones (made by Shanggong)  with stand and slow running servo motor can be had for 880 Euros in Germany plus 70 Euros shipping (incl. sales tax).

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

    that's a highspeed garment sewing machine designed to do 4500 stitches/minute. The "A" in Pfaff-designations refers to light capacity, lightweight materials, the "S" refers to Stoff, german for fabric. Think of curtains, shirts, bedsheets. I assume, posterity will be able to find out, because, as you write, they do show up in searches. 
    Cost varies, 138s go for 40 to 70 Euros in Germany. They can handle shoe uppers as in ladies' boots, not workboots or walking boots. Much of the practical usability will depend on the motor and the presser feet.

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    On 5.6.2018 at 11:50 AM, Wonderboy said:

    Thanks Matt. Appreciate your comments and what you say about the motor makes sense. I’ll get in contact with a local shop. What you say though about online stores also holds true for brick and mortar too. We got burnt big time on our first machine so will not be going anywhere near them again. I may be being overly optimistic at this stage but it would be great if this machine performs as well as the people in the above YouTube videos say it does. I know what you’re saying about presser foot pressure/feed dogs too. While the bobbin isn’t anywhere near the size of our 4500 it is a class15 so not the end of the world. Fingers crossed...

    *updated*

    I’ve just found this motor online which is 240v and 1A meaning it would be more powerful than the above 110v/1.5A US motor? It’s listed as being compatible so I may buy it...?

    http://www.yaya-online.com/-e-n-/shpSR.php?A=26&p1=491&p2=317

    Hi,

    first of all I would advise against buying from Yaya-online. They also list anal- and penis plugs, mouth gags, vagina speculas, surgical instruments, diet food which in my opinion does not exactly make them sewing machine specialists.

    2: The motor you have found is also offered for the Pfaff 130, but the mounting bracket is too short for the 130 and it is also offered for the Pfaff 260, which does not even have the necessary motor mounting block.

    3: The motor is advertised as CE conforming, but does not seem to have any sticker or other sign of CE, which in my opinion would make it illegal to sell in the EU. All goods sold in the EU must conform with EU regulations, which is declared by the manufacturer (and checked by nobody) in a declaration of conformity and the specific CE sticker or mould.

    4: Yaya's return policy only allows you to return the motor if it has not been installed and tested. So if you don't like the black, you can return it. If you find it too week or too fast, it will be your problem.

    5: Yaya does not care for technical data. They will pass on whatever the mfgr printed on whatever, and if that doesn't make any sense or is physically impossible they neither check nor care nor correct mistakes.

    6: The motor is quoted to do 8000 rpm with a 15mm pulley which would bring the Pfaff 30 to 2000 stitches per minute which is too fast for the oscillating hook machine. You want to stay at or below 1500 spm.

    7: They don't say how many steps there are in the footpedal. The worst I have seen was three steps (off, minimum, full throttle).

    8: They don't give the minimum working speed of the motor.

    9: Doesn't matter, the motor is sold out anyway. Yaya is notorius for advertising goods they don't have.

     

    The amperage is the fuse rating of the motor and usually has a small safetymargin, so the given amps will be higher than the actual power consumption. 240 Volts and 0,38 amps would be 91,4 Watt power consumption, take off the safety margin and we are looking at an 80 Watts motor. This kind of motor has power factors between 0,35 and 0,55, with the 0,35 motor being a single outlier. The typical range is 0,45 to 0,55. The average, when I compared motor data that I have found on photos and spec sheets was exactly 0.5.

     

    Really, that Wernard motor is as good as it gets, you will not gain any usability by buying another little piggipack motor.

     

    The Pfaff 30 is very similar to the Singer 15. You can read everything Wizcrafts has written about the Singer 15 in this forum and directly apply it to your machine.

     

    HTH

    Greets

    Ralf C.

     

  11. Posted · Report reply

    On 26.1.2016 at 2:57 PM, Kohlrausch said:

    Hi,

    here http://www.occaphot-ch.com/bernina-startseite/industrie-masch/ you can find a downloadable scan of the German sewingmachine mechanics book "Der Nähmaschinenfachmann". Vol 2 (Band 2) describes the old Pfaff 335, starting at page 108. It's German, but at least there is a drawing of the stitchlength mechanism.

    HTH

    Greets

    Ralf C.

    Hi,

    Eddy occasionally reorganizes his homepage. Der Nähmaschinenfachmann now can be found at https://www.occaphot-ch.com/bernina-original-service-manuals/

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    23 hours ago, Dave84 said:

    Uwe, thank you very much, your video helps a ton.  What do you know of the differences between the Pfaff 138 and 130?  I have a 130 closer in distance to me, but do want the industrial strength zig zag.  Based on your demo, I would be quite happy with the 138 after testing several runs of only leather, with it not being a walking foot that's the last test.  

    Hi,

    the Pfaff 130 was designed as a commercial machine alright, but for womens' tailoring and linnen stitching. Think silk blouses and bedsheets. The 138 has been designed for mens' tailoring and industrial garment production. The 138 has am much stronger presser-foot spring. Weak spot in the 130 is the needle bar clamp which lacks clamping power if the 130 is used for heavy work.

    There have been several variants of the 138. I recommend the old black ones with needle system 134. There have also been some with more exotic needle systems and household needles. The 138 works well with a roller foot.

    The Pfaff 34, 38, 134, 138, 238 etc. use a Pfaff-specific high shank foot. There will be few aftermarked feet. Pfaff also made an adapter, part number 6603 which converts the high shank machines to standard low shank.

    If you want to go really exotic you can look for a Pfaff 38 C/D with 6 mm zigzag and double roller foot.Never seen one even on the internet, but I have the manual ;-)

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

    Once again, excellent post UWE.  

    Trick question; what sewing mechanism would prevent the hook timing being split, or, in other words, prevent the needle from coming in high on one side and low on the other side?  The answer is a bit more common on house hold type machines, but once in a while it's on an industrial.

     

     

    Hi,

     

    lateral shuttle movement would do the trick. Mitgehender Greifer in Krautspeak. The Solent Ocean XL sailmaking machine would be an example of the technology.

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  14. Posted · Edited by Kohlrausch · Report reply

    On 14.11.2017 at 8:57 AM, alexitbe said:

    Hi Ralf,

     

    Thanks for the reply.  I got a response from the seller and it seems like the whole range JM700-900 has a lowest startup speed of 300 rpm.  This is a surpise since sewtex are advertising the JM700 as starting at 100 rpm..

     

    I am now considering the Ho-sing g60 and I like the simplicity of the sew-pro 550gl.  However, i am not sure we can get it this side of the pond

     

     

    Hi,

     

    this appears to be the motor Sailrite is demonstrating here against their MC-SCR-system. They stopped the sewpro - set to slow sewing - with one finger.

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, alexitbe said:

    Now I need a motor for my glove sewing machines (will post a picture shortly) and for this I need to go really slowly for going around the fingers.  Since Torque is not so important I was thinking of making one and controlling it with an Arduino... But I am a little lazy to do so...

    Hi Alex,

    talk to Frank Brunnet. http://www.frank-brunnet.com/ He is the Cowboy Bob of our side of the pond. I will probably get one of those  http://www.ebay.de/itm/leiser-230-V-Motor-800-W-passend-für-Industrienähmaschine/322847634323?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649  in the next couple of days.

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

    Funny thing - I found a 1 Pfennig coin from 1950 inside the machine. It washed out when I cleaned the inside with paint thinner. And thats was not the 1st time I had this before. Maybe some sort of "cobblers rite". For those who don´t know the 1 Pfennig coin was considered as a "lucky coin" - so maybe this machine had luck that it found me or I had luck that I found the machine :lol:. I will put it in the drawer when I´m done...

    Way cool. And you truely are lucky with the Pfennig. I only found 50 nails when I cleaned a Singer 7.

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    On 9.11.2017 at 9:00 PM, alexitbe said:

    Does anyone have any experience of these?

     

    In particular, the  one piece JM 900 series.

     

    http://www.chinalsjm.com/en/products.php?catg_code=product-1

     

    I like the sound of it because it starts from  0 rpm, unlike my Jack servo motor which startrs at 200 rpm.  This would not need a pulley system to slow it down.

    Its avilable here in Europe, but I can find nothing on it.

     

    Cheers

    Alex

    Hi.

    Mfgr claims a torque of 4 Nm out of 500 Watt at 4500 rpm. If I do the math this gets me 1 Nm.

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, Rhons said:

     

    2) Any idea of the $ value?

    4) Replacement parts: 

     

     

     

    Hi,

     

    looks like some threadguides are missing. I'ld need a closer look to see if the thread tension is complete, and I don't see the spring for the presser foot. After the looks of the thumpscrew on top of the machine I'ld be expecting a flat spring. If that is a family machine I think it should be given to you for free. If it was up for purchase I think I would pass.

    To give a comparision: I paid 250 Euros for a Pfaff 145 with stand an clutch motor that was advertised on Ebay Kleinanzeigen (German equivalent of Craigs list). Asking price was 350 Euros. I offered 250 over the phone and hasslefree pickup. Machine came with a generous box of accessories, manual, thread, was testsewn on pickup and was complete and fully operational.

    An Adler 5 (similar to Singer 45) with treadle base was 120 Euros, a Singer 7 with treadle base was 60 Euros and a Pfaff 345 with stand and Efka servo motor was 200 Euros incl. gas and professional refurishment.

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, laurend said:

     

    - Deep scratches have appeared on my aluminum bobbins, looking as if they have been marred by a needle. This might be more recent.

    Hi,

     

    I'ld check and experiment with the needle-hook-distance. Maybe the needlebar needs to be turned a little, thereby changing the needleposition like an excenter. Then adjust the hook accordingly. Also check if the needlehole in the stitching plate has any scratches and matches the needle size. According to Schmetz literature the needle hole should be almost twice the diameter of the needle. Thoroughly check every single threadguide for scratches with a strong loupe (10x and up). Do it yourself, don't rely on a mechanic. If it is an older machine threadguides may have been sawn down by decades of sewing, thereby leaving sharp canyons. Especially so if the previous owner has done a lot of sewing with thinner thread than your are using now.

    Dürkopp Adler is still available in Bielefeld:

    DÜRKOPP ADLER AG
    Potsdamer Straße 190
    33719 Bielefeld
    Telefon: 0049521 / 925 - 00
    Telefax: 0049521 / 925 - 2646
    https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/de

    Schmetz also has good experts

    Ferd. Schmetz GmbH
    Bicherouxstr. 53-59
    52134 Herzogenrath

    Telefon: +49 (0)24 06 / 85-0
    Telefax : +49 (0)24 06 / 85-222
    E-Mail: info@schmetz.com

    http://www.schmetz.com/de/

    I have not been happy seeking advice from Organ and Groz Beckert.

     

    HTH

    Greets

    Ralf C.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    53 minutes ago, northmount said:

    No calculations needed.  Nameplate says rated 3.1 Amps and 550 Watts.  That's 0.73 horse power.

    Tom

     

    Yuppp, that results in 1,6 NM rated torque. But nameplate also states max . torque 0.9 NM and max. current 20A @ 280 to 340 Volts. And that's a little bit more.

     

    Greets

    Ralf C.

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